Secret Saint

In a clandestine convergence of fashion and art, the enigmatic aura of Saint Laurent's secret show finally materialised on Tuesday evening. Against the backdrop of Paris Fashion Week A/W 2024's crescendo, Anthony Vaccarello unveiled his latest menswear opus within the architectural marvel of the Tadao Ando-designed rotunda, nestled within the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection. While the bustling British press embarked on their swift motorbike taxi journey toward the Eurostar station, enticed by Louis Vuitton's grand decadal celebration curated by Nicolas Ghesquière at The Louvre, a privileged coterie gravitated toward a different spectacle. Through a carefully orchestrated invitation, an exclusive cohort embarked on a brief sojourn, a mere five-minute jaunt, to the contemporary enclave. The venue, a testament to modernity and heritage, emerged from the ashes of a former corn store, its circular silhouette paying homage to its storied past as the city's bustling stock exchange, revitalised in 2021 for its new artistic purpose.

Ando's masterful touch within the spaces main chamber, nestled beneath the expansive original cast-iron dome, served as the dramatic canvas for Vaccarello's A/W 2023 menswear spectacle in January of the preceding year. The austere beauty of the Japanese architect's cylindrical concrete creation echoes the monumental precision inherent in Vaccarello's collections – often characterised by a distinctive recurring silhouette – while evoking the seamless dialogue between bygone eras and the contemporary ethos at the core of Saint Laurent. In the words of Ando himself, spoken during the gallery's inaugural ceremony, "It was about revitalising the historic monument: paying homage to the city's legacy etched within its walls, and introducing a new structure within. A composition fostering a dynamic conversation between tradition and innovation, fostering a space teeming with vitality as befits a sanctuary dedicated to contemporary art." This sentiment resonates deeply within the gallery, which now proudly houses the curated collection of François Pinault, the visionary founder behind the esteemed Kering group, of which Saint Laurent stands as a cherished jewel within the luxury conglomerate's crown.

For this latest spectacle, the models emerged from one of the rotunda's enchanting openings, adorned with delicate accents of calla lilies, anemones, and orchids, a reverential nod to the iconic shows of Yves Saint Laurent. Stepping onto the plush carpeted expanse, they embarked on a smooth-as-silk journey along the circular runway. The aesthetic was imbued with an air of nonchalant sophistication, featuring double-breasted silhouettes, generously wide-shouldered tailoring, and elegantly draped trench coats, all reminiscent of the suave office attire of the 1980s. Amidst this sartorial symphony, flashes of vibrant ties added a playful pop of colour, evoking a sense of nostalgia for an era of corporate chic. However, amidst this homage to decades past, Vaccarello unveiled unexpected twists, with high-necked silk tops and oversized rubber jackets and hats serving as captivating diversions from the expected. Unlike his recent menswear ventures, which embraced elements of glamour and romance through intricate pussybow fastenings and fluid, draped silhouettes, this collection exuded a different allure. The loose, relaxed tailoring echoed the liberated spirit of Giorgio Armani's groundbreaking menswear creations of the 1980s, epitomised by the iconic costumes worn by Richard Gere in "American Gigolo."

As Vaccarello described, the initial formality of the opening ensembles gradually gave way to a sense of fluidity and ease as the show unfolded—a deliberate evolution that created an illusion of fabric transcending its solidity and melting into liquid elegance. Thus, amidst the grandeur of the setting and the sophistication of the designs, a new narrative of sensuality emerged, capturing the essence of a modern dandy traversing through time and style. Continuing Saint Laurent's illustrious journey through the realms of art and architecture, Vaccarello's latest showcase follows the trailblazing footsteps of the S/S 2024 menswear extravaganza. Set against the backdrop of Berlin's iconic Neue Nationalgalerie, a masterpiece of modernist design crafted by the legendary Ludwig Mies van der Rohe in one of his crowning achievements, the stage was set for an unparalleled fusion of fashion and architectural brilliance. Vaccarello's penchant for traversing diverse landscapes with his menswear presentations is no secret. From the windswept dunes of the Moroccan desert to the sun-kissed shores of Malibu, California, each locale serves as a canvas for his visionary storytelling. This peripatetic approach, alternating between the grandeur of Paris and the allure of far-flung destinations, imbues each collection with a sense of wanderlust and adventure, inviting the audience on a journey beyond the confines of tradition and expectation.