Chanel Métiers D’Art Manchester 2023-24

Chanel's venture into the urban streets of Manchester, a post-industrial metropolis standing proud 160 miles north of London, sparked a delightful stir. Virginie Viard, the visionary at the helm, unfurled the tapestry of her personal narrative, unveiling the intricacies that drew her to champion the audaciously layered working-class culture of this English town.

In a lyrical revelation, Viard intertwined her familial roots with the rich history of the French luxury house. "I like small towns," she proclaimed, distancing herself from the overwhelming grandeur of London, deeming it too reminiscent of Paris. With a nod to her grandfather and grand-uncle's football management legacy in Lyons, her provincial hometown, and their involvement in fabric production, she wove an intricate connection between her origins and Chanel's haute couture heritage.

The enchanting allure of Manchester, however, transcends familial ties. Viard, delving into the city's vibrant past, drew parallels to Coco Chanel's affinity for English-made tweeds during her liaison with the Duke of Westminster, spent amidst the picturesque Eaton Hall estate near Manchester. Viard's own generational love affair with the gritty arts scene and the music of bands like Joy Division further solidified her connection to this Northern rival to London.

The immersion into Northern culture began with a unique Chanel invitation to a Manchester United vs. Chelsea football match—an emblematic North-South showdown. Guests were adorned with personalized No. 5 (a nod to Chanel No. 5) Man U red football jerseys, fostering a spirited atmosphere that culminated in a victorious Man U with a score of 2-1.

"In the rain-soaked streets of Manchester, Chanel's Métiers d’Art show unfolds, a poetic dance between the timeless elegance of haute couture and the rebellious spirit of a city that champions style even in the face of adversity. Virginie Viard's designs pay homage to familial roots, football legacies, and the vibrant pop culture of the North, creating a tapestry where Chanel meets the proud resilience of Manchester." - Charles Daniel McDonald

As Manchester's renowned rain made a timely appearance, the Métiers d’Art show unfolded against a backdrop of L.S. Lowry's paintings, capturing the resilience of mill workers facing the elements. International guests, armed with umbrellas, occupied pub-style outdoor seats along the charming Thomas Street, Chanel-ified for the night.

Viard's interpretation of the Northern girl exuded a playful homage to working-class pop culture from the '60s to the '80s, featuring side-flicked fringes and defiantly bare legs, a characteristic trait of Manchester's resilient inhabitants. Channeling her penchant for infusing Chanel with a sense of reality and youthfulness, Viard showcased variations of tweed suits, knee-length A-line minis, cycle shorts under coats, Beatle caps, and chain belts. The New Wave club girls took center stage, adorned in black patent leather or baby-doll dresses with double-C safety-pin or vinyl-record jet embroidery.

Métiers d’Art, a tradition initiated by Karl Lagerfeld, spotlighted the craftsmanship of Chanel-owned couture supply houses—Lesage for embroidery, Goossens for jewelry, Le Marie for feather work, and Barrie for Scottish cashmere knits. Viard's playful touch extended to souvenir slogan-sweaters, beanies, and scarves inspired by football terraces and club flyer graphics.

While undeniably Chanel and inherently Parisian, Viard paid homage to the smartness standards of Manchester women. Even in times of financial constraint, the city's women, including factory workers, have consistently embraced the ethos of dressing impeccably to venture out. In myriad ways, the show showcased a profound and proud ode to the city of Manchester.