Victoria Beckham Launches Pre-Fall 2022 & Her First Monogram

With her pre-fall 2022 collection, Victoria Beckham didn’t just set out to bring sexy back. She brought her own monogram into the world, too. Maintaining a luxurious tension between cheeky and sophisticated, her languid dresses came with sexy zip details and erotic cut-outs, while her aviation-inspired tailoring and outerwear were sensually sculpted or alluringly strict. On a video call from her studio in West London, Victoria Beckham told Anders Christian Madsen why.

You were never that into monograms, were you?

I’ve done a lot of things in my life, Anders, and I’m pretty sure you’ve documented a fair amount of it. But I was never that person who wore big branding all-over. Neither I nor David. But I can see that a lot of people do like that, so the challenge was, how do we do branding in an elegant and sophisticated and timeless way that we can carry on? I’m not interested in creating something that someone will wear once.

 
How did you approach your VB monogram, then?

Most of my starting points in designing are things that I don’t like. And I don’t like monograms, so I really enjoyed that challenge. And actually, this is now in my personal wardrobe and I’m really excited to wear it. It’s elegant, it’s chic. I think it’s going to feel quite timeless, so it’s something I can continue through the season.

Monogram used to be something houses put on bags. Has that completely changed?

You know, I think that, you know, maybe there will be a bag coming with that, you know, very soon…

Oh, okay!

It would certainly lend itself very well to an accessory. But for me, it just makes something quite timeless. It’s so subtle it looks like a print. I’ve been wanting to do it for a long time, but it was about finding the right way of doing it. The pre-collection seemed like the right time to launch it.
Are you ready to see some stranger covered in your initials? You know, designers can’t choose who buys their things…

I just think this is so chic that whoever wears it will look like the chicest person.

What is the fabric you’ve used in these monogram pieces?

It’s viscose twill. This fabric is great, because you can throw it in your suitcase and it doesn’t crease. The amount of hotels I’ve been to that don’t know how to steam or press drives me crazy. So, we’ve got to find ways around that. We’ve got shirts, trousers and dresses in this fabric.

It’s all very sophisticated, but when you look closely, isn’t it rather a saucy collection?

I wanted to bring sexy back, but in my way. I don’t bury myself beneath clothes anymore. I wanted to celebrate being a woman. I want to accentuate my bum and my waist with seaming details, and feel sexy again. I wanted more structure, I wanted a leaner silhouette, and I wanted to make more of an event of dressing.

Is it all those trips to Miami?

Very possibly.

How was Christmas in Miami?

It was so Miami. It was face masks and thongs. It was good to be back.

How did you go about bringing sexy back?

When you look at the skirt, there’s lot of intricate seaming details, which is very signature; something I’ve focused on from the very beginning. It’s really flattering on a woman’s body because it lifts the bum and elongates the silhouette. We finish it off with these leather details, which make it really tough as well.

Do I sense a certain strictness?

I wanted a bit more discipline. It gives me a confidence. We’ve all become a bit too used to feeling easy, if you like. For example, the pyjama set this season is more tailored. You do have a waist as opposed to an elastic waist, which we had the season after people had been locked in the house for so long. They wanted to go out and feel comfortable and easy. I’m over that now. You want to look easy, but there needs to be more structure and discipline in the way we’re dressing. There’s been too many seasons of being too comfortable in the office. Get back to the office and put on some smart clothes.

Those zip dresses are very smart, but couldn’t they potentially get very sexy, too?

The great thing about these zips is that they function. This is the perfect day dress, but in the evening you can unzip them and have a little more leg showing, or a little more side showing, or lower the neckline. It’s down to the customer to decide how sexy she wants to be. Zip or unzip, depending where the mood takes you!

The dresses with the cut-outs that are not in the look book are quite interesting in that sense…

Yes, because you’ve got a high neck and a long sleeve: elegant. Then, the cut-outs sit on the ab…. You know, your best parts from when you’re in the gym, Anders. That’s the word on the street…

My trainer has a lot to live up to. But actually, I’ve been wearing one of your coats. All those men in your family must be begging you to make menswear?

The one who’s asked me is Cruz, because he loves my coords. I make him these big cords he likes in strange colours.

Is Cruz launching an album?

I wouldn’t say it’s imminent, but he’s been in the studio working on it. He writes all of his own songs. He plays the piano, he plays the guitar, and he works on everything himself. At the moment he’s enjoying and experimenting. He loves fashion as well. All the kids do.
I’m happy that someone is continuing the family tradition…

Of what, fashion or singing? Careful!

Of singing!

Good. Yeah, he’s got a very good voice. He’s very talented.