Friday, March 8, 2024

Rive Droit - Retail Architecture

In the pulsating heart of Paris' 6th arrondissement, where the essence of bohemian elegance intertwines with artistic flair, Yves Saint Laurent ignited a sartorial revolution. In September 1966, the legendary couturier unveiled his avant-garde masterpiece – the first Rive Gauche boutique, nestled at 21 Rue de Tournon. Transforming a quaint former antique store into a sanctuary of style, Saint Laurent shattered conventions by introducing ready-to-wear clothing within the realm of haute couture. "I'd had enough of making dresses for jaded billionaires," declared the visionary designer, embarking on a mission to democratise fashion. His pioneering venture not only captured the spirit of the Left Bank but also transcended geographical boundaries, with subsequent Rive Gauche emporiums gracing the fashion capitals of London and New York. In 1969, the trailblazing spirit extended to men's fashion, as Saint Laurent unveiled an outpost dedicated to the modern gentleman.

Fast forward to 2011, where an enthralling exhibition titled 'La révolution de la mode' unveiled the profound legacy of Rive Gauche. Revered as a crucible of innovation, the iconic fashion house seamlessly merges heritage with contemporary allure. Under the stewardship of the visionary creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, each season unfolds as a symphony of seduction, reimagining Yves Saint Laurent's timeless aesthetic through a modern lens. Embracing the house's Parisian heritage, Vaccarello's spellbinding collections grace the runways against the majestic backdrop of the Eiffel Tower. As twilight descends, the iconic landmark bathes the showcase in its luminous embrace, a testament to the eternal allure of Yves Saint Laurent's enduring legacy.

Inside Saint Laurent - Lorenzo Meloni

In a bold stride towards redefining luxury retail, Anthony Vaccarello unveiled his visionary concept, Rive Droite ('Right Bank'), in 2019, echoing the democratic spirit of its predecessor, Rive Gauche. Nestled on Rue Saint-Honoré, within the hallowed walls once occupied by the revered concept store Colette, Vaccarello's brainchild emerges as a modern-day wunderkammer. Here, an eclectic ensemble of one-of-a-kind projects and collaborations finds its home, spanning fascinating exhibitions, art books, and an array of Saint Laurent-branded ephemera. From sleek skateboards to artisanal bicycles, avant-garde speakers to designer coffee cups, Rive Droite beckons the discerning connoisseur into a realm where creativity knows no bounds.

´In a testament to Saint Laurent's perpetual quest for innovation, Rive Droite's influence extended across the Atlantic, as a sister store graced the illustrious Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles later that same year. Embodying the ethos of a brand that thrived on youthful rebellion during the iconic 1960s and 1970s, Vaccarello emphasised, "Saint Laurent was a very youthful brand... It shouldn't become something sacred and untouchable."´ - Charles Daniel McDonald

Venturing further into uncharted territory, the house unveiled its most ambitious endeavor to date on the iconic Parisian thoroughfare, Champs-Élysées. Positioned amidst the historic boulevard's revival, this flagship establishment serves as the quintessential embodiment of Vaccarello's reimagined 'store concept' for Saint Laurent. Building upon the tantalising glimpse offered by the Boulevard Saint-Germain outpost in 2022, this monumental inauguration signals a new chapter in the maison's storied legacy. As the Champs-Élysées experiences a resurgence with a flurry of fashion openings and significant renovations, including the grandiose Louis Vuitton 'project' at number 103, anticipation mounts for the forthcoming Olympic spectacle. In this vibrant landscape of reinvention, Saint Laurent's timeless allure shines brighter than ever, casting a spell of elegance and innovation upon the City of Light.

Bespoke, Contemporary Interiors - Lorenzo Meloni

"I wanted to realise one of Yves Saint Laurent's wishes when he arrived in Paris and said he wanted his name to be written in fiery letters on the Champs-Élysées," reveals Vaccarello, as he unveils Saint Laurent's grandiose outpost at number 123. Behind the ornate Haussmannian façade of the 19th-century building – meticulously renovated for this prestigious project – lies a sanctuary of sartorial opulence. Within its stone-clad chambers, Vaccarello's latest collections find their home, echoing the designer's relentless pursuit of monumental elegance, often epitomised by the striking silhouette.

*Drawing inspiration from architectural marvels and avant-garde aesthetics, Vaccarello's menswear showcases stand as a testament to his visionary philosophy. Adorned with dramatically pitched shoulders and impeccably tailored waistlines, these ensembles grace modernist locales akin to temples of haute couture. From Tadao Ando's concrete-clad rotunda at the Parisian gallery Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection to Berlin's iconic Neue Nationalgalerie designed by Mies van der Rohe in 1968, each venue serves as a canvas for Vaccarello's daring creativity.

Interior Design By Vaccarello - Lorenzo Meloni

The Neue Nationalgalerie, with its stark architectural lines and modernist allure, left an indelible mark on Vaccarello's monumental Spring/Summer 2024 womenswear showcase. Produced by the renowned Bureau Betak, the event featured an eclectic array of colossal stone and marble walls adorning the runway. Described by the house as "a modernist set of kaleidoscopic, mineral surfaces, affording views of the Eiffel Tower while highlighting its soft elegance," this breathtaking spectacle epitomises Saint Laurent's timeless fusion of innovation and sophistication. In this captivating narrative of design fusion, the store emerges as an organic extension of the enthralling runway set, embodying Vaccarello's vision for the Spring/Summer 2024 collection – a subtle shift towards simplicity and pragmatism, yet infused with the assertive sophistication synonymous with the Saint Laurent ethos.

As one traverses the threshold into the double-height foyer, a symphony of undulating textures envelops the senses. Marble and stone, with their raw, cracked allure, dominate the space, extending seamlessly throughout the four-floored sanctuary. Here, amidst the simple rails of clothing, a seductive assemblage of surfaces unfolds – some rugged and brutal, others softer and more refined, reminiscent of lapis lazuli embedded in rock. It is a spectacle that evokes a mood of unparalleled sophistication, modernity, and timelessness.

 
Contemporary Cool - Lorenzo Meloni

Within this architectural marvel, echoes of artistic mastery reverberate. Works by the esteemed American sculptor, Donald Judd, grace the space, including a pair of painted aluminum chairs that stand as testaments to minimalist elegance. Wooden seating by the visionary Austrian-born American architect, Rudolph Schindler, alongside custom-made marble display tables, continue the narrative of architectural reduction, inviting patrons to immerse themselves in a realm of refined simplicity.

Ascending to the upper floor unveils a VIP suite, a contemporary ode to Yves Saint Laurent's legendary haute couture salon. Here, an immense circular mirror reflects the essence of indulgence and exclusivity, while glass doors beckon towards a lush private garden sanctuary. Vaccarello's aspiration is clear – to transport visitors into a realm where time stands still, where the allure of the space transcends the distractions of modernity. It is an invitation to disconnect from the digital world and bask in the sheer splendour of the sensory experience.

Installation By Cerith Wyn Evans - Lorenzo Meloni

If the fiery letters of Yves Saint Laurent's name do not entirely blaze as he once desired, fear not, for within the foyer hangs a bewitching neon light sculpture by the visionary Welsh conceptual artist, Cerith Wyn Evans. Illuminated tendrils of intertwined shapes and forms cast a radiant glow, serving as a luminous waymarker for Vaccarello's architectural odyssey. As guests navigate through the ethereal glow of Wyn Evans' creation, they are transported into the realm of Vaccarello's luminous architectural vision. Here, the couturier's legacy is not merely preserved but reimagined anew, each flickering beam a testament to the eternal evolution of style and innovation.

In this enchanted space, where art and architecture converge, Vaccarello breathes new life into Saint Laurent's timeless legacy, crafting a narrative that transcends the boundaries of time and space. It is a tribute to the enduring spirit of creativity and reinvention, where the luminous essence of Yves Saint Laurent's name shines brightly for generations to come.

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