JW Anderson hosted his first catwalk show as creative director of Loewe this morning - unveiling the changes that he has long envisioned in the Spanish heritage house: brighter, lighter and more daytime was the promise.
"When I think of Spain, I think of being on a beach," he said. "It's not serious, if you know what I mean? Because I don't think Spanish culture is serious in that way. It is not heavy… I think Loewe had become heavy, and I wanted it to be lightened up. I wanted it to feel fresher, sharper."
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| The New Loewe |
Lighter and more colourful it was, but the changes don't stop there. Apparel - which the brand seemingly restated its interest in by ready to wear designer Anderson´s very hiring, replacing former Mulberry helmer and undusputed bag enthusiast Stuart Vevers - will receive a renewed focus, Anderson admits, which is not to say the brand's devoted bag lovers will be disappointed.
"Fundamentally, ready-to-wear is the character. If you do not believe in the character, you do not buy the bag - I 100 per cent believe in that," he said. "You have to want to be that woman. It has to have global appeal, but it doesn't have to have mass appeal… When this brand started, they did not set out to make vintage bags. They went out to make modern bags. So, there always has to be the modernity, no matter what decade you're in."
Far from being a young creative voice only, Anderson is revelling in the business demands of growing and evolving a world-famous house.
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| JW Anderson |
"I do fundamentally want to quadruple this brand," he told WWD of Loewe, clarifying that it's a personal mission and not a target set by LVMH. "I look at sales every morning. If I'm in an airport, I'm at the store. If I'm in Paris, I'm in the store. You have to do that… I want to know what is selling, in what quantity, to whom, and why did they buy it?"
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