Thousands of viewers tuned in for the conversation between two of fashion’s most influential thinkers. What is most exciting about hearing Galliano speak is that even with decades of fashion history written in his name, he refuses to rest on his laurels. More than ever, the designer is passionate about shaping fashion’s future and participating in new dialogues with millennial and Gen-Z customers and fans. How’s he doing that? By dreaming up new ways of communicating virtually. “Isn’t it the time to propose a new way of presenting collections and how we sell them?” he asked.
“I love producing a show,” the designer continued, “[but] I just had to get over that, and accept reality and look forward.” Currently, he is designing the Maison Margiela Artisanal collection with members of his team over Zoom—he noted one of his designers is currently as far away as Australia—and using these new technologies to inspire a new methodology for showcasing fashion. “What I will embrace is how I record this story, this collection, and work with all the technology that is at hand. Through that I can show the authenticity of the garment, that I’m a dressmaker.”
So will a virtual Margiela show be 3D, CGI, AR, or something we’ve never even seen before? “It is an adventure; I’ve never done it before!” the designer demurred, suggesting that he hopes to combine the physical and digital. “You know, I like doing smaller shows, much more intimate, where everyone gets a front-row [seat], and then maybe have some cyber invitees who sit there...a writer, an actor, a poet, something new.”
Two things Maison Margiela’s presentations won’t be lacking is passion and artistry. “What [this time has] inspired me to do is maybe show some of the process work. So many of our Y and Z Generations don’t get to see that. [For Artisanal, in July] I’ll be showing the essence, Le Parfum, the top of the pyramid. That’s what I’m showing, that’s what I want people to understand. Come September, the influence and how that’s inspired the ready-to-wear lines, the co-ed, the accessories—I’m seeing it as a long-term idea, and let’s see how that goes. I’m super excited, really.”
Designing for a real-life or digital audience won’t change the manner in which Galliano works. “The creative process will be the creative process. I’m lucky, or sensitive enough, to tune into those things,” he said. He’s been staying plugged in with his younger colleagues over the internet, joining Zoom parties and taking note of what everyone is weaning. “Have you seen the Zoom parties? I saw Steven Klein’s the other day, it was major!” he exclaimed. “[Younger people are] still going to throw on a red lip, they’re still going to want to be seductive—even if it is online. Honestly, I think what people wear will be inspired by how the de-confinement kicks in. I’m keeping my eyes and ears open, for sure.”
As Wintour noted, technology isn’t the only realm in which Galliano has been pushing fashion’s potential forward. He has also been a leader in both sustainable practices and the destruction of antiquated gender norms. “We just felt that we wanted to speak the grammar of today, and recycling and upcycling gave us Recicla,” he said, referencing the new collection of upcycled garments shown as a part of the autumn/winter 2020 Maison Margiela catwalk show. The upcycling doesn’t end there. A collection of accessories made of high-end leather scraps was produced and sold in a sort of made-to-measure capacity, with different regions of the world receiving one-of-a-kind products. “I love the idea that something like that has actually made our merchandisers, marketing, [and] the commercial team creative as well,” he said.
Regarding the continued blurring of gender lines, Galliano spoke passionately about how he hopes this pause in the fashion system can break down the barriers between genders. “If showrooms, boy’s and girl’s, could merge, it would cut down a lot of travel, a lot of waste—and it’s a much more exciting way of buying collections too,” he began. “Beyond that, you can start to create newer shapes [by working across genders]. You can chill out the cut of the dress. Also, it’s inspired me to take what’s synonymous with a very feminine way of cutting, the bias-cut dresses—you know, my dresses—but taking that idea and proposing that in the boy genre of clothes: a suit, a caban, a trench. Trying to cut that on a bias, it just makes it so gorgeous, it gives it this illustrated line; there’s this louche look. It’s comfortable, it’s as easy as wearing a string vest, but this liquid mercurial satin—boys and girls can buy into that too.”
As the conversation came to a close, Galliano reflected on what keeps him motivated during this strange time: “Passion. I’m a dressmaker. I’m driven by the craft and the dedication of my team and the freedom to create. It’s really important for me. I think you can be anything in this world, and if you can be anything, can we just try being kinder to each other and kinder to our planet?”
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