Olivier Theyskens Talks Azzaro: “There Is A Tremendous Heritage, And It’s A Beautiful Name”

The French label Azzaro has named Olivier Theyskens as its new artistic director. The Belgian designer’s first collection for the label will combine women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and couture, and will be presented in July during Paris’s haute couture shows.

This looks like a win-win for both parties. After a buzzy but ultimately brief revival at the hands of Vanessa Seward, the house Loris Azzaro built on a signature crystal-embroidered cut-out evening dress has struggled for relevance. Theyskens, a veteran of Rochas, Nina Ricci, and Theory, launched an eponymous collection three years ago, and while the romance and rigour of his hand hasn’t faded, the brand remains a start-up with somewhat limited resources.

Theyskens will have access to the heritage house’s Rue Faubourg St Honoré couture workshops. Azzaro, in return, gets a designer of prodigious talent, who created some of the most spectacular evening dresses of the late ’90s and ’00s, including the black satin hook-and-eye covered coat dress Madonna wore to the 1998 Academy Awards.

Theyskens spoke via the phone and shared his excitement, not just about the prospect of making couture, but also about returning to menswear. Here are excerpts from the conversation.

Why did this opportunity appeal to you?

It just naturally feels like something attractive. I think there is much for me to explore. There is a tremendous heritage, and it’s a beautiful name. It’s a very fitting proposition for me because I’m able to continue my brand, doing my presentation during fashion week, and being able to present collections for Azzaro during couture. It is very interesting for me also to create two visions and to balance a tight, but feasible schedule.

Talk about the Azzaro heritage. What does it stand for to you?

Now I’m going to be able to explore more and see the spectrum. I was obviously very aware of the main iconic imagery, the fashion landmarks – femininity, sensuality, chic, Paris. There is obviously a sense of tailoring and couture, and these are all values that are always a pleasure for a designer to focus on.

How will you manage two brands, your own and Azzaro?

I have always been designing for other brands than mine. I’m not going to change this approach… It’s always going to look somehow personal, but I’m going to design things here that I would never design for myself. I’m very happy to be able to approach my own brand in a very free way. I’ve had the time now in these first three years to build a little bit of a family around me, so it’s the right moment for me, too. Before it was too early, now it’s the right moment to give more responsibilities to my personal studio.

It must be a thrill, the prospect of doing couture.

I’ve always considered that even through ready-to-wear you were able to express something couture. The house is very modern in its approach because it’s very free. It presents ready-to-wear in couture week and couture for men and women. We’ll see how I’m going to develop this, but it fits my approach. It’s a state of mind with crafts and design.

Are you anticipating any challenges managing two houses?

I obviously don’t think it’s going to be easy, but I’ve never been scared by [challenges]. I’m confident. With a bit of maturity I’ve learned to face things that are demanding. The important thing is that you never work alone, you work with people around you, and you work on a schedule.

The last time you did menswear was when you were at Theory, right?

I was. It was really nice, and actually I’m still wearing most of the things I was doing there. I really enjoyed it and I was missing it. Many people were telling me I should do it again, or bring it to my brand, but it’s another [brand in my mind]. So it’s a great opportunity here. The sex appeal of the house makes sense for men and women. It’s great, I’m very happy that there is a structure here to do menswear.

Especially when menswear is having such an exciting moment and men’s designers are breaking all the old rules.

More than designers breaking the rules, men at last are breaking the rules today. Customers and lifestyles and what the young guys are aspiring to is new. It’s definitely a big time for change in menswear. As a designer I feel free to bring my own vision to this, and I hope that guys are going to like it.