Sunday, July 12, 2015

Christian Dior Couture - Autumn/Winter 2015

Dior´s Perspex palace this afternoon was tropical like a greenhouse: panels of paired plastic hung above a catwalk of purple AstroTurf, a modern counterpoint to a very historically referenced show.

Inspired by the Flemish masters, the models conveyed a purity in their styling with loose hair and nude faces. This matched the flowing white gowns, reversible capes, opulent fur stoles and long and narrow coats that were often worn over wide-legged corduroy flares. 


Raf Simons  revisited many of his ideas, such as the floating tulip skirts, showing that although he is a master of new fabrics and is attracted by youth culture his Dior aesthetic is hugely influenced by the historical.

Tight-waisted coats flared into wide New Look skirts; evening gowns were worn almost as tabards but open at the side, modesty preserved by gold links; the prints were soft like the work of Impressionist painters; and often a jacquard knit tank top was added to give a clever unexpected twist, at other times a soft cage of a jewelled gilet. It was a show of delicate beauty.

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