Has Margiela’s Galliano Risk Paid Off?

Hiring John Gallianowas a risk that has already paid off, Renzo Rosso - who owns OTB, which controls Maison Margiela - asserted today. The Italian businessman revealed that revenues are now growing by more than 30 per cent - as opposed to the 10 to 15 per cent growth that preceded Galliano's arrival - and that only one retailer, out of 350 globally, dropped the brand following his appointment.

"It's another company now. You can feel the energy inside, it's unbelievable," Rosso told WWD. "It was really necessary to hire someone for the next step because Martin was someone who changed the rules in the fashion industry. Before we just did the collection and tried to upgrade it [for couture] and do something nice for the show. Here it is totally the opposite. Now with him, the fashion show comes first. All the rest is coming after couture. So thanks to John, I started to think and to work differently."

After being advised by Martin Margiela himself to "make it your own," Galliano entered the Margiela archive and didn't want to leave.

"We had to drag him out," Rosso joked. "It was one o'clock in the morning, and he was so much in love with the house from that day. He told me, 'Renzo, I cannot imagine that I could design clothing other than for Margiela.' He started to be so inspired and in love with the spirit, the philosophy, and what this man had accomplished before."

Now happily anonymous, not even taking a bow at the end of his shows, Galliano's persona is much shifted from the Dior days - although some things do remain the same. Part of Galliano's success can be attributed to his close and loyal team, many of whom he has worked with in his previous roles, including his right hand Alexandre Roux, formerly of both Galliano and Dior before returning to the designer's team via a stint at Gucci. Jean-Yves Mustiere, most recently at Roberto Cavalli; former Oscar de la Renta head tailor, turned Margiela head of atelier, Rafaele Illardo; and Galliano's Dior muse and confidant Vanessa Bellanger make up the strong and dedicated talents who have contributed to the unarguably smooth transition.

Now starting to dabble in menswear, beginning mid-next year, and creating a new scent for the brand in 2017, Galliano will be gladder than ever to have those old friends around him - although, it seems Rosso needs no convincing of whether he's up to the ever-growing challenge.

"We fit also very well each other. We are both very brave, we are very revolutionary. Also, I am very precise and John is very precise," he said. "Fashion is now full of people doing social networks, crazy things, just to make people talk. I don't want to be part of this system. I just want the beauty and the dream. This is what I want him to promote: beauty and dreams."