It’s a marked shift from the way most of us have engaged with resale in the past: we buy new pieces in one place, then sell them in another. In contrast, Net-a-Porter’s resale pilot will instantly position every item on its website as one you might eventually sell back. The hope is that it will inspire more confidence in customers to invest in luxury goods, touting precisely where they can resell them at a later date. (For handbag lovers, there’s a special incentive: you’ll be paid instantly for an accepted luxury bag, rather than waiting for another customer to buy it through Reflaunt.)
The platform also aligns with Yoox Net-a-Porter’s sustainability strategy for 2030, which emphasises the need for long-lasting garments and circularity. After debuting on Net-a-Porter in the UK this autumn, the “re-commerce” experience will expand to the US, Germany, and Hong Kong, as well as on the company’s other sites, Mr Porter and The Outnet.
It’s worth mentioning that buying a one-year-old designer handbag – an item that’s unlikely to be thrown in the trash – isn’t really going to save the planet. Research has shown that we actually consume more when we believe something is “recycled” or “circular.” Last year, Maxine Bédat of the New Standard Institute provided some insight: “It’s terrific that more people are waking up to this concept [of second-hand] and that brands are getting in on it and finding a way to adjust their business models. Having said that, we can’t just ignore the research that has found that recycling symbols lead to more consumption… In order for us to actually curb our impact, it has to be [implemented as] a shift in the business model, and not just an additional revenue stream.”
The real change will come when second-hand surpasses fast fashion in terms of demand and aspiration, and when our access to gently-used clothing grows to a point where brands can actually start producing less. That will take time, but Net-a-Porter’s investment is a big step in that direction.
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