The collection continued Philosophy’s new stripped-down aesthetic
It’s been three seasons since Lorenzo Serafini changed up his direction at Philosophy and shifted into a cleaner, more reduced sensibility. Back then, no one had mentioned “quiet luxury” yet, but he had his finger on the pulse. “The response has been great,” he said backstage before a show that continued that direction. “The first collection of the new vibe has been selling out. We were able to embrace a wider prism of age of women. That makes me really proud, not just because it’s good for business but because it’s good for a designer not just to address a niche audience. I think it’s such a compliment.”
It was easy, breezy essentiality
Serafini referred to his season proposal as “essential”: “We had Sharon Stone in Basic Instinct in mind: this kind of ’90s vibe of essential silhouettes that celebrate ease, effortlessness and comfort. I want women to be able to move when they’re dressed.” He expressed it in lightweight, oversized tailoring, draped second-skin dresses with relaxed dance skirts, and a certain sculpting achieved through precise cutting rather than added fabrication. “It’s more about taking things off than embellishing. It’s simplified. That’s the key word.”
Suits and dresses became one
There was a real coherence between Serafini’s tailoring and flou. Cut with the same sensibility, suits and dresses seemed to morph in and out of each other as the looks swayed down the runway, all floaty and luxe. “We worked with strong silhouettes – very defined – in super light fabrics like wool voile, which is like chiffon made of wool. It’s almost transparent,” he explained, referring to his tailoring. “That’s what’s so seductive about it. It’s really soft and light, and it flows when you walk.”
Dressing essential is all about materials
Serafini achieved his delectable lightness through a study of materials. In order to give the dresses the same expression as the suits, he constructed them in super soft jersey and viscose. “It feels like baby second skin, but can also be draped like a Madame Grès dress without all the structure and boning,” he said. “We keep the ease of a T-shirt but drape it in a very, very dynamic way.” The result was a sense of reduction that never felt cold. “We want this ease and this idea of minimal for today, which is different from the ’90s,” Serafini said, gesturing at his chilly Basic Instinct reference board. “It’s more seductive in a sensual way.”
It featured a collaboration with Malone Souliers
As part of the show, Serafini collaborated with the London-based shoemaker Malone Souliers, who created six different silhouettes founded in the comfortable sensuality the Philosophy designer wanted to convey. “The heels are not very high – they’re medium or short – but they were able to give us the easiest walk ever. They’re so comfortable to walk in,” he said. “My favourite are the thongs – very ’90s – with the super short heel.”
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