As part of the shift in strategy, Genius – which began as a high-volume series of designer collaborations with the likes of Japan’s Hyke, among others — is reaching outside of fashion. The new Genius list includes three partners based in the music industry – Roc Nation by Jay-Z, Alicia Keys and Pharrell Williams – as well as the Stuttgart-based automotive titan Mercedes-Benz. The inclusion of Jay-Z – who sold his brand Rocawear in 2007 and is known to own at least two Mercedes-Benz vehicles – is the headline coup. Williams was one of Moncler’s earliest collaborators and Keys previously helmed a Moncler Genius digital presentation in 2021. The addition of Mercedes-Benz, which has a long tradition of sponsoring fashion weeks but has never appeared on their schedules, is another intriguing crossover.
The semantic shift from “collaboration” to “co-creation” across sectors outside of fashion was first introduced by chairman and CEO Remo Ruffini in May 2022 and signals Moncler’s acceleration beyond fashion in order to attract new audiences and drive further growth. This emphasis on co-creation seems to imply that new products – whether in audio, fashion, transport or other categories – will be manufactured by all parties involved and not Moncler alone. A spokesperson declined to reveal specific details about the collections to come. By appearances, it’s a bigger investment into the Genius machine. Moncler Group total revenues surpassed €2 billion in 2021. Moncler Genius accounts for 5 to 10 per cent of total revenues, Ruffini said in May. By comparison in terms of reach potential, Mercedes-Benz’s revenues in the same year were €168 billion.
That’s not to say fashion is left out of the new Genius. Adidas Originals and the Crocs-disrupting designer Salehe Bembury will also present concepts at Moncler’s London Fashion Week launch on 20 February. Returning Genius partners from fashion are Hiroshi Fujiwara’s Frgmt and Palm Angels, the high-flying Paris-showing streetwear brand founded by Moncler’s former art director Francesco Ragazzi. The final designer taking part – but whose outlier spirit means he steers clear of identifying as a Genius – is Rick Owens, whose installation was one highlight of Moncler's most recent physical reveal back in February 2020.
If that event is any indication, industry guests and audience members (tickets will be available via Moncler.com) can expect each co-creator to have a dedicated installation space at Olympia London. Each installation typically seeks to embody the concept behind each collection, as well as to showcase the collection itself. A release issued by Moncler said each co-creator would be “presenting immersive experiences and performances that represent their creative visions”. A spokesman would not confirm whether Jay-Z, Keys or Williams – or indeed any other musical artists associated with them – will be performing live at the event.
From his earliest partnerships with Balenciaga and Junya Watanabe in the mid-2000s, Ruffini has long used collaborations as a tool to amplify brand visibility and, as he typically puts it, “create energy”. Via email, Ruffini said of this latest chapter: “At Moncler, we strive to continuously be an expression of the times, which goes hand-in-hand with the instinct of never standing still. Genius was born as a commitment to create in new ways and constantly progress, which is why we are evolving our approach to collaborating, exploring new and different industries.” The company is also currently developing a project in partnership with former Apple designer Jony Ive and last month unveiled a Genius partnership with Sacai at its show in Paris.
Moncler introduced its Genius concept in 2018 after shuttering its Gamme Bleu and Gamme Rouge runway-shown lines, which had been designed by Thom Browne and Giambattista Valli, respectively. Initially, the list of collaborators was strictly confined to fashion (with a side serving of dogwear).
Moncler’s decision to import such an influential roster of talents and brands drawn from fashion and across global culture is a powerful shot in the arm for London Fashion Week. With Moncler alongside Burberry, which is showing the same day, the British capital’s fashion event will now boast two “tentpole” moments – shows thrown by globally powerful houses – once again drawing more international editors to London, who will, in turn, be exposed to the rest of LFW’s calendar. Certainly, the prospect of witnessing Daniel Lee’s first runway show for Burberry on the same day as new collections from a superstar portfolio as creatively diverse as Jay-Z, Alicia Keys and Rick Owens means that 20 January will make for a stand-out Monday in the fashion month schedule.
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