Friday, September 4, 2015

Why Tom Feels Less Sexy

Tom Ford may have built his name by bringing the sex factor to his collections but, while the designer lived and breathed the look he was selling in the past, he has revealed that he feels very different now.


"I feel less sexy now that I'm a father and actually there's a scientific reason for that," he explained to Mr Porter. "I read that men who are the primary care-givers of children have lower testosterone levels. It drops, according to some reports, because nature wants the man to stay with the children and not let them wander off. Now I don't know if my testosterone levels have dropped or not, I haven't had them tested, but I feel less sexy, definitely."

Science aside, the former party boy also attributes his new-found calm to laying off the alcohol that, he said, used to perpetuate his behaviour.  "I was a highly functioning alcoholic. I think I did a lot of things creatively that I probably wouldn't have done had I been sober - in the end, they kind of all worked to my advantage," he openly admitted. "I suppose stopping drinking made me feel less sexy, too. I think that being drunk all the time used to fuel, and I don't mean my sex drive, but my… you know, I did a lot of things with Terry Richardson, that I wouldn't have otherwise done."


It is, however, all a part of a grander plan - it would be unlike Ford not to want to dictate and curate his own life path in the same way that he has our wardrobes for the best part of the last three decades after all.

"I used to plan what I was going to look like at 50 years old," he smiled. "Yeah, I was going to have some grey right here - which I have decided not to have for the moment - I was going to have more hair, but other than that I am exactly what I thought I was going to be."

The V&A Gets Undressed

The V&A has announced its plans to celebrate the most ubiquitous area of clothing in everyone's home: the underwear drawer. Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear will run from April 2016 to February 2017 and it's set to be a popular affair.


Addressing "the practicalities of underwear and its role in the fashionable wardrobe while highlighting its sensual, sexual appeal," the exhibition will "explore dress reformers and designers such as Paul Poiret, who argued for the beauty of the natural body, as well as entrepreneurs, inventors and innovators who have played a critical role in the development of increasingly more effective and comfortable underwear", according to a press release from the South Kensington museum today.

In addition to charting the trajectory of undergarments, there will also be over 140 examples, photographs, films, advertisements and packaging on display, highlighting the changing concepts of the ideal body.

Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Scott´s Next Step

Scott Schuman has spent the last decade capturing street style in the fashion capitals of the world, but his third tome -The Sartorialist X- has taken him further afield.

"I really travelled the world to explore what style and beauty means to a host of different cultures," he told us ahead of its publication tomorrow. "I went to Dubai, Kiev, Johannesburg, Morocco, northern India, Peru and the pictures from these faraway places juxtapose so nicely with the more established fashion capitals, as well as places like Bangkok and Mumbai. I find so much inspiration in diversity and in challenging my eye to appreciate unfamiliar colours, patterns and shapes. In this sense, this is the book I've been waiting to do."


The 511-page book is something of a doorstop, full of the type of candid shots that made Schuman a major player and, despite changing where he shoots on the grid, an old haunt will always hold a special place in his heart.

"Italy is my number one inspiration. There's a level of sophistication and old-world decorum that's unique and unwavering," he explained. "Gracefulness and reverence for good manners informs everything they do: the way they dress, the way they set the table, even the handwriting. And this trickles down to the younger generations. It's not cool in Italy to have a don't-give-a-damn attitude which many fashion kids might have. It's cool to care and be polite. "

Next, the photographer will be turning his attentions to another area of the fashion industry, including expanding the footwear collection that he designed with Sutor Mantellasi last year and developing a menswear clothing collection - the latter of which he remains tight-lipped about ("I can't reveal too much yet!"). What he will say, however, is how he's drawing on his experience of being on the physical and metaphorical fashion front row.


"I've spent the last ten years studying other people's style and it's really helped me answer my own fashion questions," he said. "I have a design degree and I am so grateful that I do because it means I've always looked at fashion and design with a critical eye, rather than as a fan. And now, having spent so many years doing research on the streets of the world, I feel ready to put my knowledge and understanding to good use."

The Sartorialist X is published by Penguin Random House tomorrow, September 3, when a limited-edition run of 400 cloth-bound hardback, which includes a signed print of one of Schuman's photographs, will be available in the UK only.

Will The Hadids Be The First Angel Sisters?

Some of the world's most beautiful women have walked in the Victoria´s Secret show over the past 20 years, but there have never been sisters on the lingerie giant's catwalk - although the Hadids could be about to change that. Gigi Hadid first became a face of Victoria's Secret's little sister label, Pink, earlier this year - and now her own little sister, Bella, is working for the brand.


Bella posted images of herself on a shoot with Victoria's Secret model Devon Windsor (who has two shows under her belt), and new Pink ambassador Rachel Hilbert earlier this week, where the threesome were sporting the brand's activewear collection.

Hilbert has also worked with Gigi, as ambassadors for Pink's Spring Break event earlier this summer, meaning the trio are now favourites to make their debut this December when the show takes place in New York.

The Olsens Move To Paris

Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen are showing in Paris this season, rather than their usual New York spot. Just as Givenchy makes the opposite move, the sisters - who have been celebrated in the US with several CFDA Awards for both their accessories and their ready-to-wear offerings - will be heading to the city of light, a spokesperson confirmed this morning.


It's not the first time that the sisters have switched the brand's presentation from NY to Paris. The spring/summer 2011 show took place in the French capital, but was explained at the time as having been out of necessity, since the samples weren't able to reach New York in time for the city's fashion week.

The Olsens made headlines recently when a former intern accused The Row of mistreatment, an allegation which the company strongly denied. The date and venue for the Paris show has not yet been confirmed.

How You Can Go To The Givenchy Show

When ashion week comes around later this month, you may be able to get a lot closer to the front row than just watching from your laptop, since Givenchy  is opening its show to the public. The French house, which usually shows in Paris, announced in June that it would join the New York Fashion Week schedule this season to celebrate the opening of its Manhattan flagship - and now it's been revealed that the show won't be the intimate Parisian affair we're used to.


Attended last season by Kim Kardashian West, Kanye West, and Katy Perry, this season's show will be attended by 1,200 non-celebrity, non-industry people - as well as a group of "students and faculty from local fashion schools," WWD reported. So how can you get yourself on the guest list, we hear you wonder?

Givenchy will allocate more than 800 of the tickets to applicants through a website set up with Nycgo.com, the City's marketing office, on a first-come, first-served basis. The as-yet-unannounced web address will be revealed later today (at 10am US time, 3pm UK time). The show will take place at 6.30pm on September 11th.

Fashion's Night Out Countdown

With just 10 days to go until Fashion´s Night Out´s 2015´s incarnation, Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman prepares us for the festivities ahead from an interview she gave yesterday in London.


"I'm delighted to introduce our new initiative, Vogue Loves, to Regent Street in London. As one of the oldest shopping streets in England, Regent Street offers an impressive range of brands, both new and now iconic, and I hope that the evening will bring all the fun of fashion right into the heart of London retail."

"Everyone here at Vogue is eager to explore the delights offered by the many retailers taking part, as well as meet our readers on the ground and - of course - make the most of this unique shopping opportunity. Many local restaurants have signed up to participate, too, so there are plenty of opportunities to refresh and recharge".

"I'd like to thank Max Factor for partnering with us for the event this year and helping us to create an illustrated map, available on the night, which I hope you will keep and use to explore the evening. See you there."