Valencia Fashion Week has successfully completed its fourteenth edition with its presentation of the collections for Autumn & Winter 2013.
The ´Noble Room´ of the Palace of the Exhibition has been an exquisite space where the fashion world has been influenced from the established, to the more radical proposals of Valencian up-and-coming young designers in perfect harmony, with fashion shows and trends from prêt-à-porter to demi-couture in a superb platform to verify the designers credibility and ideals from this array of talent.
Within this magnificent space, a marriage of industry, leisure, culture and business activities were presented for the ´global village of fashion.´
´VFW seeks to advocate a concept without limits to any geographical gateway to enhance the brand "Valencia fashion" while promoting and building industry worldwide´ their press office quoted.
Debates and reflections on the new fashion media and communications took place on a daily basis, along with the role of designers and dressmakers in shaping the trends. A theme which has been developed in parallel activities through out the three days of the fashion extravaganza, which integrated 25 designers and fashion shows in 21 hours, in an attempt to strengthen the design copyright status of the fashion market within Community Valencia.
The array of fashion shows presented, was sometimes eclectic, and always breathtaking. The classical sobriety of Alexander Resta, the radical methodology of Anillarte, the tactile sensuality and femininity of Miguel Vizcaino, the genius of Aurelia Gil´s aesthetics combined with avante garde talent of Bibian Blue and Tomero Encarnis couture inspired craftsmanship.
Esther Noriega presented to us to the mystical universe of white contrasting with the ambiguity of the skin in her latest collection, whilst Gabriel Segui opted for a more primal elegance and Maria Lucia Cózar Couture presented her collection in a highly unified and wearable package. VFW has had its magnificent representation reinforced from The Guild of Tailoring (Dolores Sewing, Ruth Gate, Susa Plaza and Dolores Molla) and repeat collections from the highly successful Javier y Javier, Amparo Chorda and Juan Andrés Mompó to name a few.
In addition to all these activities, the ´Competition Zone D´ has established itself as a crucial place in VFW with challenging proposals that leap off the runway in ready-to-wear gusto, with the designers Antonio Posadas, Alejandro Berro, Almaravi, Anel Yaos, Visori Fashion Art and JDYS taking part in these exciting deliverables.
As a climax to the closure of the awards ceremony, the catwalk had kept an ace up its sleeve.
It was not exactly a prize or an award, just a heart felt confirmation of a sincere friendship and unconditional recognition of this increasingly popular fashion event for someone who has been present at each of its editions since 1999, a recognition to´The first lady of fashion journalism´ Maria Calabuig, who also in return took her time to acknowledge the several hundred people, along with members of the various technical teams, art, media, protocol and sponsorship who make up the bi-annual event.
JDYS, Mary Cozar Couture, Carla Denecker and Miguel Vizcaino became the latest winners of the Autumn & Winter collections 2013-14.
The Revlon Professional Award for Best Designer within ´ZONA D´ (which studied the emerging designers around the Spanish State), led to designer JDYS Murcia winning the prize of 1,500 € for her design aesthetic with ´volumetric nuances of garments made of felt recycled-like rigidity.´
The Revlon Professional Award for the best hair styling, with 1,500 € in prize money, chosen from the 14 official catwalk parades, and with a jury of members from the artistic team of Revlon Professional | American Crew VFW present on the runway went to Mary Cózar Couture ,a debutante on the VFW catwalk, where we saw her work recognized by the merger ´between tribal and contemporary salon with hairdresser timeless elegance of defining the new modern woman´.
In addition to this, VFW gave two honorary awards, in recognising the best model and best collection of the runway, which were delivered from Ms M ª José Catalá Verdet, the Councillor for Education, Culture and Sport. The Best Model of the XIV edition was chosen by the cast and crew of VFW and went to Valencian Carla Denecker.
Last but not least, the Castellonense designer Miguel Vizcaino, was the overall winner of the Autumn-Winter 2013-14 collection.
With so many designers and so little time, who were our hottest predictions for future success from this bi-annual jewel in the Valenciana super cities crown?
JDYS
´Homogenous Freedom.´ is composed through a number of common features that create a similarity between each and every one of the items that compose it.
The common denominator is the colour black and the use of transparencies, which are closely linked to volume. The collection is composed of the most unusual fabrics within garment and it also presents a recycling originality, something common in this collection.
JUAN ANDRES MOMPO
´The Diagonal Collection.´Juan tries to be more adapted to the reality of the times we live in, and this is formidable because they are either good or bad. To him, the most important thing is that we live and follow fashion by however adverse the circumstances are. ´Fashion is as indispensable to society as breathing is´ , it is the witness of time passing.
The high waist line structure is accented with bows, and asymmetric, and the collection is presented in powdered colours with white and dark accents.
ENCARNIS TOMERO
´The Banksy Collection.´ Here, the garments are un tethered with a dynamic usage that invites a free movement of the body. Utilising Banksy´s design ethos, this is a collection of high impact quick in its execution and in the claim to its receptors.
MARIA COZAR COUTURE
´My Collection, Tango For You.´ A collection playing with the mixture of different weights and textures of 100% natural fabrics, both inside and outside. The collection features high quality wool for tailored pieces and, in a more fluid linel, delicate materials and 100% Silk like crepe, chiffon, tulle and lace.
With a color palette for the femme fatale that lives in petrol blue, black and red, but without neglecting pure white or pearl gray, Maria brings finesse to the collection. And to complete the look, leather belts, high heels and a sober and attractive styling with a 40´s influence.
PATRICIA ADAM
´Chrysalid Collection.´ The garments have a simple construction, following volumes cut and finished so subtle and insinuating. Patricia combines different textures to add warmth with fluidity and movement. The fabrics have been carefully selected to achieve a perfect harmony in their combination, reflecting the simplicity, sophistication and elegance that aims to achieve this collection. The aggressiveness of her necklines are softened by applying a desaturated palette and relaxed and sober and simple patterns.
The main reference to the collection is three lines (Line draping, Bellows line, and Line crossings). each of these are very specific in form, structure and colour.
ALEJANDRO RESTA
´Vitalic Collection.´Is notable for its marked forms, tall sizes, big sleeves and collars that add a powerful touch of "folk" to the silhouette, giving the collection an element of masculinity.
Cloths, crepes, satins, wool and lace are the essential materials here, which together with the pure and linear color range of black and mustard as a base, plays with providing energy to the garments.
This combination marks all the characteristics of a strong and powerful collection, full of vitality.
AURELIA GIL
´Patagonia Collection.´A collection of contradictions that mixes shiny and dull, heavy and light, muted colors, and casual clothes with evening looks, all to recreate a journey, a walk, a life, a journey.
JAVIER Y JAVIER
´Potent Palace Collection.´A collection that is elegant, extravagant, modern and fun in which tissue thin fabrics are predominant, along with pure wool, silk brocade, crepe, tulle, jewels and sequins, are all added in various applications, which come together and move well.
ANILLARTE
´Heroic Collection.´Breastplates and armour that we use with an invisbility through out our day. Anillarte creates these to provide security and make the wearer feel like a real hero.
VISORI FASHIONART
´A Man In The Moon Collection.´In the distance is the blue planet. Wrapped in an odyssey of silences and fleeting echoes. Maybe today I will decide to walk along the opposite side of where I live. I like the curiosity to discover where they come from, those flashes of metal. In equal volumes, I meet other new colorful stones to contrast with the pallor of my skin.
ANEL YAOS
´The Other Side Of Heaven Collection.´ In the mixed collection presented here, there is an emphasis on the individual, encouraging him never to lose his manhood.
In the creative process and study of the collection, there has always been present the wonderful 70´s and 80´s influences, a nod to the great icons of the time like Cindy Lauper or Vivienne Westwood. The fashion trendies and the influence of the English, the ambiguous, the evolution, the volumes and the most important of them all, the attention to detail.
The looks of this collection consist on very classic staples like shirts, cardigans, coats which are offset against bulky clothing and bold pieces.
BIBIAN BLUE
´Caged Love Collection.´Here, inspiration comes from enigmatic pulses and tortured beings, played with the eccentricity and drama of a caged woman, high with emotions, which are nothing more than small internal cages that enclose a dream unrealized.
The clothes are very worked, where the structure and silhouette take centre stage, using corsets as a basis, which then evolve into skirts and shorts. Geometric lines draw new shapes within the pieces presented here.
LUCIA BOTELLA
´Couture Collection.´ The delight of the tradition and craftsmanship of decades, along with a sincere passion for every detail. The reunion with time and dedication. This is definitely the way to love high fashion. Couture is a tribute to a life dedicated to building jewel encrusted dresses, dreamy soft and subtle embroidery, and a chance to be seduced by the elegance of wisdom or sinuous bodies, whilst enjoying every moment of it.
GABRIEL SEGUI
´Cravate Collection.´ This collection offers a clear nod to the male attitude and a feminine elegant and self-assured style, providing designs that enhance the figure of woman by providing high-waisted ,napa shirts marked with lapels, jacket dresses pinstripe, tuxedos and tuxedo skin and straight cut dresses.
The unique signature designs are characterized by being made of high quality fur (Astrakhan Afghan Fox Canada), from Napa, with reptile prints or fine wool textiles. The broad palette of neutral colors presented as alternating black and gray with more intense additions of red wine, mustard, fuchsia and emerald green.
MIGUEL VIZCAINO
´Auril Collection.´Amongst the piercing cold, frozen nebulae and mountains of snow, this label was born.Think Russian heiress, bloody descendant lineages, the last of the ice princesses. Surrounded by luxurious fabrics, dazzling jewels and dark betrayals, the pieces become a femme fatale, with their desire and lust, for the highest and the most ardent passionate sins, all without ever losing it´s firm coldness.
ALMARAVI
´Fragile Travel Collection.´ Here, the fabrics are the most varied, from stenciled canvas cotton knit, woven wire through cactus, poplin, voile printed, Moroccan trimmings, etc ... This collection consists of 20 looks, ten women and ten men, mixing fabrics and shapes from all different parts of the world.
The clothes are comfortable and adaptable, defining an attractive woman, determined and free spirit. The man of "Travelling Fragile" is a thrill seeker who wanders the world with strong personality, adapting to each location, merging with the nature that surrounds him.
ALEJANDRO BERRO
´Entelechy Collection.´ This collection is inspired by the theory of Aristotle on Entelequia, which refers to a certain state or mode of existence in which one thing is working actively in itself and also actively working towards achieving an end to the same thing intrinsicly . But, it is also that end, the state in which the entity has made its full potential, and therefore, has reached perfection. In the study of the forces that give rise to this theory Freud established a direct relationship with his theory of the subconscious (the ego, the id and the superego), in which three facets of the mind interact to achieve that end and elevate man to its best.
ANTONIO POSADAS
´Kosher Collection.´ Kosher, right and proper, that which complies with the precepts of our own economic crisis. As if it were pure food, the social atmosphere pushes us as designers and consumers, as if we are practitioners of a common religion in fashion, to create and consume under some provisions aimed at simplicity and that will lead to a fashion industry sustainable. On the thread aesthetics of the garments and utensils used in religious ceremonies of the Jewish religion and modesty laws that determine how practitioners are to wear this orthodox religion, analyzed in painting by Marc Chagall Jewish theme .
Charles Daniel McDonald
