It was inspired by Harlequin
It’s rare to see Giorgio Armani go to town on a concrete theme quite like he did in this season’s Privé show. Inspired by a painting he’d seen of Harlequin – the mischievous and romantic commedia dell’arte figure – he emblazoned Le Garde Républicaine in the character’s emblematic multi-coloured diamond pattern. The set design echoed a collection that iterated on the same motif in a wealth of techniques and silhouettes, gilded with the theatrical ruffs of the Italian comedy. “The painting captures the complexity of the character, who is not just about laughter and giggling, but also hides a slight melancholy,” Armani said. “And then, what intrigues me, is the colour palette, which is not as bright as one would expect. It is Harlequin seen through the patina of memory.”
Harlequin diamonds appeared in every technique and silhouette
Armani employed the Harlequin print as a way of demonstrating the possibilities of his haute couture atelier. It appeared as if embossed or quilted into the velvet and silks of jackets, evoked through embroidery in all-sequined garments, or placed meticulously in the intarsia of tailoring. It was woven delicately into super-fine transparent knitted tops, incorporated into the lace of long skirts, beaded painstakingly into gowns, and brought to three-dimensional life in stoles created from diamond-cut fabric. As the show progressed – lifted by the violins of Vivaldi and Veneziano – Armani filtered the Harlequin print into the cuts of silhouettes: diamond-shaped brassieres, diamond necklines, dresses wrapped to create the lines of diamonds, and through the filtrages of transparent or netted layers characteristic of Privé.
Sparkle and shimmer were big themes
The duality Harlequin embodies – the fun and the melancholy – felt fairly representative of an haute couture week that’s played out amid a heavy start to 2023. Between wars, inflation, and the reactionary and populist waves washing over our societies, it can be difficult for designers as well as audiences to find the right tone. Ever the played-down poet, Armani veiled his collection in layers of shimmer. “Of course, we are going through a very difficult time and sparkling might be at odds with the current situation, but I also think that sometimes fashion can play an important part in lifting up the spirit,” he said. “It is important to find a balance, so we should be aware of what is happening in the world but we should also let fashion – and its shimmering – cheer us up.”
It was inspirational beyond the technical level
In times like these, the idea of haute couture can seem out-of-place, but for Armani – and his fellow couturiers – this age-old institution isn’t as much about creating one-off creations for the elite, but about developing, through their experimental artisanal laboratories, techniques and sentiments that can inspire fashion and its surrounding world. “The role of haute couture today can certainly be questioned, but I believe it can also be an important way to preserve an immense wealth of knowledge and techniques, a savoir faire that is truly unique,” Armani said. “Also, we have to be honest and acknowledge that today there are clients for this kind of product. While for other people, couture can be a beautiful way to dream.” Judging by the attention the haute couture shows get on social media alone, there’s something to be said for using the power of this colossal platform.
It was a message of lightness
In essence, Armani said, he wanted to deliver a sense of lightness. “I wanted to explore light and colour, so I hope women will take away a feeling of lightness and shimmering, a feeling of joy like the one that inspired the collection: the idea of a Venetian ball where dresses sparkle and seem to dance. I really like the looks with a little ruffle, a white gorget around the neck. Because that soft touch gives light to the face, and I think the first thing you notice in a woman is her expression which tells so much about her.”
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