Copenhagen Fashion Week Standout Designers

Copenhagen has been responsible for a wave of fashion exports over the past decade, from Ganni to Cecilie Bahnsen, who have helped refine our perception of Scandi style. No longer just about polished minimalism, we’ve seen the rise of puff-sleeved dresses and dopamine dressing on the streets of the Danish capital in recent years.

A testament to the depth of design talent in the Nordics, we’ve witnessed another vibe shift in the city of late. There has been renewed focus on supporting rising stars like streetwear brand (Di)vision, knitwear specialist A Roege Hove and self-taught designer Nicklas Skovgaard. Meanwhile, sustainability has become increasingly important, after Copenhagen Fashion Week implemented its 18 minimum standards that all brands must adhere to in January 2023.

With major brands like Ganni opting not to show this season (instead hosting a “Future, Talent, Fabrics” exhibition), there’s even more space for new talent to shine. Below, see the buzzy names to watch out for at Copenhagen Fashion Week’s autumn/winter 2024 edition.

Nicklas Skovgaard

Nicklas Skovgaard’s theatrical spring/summer 2024 debut was undoubtedly a major highlight last season, so all eyes will be on his sophomore show, which opens Copenhagen Fashion Week on Monday. The Danish designer’s pieces, which are made from a mixture of handwoven and found materials, have already made their way onto the red carpet thanks to Alexa Chung, who wore a custom feathered crop top, micro shorts and matching bonnet at Vogue World: London back in September.

Mfpen

Best known for its menswear, cult label Mfpen – which has taken a utilitarian approach to Scandi minimalism since it launched in 2015 – introduced womenswear for the first time last year. As the brand returns to the Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule this season, be prepared to add its slouchy tailoring and perfectly cut knitwear, consciously made using surplus materials, to your autumn/winter wishlists.

Alectra Rothschild

A new addition to Copenhagen Fashion Week’s NewTalent programme, Alectra Rothschild – who cut her teeth at the likes of Mugler, Iris van Herpen and Alexander McQueen and already counts Michèle Lamy among her fans – is set to disrupt the schedule with her debut runway show. Expect a spectacle: the Royal Danish Academy graduate’s flamboyant, clubwear-inspired creations, upcycled from deadstock, are designed to be worn out-out.

Paolina Russo

After hosting their debut show in Copenhagen in August, London-based duo Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard – who won Zalando’s Visionary Award and were LVMH Prize and Woolmark Prize finalists in 2023 – are back again this season. This time around, they’ll be showing their collection during a nighttime presentation, featuring a performance from rising Danish artist Esben Weile Kjæer that will no doubt complement the brand’s rave-infused designs.

Forza Collective

Having worked at the likes of Dior, Raf Simons, Lanvin and Balmain, it’s perhaps no surprise that Kristofer Kongshaug’s own label Forza Collective, founded in 2022, has quickly become a hit among the Scandi set. A 2023 Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize finalist, look out for the designer’s minimalist eveningwear with a twist, crafted from recycled nylon, on the runway.

Solitude Studios

While not officially on the Copenhagen Fashion Week line-up, keep an eye out for Solitude Studios’s off-schedule show. Founded in 2018 by Jonas Sayed Gammal Bruun and Emil Wæde Frederiksen, the brand uses leftover textiles and natural dyes to create its earth-friendly designs, from cobweb knits to its signature “seaweed” bag.