This Italian Designer Is Transforming The Essence Of Jewellery

More than just jewellery, anGostura creates statement pieces with a bohemian aura that envelop the body like mystical garments. Italian designer Giulia Tavani tells us all about her inspirations, her collaboration with Palomo Spain and the craziest jewellery she has made.

Its name may not mean anything to you, but anGostura is the new jewellery label to keep an eye on. Like designers like Alan Crocetti, Giulia Tavani offers jewellery that evolves and that is full of audacity. Just scroll through her Instagram account, which has nearly 30k subscribers, and you'll see the extent of her creativity that is completely off the beaten track. Vogue meets with the designer in an exclusive interview, who tells us all about her inspirations, her career and her collaborations.

Your journey in a few words?

Unexpected, lucky, exciting, painful, and filled with sacrifice.

What made you want to go into jewellery?

I started making jewellery for myself and then for my friends. But Big G pushed me to turn a passion into a job. He really believed in me and if you don't have the right people around you that push you and encourage you, the talent doesn't emerge.

How would you describe your world, your aesthetic?

anGostura stems from the desire to evoke tribe and ancient eras. The jewels are sculptural findings that reemerge from the past; they were owned and forgotten in deep waters and far away sands by ancient mysterious gods.

What's the role of precious stones in your jewelry?

I'm trying to bring jewellery together, using only precious and semi-precious stones like diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires with pearls, tourmalines, citrins and peridots in the design. Each jewel is handmade and created to order, making each piece a unique creation.

Where do you get your inspiration from?

The jewels are talismans, amulets, inspired by dreams of an indigenous culture from an unidentified past.

How important is the body in your work?

It's very important. I create with my body first; all the pieces are handmade so I started studying my hands first because that was the first thing that I used. I love the female body most of all, I think that perfection and beauty lie in every female form.

“The jewels are talismans, amulets, inspired by dreams of an indigenous culture from an unidentified past.” - Giulia Tavani

What is the craziest model you've ever designed or made?

Definitely the pieces for Erykah Badu! But for Lily Gatins was also amazing. I created very weird pieces for Miley Cyrus too. But my best 2019 moment was working with Palomo Spain and create a collection for his SS20 POMPEII fashion show in Paris.

Can you talk about the process of creation for the finger ring?

It's a secret! I worked very hard to obtain these results, and I made a lot of mistakes. The only thing that I can tell you is that is a very simple process and that I usually give a manicure to the wax finger, before I proceed to make the fusion in silver or brass.

What was the first jewellery piece you ever wore?

It was a chain made with pearls and stones and the pendant was a pacifier.

What jewellery piece are you never without?

I usually wear a lot of chains but I'm never without two necklaces that have three different stones as a pendant: amethyst, citrin and pink tourmaline.

Which jewellery do you love to gift?

I love to give wedding rings to my friends, who then start their magical journey with my pieces.

Do you have a favorite jewellery designer?

Yes of course; the ancient Egyptians. They were the first ones to invent the art of lost wax. I still create jewelry using this ancient method.

How should a man wear his jewellery?

I think everyone can wear jewellery in whichever way they prefer and feel most confident with.

What is your next challenge?

A collaboration with Ilaria Norsa, a stylist and friend of mine based in Milan. We got together to create ten belts inspired by nightlife and tribal punk, all of which were made by hand. The Inan project will be unveiled in Milan at the end of May 2020, and in Paris, Ibiza and Rome in June 2020.