Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Marc Jacobs Goes Optical

The show was eye-popping, madcap, 1960s Swinging London revisited and the years of Andy Warhol and his Factory reintroduced on the runway.

“All that!” a joyous Marc Jacobs said backstage after a presentation of super short and super long outfits, both playing with the idea of optical illusions.


The Jacobs theory is to take an opposing stand: Whatever he did last season — layered, textured outfits with romantic big fur hats — goes into reverse for the next collection.

So the message for summer 2013 was hard, young and graphic as opposed to sweet and dreamy. Some skirts were so short that as the models walked the raised triangular platform with a multitude of doors, matching underpants peeked out to protect their modesty. Other hemlines swept the floor, or, more accurately, the flat shoes with pointed toes that ran through the collection.

The geometric elements were everywhere: zigzag op-art patterns or harlequin effects; shoes with checkered heels. The show — from its Edie Sedgwick hair to its graphic handbags — was an eye-zinger and a blockbuster.

The Marc Jacobs look is always powerful and unique, creating a clear image for the brand, and deliberately out of synch with the prevailing trends.


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