Milan Fashion Week A/W´24

Milan Fashion Week A/W 2024 dazzled with a myriad of captivating debuts and visionary shifts in creative leadership. Stepping onto the illustrious stage were renowned fashion houses Tod’s and Blumarine, introducing new creative directors who ignited the runway with fresh perspectives and innovative designs. Matteo Tamburini, celebrated for his tenure at Bottega Veneta, assumed the reins at Tod's, while Walter Chiapponi, formerly of Tod’s, ascended to the helm at Blumarine, replacing the esteemed Nicolas Brognano. The illustrious house of Moschino also heralded a new era under the stewardship of Adrian Appiolaza, formerly of Loewe, infusing the brand with his unparalleled vision honed over a decade as the ready-to-wear design director. Amidst the whirlwind of transformations, Milan Fashion Week witnessed the triumphant return of Marni to its hallowed runways, marking a notable shift after seasons of captivating audiences in Paris, Tokyo, and New York.

"Milan Fashion Week A/W´24 showcased an electrifying fusion of audacious textures, vivid colour palettes, and enduring sophistication. Designers ingeniously crafted garments that seamlessly blended contemporary flair with timeless elegance. Runways pulsated with daring silhouettes, from voluminous coats to sleek tailored ensembles, each piece exuding confidence and individuality. Rich fabrics such as plush velvets, sumptuous silks, and luxurious furs dominated the collections, enveloping the audience in a sensory journey of opulence. The season celebrated diversity, with designers embracing inclusivity in their casts and designs, amplifying voices and perspectives across the fashion landscape. This current edition epitomised creativity, innovation, and unapologetic glamour." - Charles Daniel McDonald

Prada commanded attention with an awe-inspiring A/W 2024 collection, masterfully crafted by the visionary duo of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. Drawing inspiration from 'fragments of the past,' the collection emerged as a poignant ode to the future, seamlessly blending heritage with innovation. Meanwhile, Matthieu Blazy's latest showcase at Bottega Veneta celebrated the beauty of the mundane, infusing each garment with a profound sense of humanity amidst a world in flux. The illustrious lineup of Italian fashion powerhouses, including Giorgio Armani, Max Mara, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Dolce & Gabbana, graced the stage, each presenting their own distinctive interpretation of elegance and luxury. In this exclusive showcase, we unveil the crème de la crème of Milan Fashion Week A/W 2024, where tradition intertwines with innovation to define the future of Italian couture.

GIORGIO ARMANI

As Milan Fashion Week drew to a close, the illustrious Mr. Armani took centre stage on Sunday morning, offering a grand finale befitting his legendary status as a trailblazer in Milanese and Italian fashion for nearly five decades. Set against the backdrop of the intimate Via Borgonuovo space within the iconic headquarters, the maestro unveiled a mesmerising collection of languid glamour, infused with a spirit of rejuvenation. Entitled 'Winter Flowers,' the collection blossomed from the concept of renewal, drawing inspiration from the resilient blooms that defy the chill of winter, symbolising beauty and regrowth. This thematic thread echoed the sentiments expressed by Matthieu Blazy in his recent Bottega Veneta presentation, which explored the resilience of desert flora and cacti.

In Mr. Armani's vision, this concept translated into a symphony of extraordinary surface embellishments. Painterly floral prints adorned diaphanous layers of organza, while delicate beaded dragonflies danced across the fabric, casting a spell of ethereal elegance. The colour palette ranged from serene pale blues and lush greens to the profound depths of nocturnal blacks and navies, creating a powerful tableau of contrasting hues. With 'Winter Flowers,' Mr. Armani reaffirmed his mastery of couture craftsmanship and his unwavering ability to capture the essence of renewal and beauty in every stitch. As the curtains closed on Milan Fashion Week, his collection stood as a testament to the enduring allure of Italian style and the eternal cycle of rebirth that inspires it.

BOTTEGA VENETA

Matthieu Blazy's latest collection marked a departure from last season's globe-trotting spectacle, embracing a more introspective tone amidst a backdrop of giant Murano glass cactuses blooming in a serene wood-floored show space. Drawing inspiration from the resilient desert plant, Blazy imbued his collection with the spirit of survival and regeneration, echoing the profound resilience required to thrive in challenging landscapes. "In a world ablaze, there's a profound humanity in the simple act of dressing," Blazy mused, envisioning his creations emerging from scorched earth, ready to embark on a journey of renewal. "The idea of rebirth is beautiful. These are the flowers that bloom after the earth is burnt – they give a sense of hope. They come back stronger than ever."

With a reverence for the everyday, Blazy elevated the mundane to monumental proportions, infusing the quotidian wardrobe with an aura of allure and confidence. Trench coats, collared shirts, and knitwear took on new life through expansive proportions and innovative fabrications, each garment a testament to resilience and purpose. From instinctively twisted gowns adorned with shiny gobstopper fastenings to fronds of bouncing pleats evoking flames and fire, Blazy's collection unfolded as a narrative of transformation and rebirth. Faded motifs of maps hinted at the wanderlust within us all, a reminder of the eternal quest for new horizons. "In times of uncertainty, elegance becomes a symbol of resilience," Blazy reflected. As the world grapples with adversity, his collection serves as a beacon of hope and a celebration of the enduring human spirit. In the act of dressing each day, we affirm our dignity and our capacity to rise from the ashes, renewed and empowered.

JIL SANDER

Lucie and Luke Meier's latest collection for Jil Sander epitomised a rich tapestry of colour and texture, eschewing traditional seasonal themes for a more expansive evolution of their design ethos. Rooted in a quest for balance between sensitivity and form, intimacy and presence, the A/W 2024 collection unfolded within a verdant, immersive capsule adorned with striking cobalt-blue horns, inviting guests into a world where sound and music served as catalysts for emotional exploration. The runway echoed with the melodic strains of a live soundtrack by American singer-songwriter Mk.gee, setting the stage for a journey through the depths of human emotion. Beginning with vibrant molded dresses and impeccably tailored suits, the collection gradually transitioned towards more dramatic silhouettes, evoking the opulence of mid-century haute couture with a series of captivating caped gowns.

Texture and fabrication played pivotal roles, with quilted down and diaphanous chainmail suggesting a sense of protection, while whimsical floral jacquards and fuzzy handbags added a touch of playful charm. Long fronds of tassels trailed gracefully from knitwear, infusing each ensemble with a sense of movement and vitality. At its core, the A/W 2024 collection from Jil Sander was a testament to the brand's commitment to sensory exploration and sartorial innovation. With each piece, Lucie and Luke Meier masterfully crafted a harmonious balance between tradition and modernity, inviting wearers to embark on a transformative journey where every garment tells a story of elegance and grace.

DOLCE & GABBANA

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana reaffirmed their devotion to enduring sartorial elegance with their latest collection, drawing inspiration from the iconic tuxedo. To amplify the collection's timeless allure, the duo assembled a stellar cast of industry luminaries, including Naomi Campbell, Amber Valletta, Mariacarla Boscono, and Eva Herzigova. "The tuxedo is the ultimate symbol of pure style," the designers declared. "For us, only style transcends fashion: the simpler a piece, a classic like the tuxedo, the more perfect it is, eternal, free from the constraints of time." Showcasing a myriad of interpretations of the classic garment, the collection featured tuxedos cropped to the navel, exaggerated in proportion, and elongated into luxurious overcoats. Interwoven with these timeless pieces were touches of glamour and sensuality synonymous with the house's aesthetic.

Lingerie-inspired ensembles provided a captivating counterpoint to the tuxedo's rigor, while enormous feathered coats, glimmering crystal chainmail dresses, and lavish lace and polka dot motifs added a touch of opulence to the runway. "It's a union of contrasts," the designers reflected. "Masculine and feminine, austerity and seduction… allowing every woman the freedom to express her idea of style." With their Tuxedo Collection, Dolce & Gabbana celebrated the harmonious interplay of tradition and innovation, offering women the freedom to embrace their individuality while exuding timeless sophistication and allure.

FERRAGAMO

Maximilian Davis continues to ascend to new heights with a profoundly alluring A/W 2024 collection for Ferragamo, seamlessly blending the past with the present in a masterful display of astute style. Drawing inspiration from the liberatory spirit of the 1920s, Davis embarked on a journey to celebrate freedom through the lens of fashion, a sentiment deeply intertwined with his heritage and the essence of Ferragamo. Echoing the fluidity and rebellious energy of the era, the collection exuded a sense of liberation, with silk halterneck gowns cascading into tassels at their sheer hemlines, reminiscent of the iconic flapper dresses. Layers of transparency adorned garments, imbuing them with a modern sensuality and timeless allure. Inspired by Hollywood icons like Joan Crawford and Greta Garbo, Davis reimagined elements of masculine attire, introducing brilliant wide-shouldered overcoats and tailored pieces with wide buckled waistbands. For men, the defining silhouette emerged with super-abbreviated mini shorts, paired with military-hued tailored jackets and chunky knitwear, evoking a sense of protection and strength.

The collection's outerwear featured cape-like silhouettes and elongated, face-covering collars, paying homage to the clandestine spirit of the speakeasies of the 1920s, where individuals found solace in creating their own spaces of freedom and expression. Completing the lineup were exquisite footwear offerings, including elegant T-bar pumps inspired by archival designs, thigh-high wader boots exuding confidence, and whimsical creations adorned with colourful feathers, embodying the essence of Ferragamo's storied history. With Ferragamo's A/W 2024 collection, Maximilian Davis not only honors the legacy of the brand but also propels it forward with his distinctive vision of timeless elegance and unabashed individuality.

VERSACE

Closing out Friday evening with a thunderous crescendo, Donatella Versace unveiled a co-ed collection pulsating with a rebellious, punkish spirit, impeccably tailored to the Italian house's signature hyper-glamorous style. "The woman is a good girl with a wild soul," declared the visionary designer, capturing the essence of this dichotomy through a striking juxtaposition of prim collared dresses, gold-button blazers, and elongated tweed suits, contrasted with daring lashings of eyeliner, distressed leopard print sweaters, and chainmail-covered jeans provocatively sliced open along the front.

Amidst the electric atmosphere, a parade of molten dresses sculpted the body into a narrow corseted waist, exuding the requisite Versace va-va-voom that caught the eye of actress Anne Hathaway, who graced the front row in one of these captivating creations. Nods to archival prints reverberated throughout both the men's and women's collections, infusing a sense of heritage into the avant-garde tapestry. "This collection embodies a rebel attitude with a kind heart," Donatella elaborated. "Pure lines, innovative fabrications, and considered wildness. This is us. This is Versace." With each ensemble, she reaffirmed the brand's unwavering commitment to pushing boundaries while celebrating the unapologetic spirit of individuality and self-expression.

MARNI

After traversing the globe with shows in New York, Tokyo, and Paris, Marni's creative director Francesco Risso embarked on a poignant homecoming, presenting the latest collection in the evocative setting of the railway arches on Via Ferrante Aporti. Enveloped in crinkled white paper, reminiscent of a papier-mâché igloo, the venue served as a symbolic canvas for a collection that began with a clean slate. Titled 'Bring No Clothes,' a nod to Virginia Woolf's invitation to shed the trappings of societal norms, Risso banished reference images from the studio walls, encouraging his design team to tap into instinct and play. "By casting out the idolatry of mirrors, filled to the brim with conquering dreams, we have returned to an almost animal state," he reflected in the show's accompanying letter of intent.

The collection exuded a primal allure, with sliced panels of fur draped around models' necks and animal prints interwoven with fuzzy, enveloping textures. Childlike creativity flourished in naively painted garments, their raised textures resembling oil paintings, evoking a sense of uninhibited expression. "In returning to that original state of creation, I found inspiration in Virginia Woolf's sentiment of stripping back the punitive structures of clothing," Risso explained. "Here, it's just us—a sense of community that transcends titles and roles." As Marni journeyed back to its roots, Risso invited us to rediscover the essence of creativity, unburdened by societal constraints, and embraced the freedom of self-expression. In this primitive state of creation, the collection resonated with a raw energy and a profound sense of authenticity, reminding us that sometimes, the purest form of artistry emerges from a place of simplicity and connection.

GUCCI

Sabato De Sarno's sophomore womenswear collection epitomised a seamless continuation of his debut, as the Italian designer sought to encapsulate the essence of his native country's style in a contemporary manner, imbued with an air of insouciance and romance. "My dreams, as with my fashion, always converse with reality," he articulated in a pre-show note, setting the stage for an exploration of merging the mundane with the extraordinary. Held in the industrial setting of Fonderia Carlo Macchi, the collection unfolded against a backdrop of raw authenticity. De Sarno's vision embraced the quotidian wardrobe, elevating it with the opulent flourishes of glamour and embellishment courtesy of the Gucci atelier. Mannish overcoats cascaded with a waterfall of sequins and paillettes, while intricately layered lace cami tops and dresses evoked a sense of lingerie-inspired allure. Slouchy knit cardigans sparkled with shimmering crystal-decorated collars, juxtaposing comfort with extravagance.

Tailoring took centre stage, cinched at the waist and paired with abbreviated shorts reminiscent of 1960s silhouettes. An impressive array of leather jackets adorned with the double-G monogram showcased the house's mastery of the material, adding a touch of signature sophistication. The grand finale unveiled a duo of carved strapless gowns, exuding seductive simplicity yet adorned with enough pizzazz to captivate the celebrity-filled front row, including luminaries such as Solange Knowles, Kirsten Dunst, and De Sarno's muse, British actress Daisy Edgar-Jones. "I aim to capture the extraordinary where the ordinary is expected," De Sarno declared, encapsulating his unwavering commitment to redefining the boundaries of contemporary elegance and allure.

SPORTMAX

This season, the Sportmax design team embarked on a captivating journey away from the futuristic austerity of previous collections, drawing inspiration from underground icon Nico and her seminal 1985 album, Camera Obscura. Embracing the enigmatic allure of Nico's persona, the collection exuded a mood of sensuality and intrigue, evoking the mysterious depths hidden within her gaze. A poignant quote from Gerard Malanga, a poet and assistant to Andy Warhol, set the tone for the collection, encapsulating the elusive mystique surrounding Nico: "Nico's eyes seem to guard a great mystery which, hidden in aloofness, they do not want anyone to know exists. Whether or not a mystery is there, the eyes with the enigma of their absence from what surrounds them eclipse the perfection of features and form to add great magnetism."

Against the backdrop of the dimly lit upper corridors of the Triennale di Milano contemporary art museum, models prowled the curved mirrored catwalk, their vertiginous heels pounding with determination. Plunging black mini dresses adorned with spikes exuded a fierce sensuality, while sharp, wide-shouldered tailoring and cinched waists, achieved through clever layering, paid homage to the resolve of a Helmut Newton muse. Echoes of Nico's 1980s contemporaries, including Grace Jones, Debbie Harry, Annie Lennox, and Siouxsie Sioux, reverberated throughout the collection in nostalgic album cover-inspired prints, creating a collage of iconic imagery that celebrated the spirit of the era. Sportmax's exploration of Nico's enigmatic legacy resonated with a modern audience, capturing the essence of her timeless allure and infusing it with contemporary elegance and sophistication. In this evocative homage, the brand transcended fashion to evoke a sense of mystery and magnetism, inviting wearers to embrace their inner intrigue and sensuality.

TOD´S

Matteo Tamburini made a bold statement with his debut Tod's collection, choosing the iconic Messina Tram Depot in northern Milan as the venue—a symbolic gesture of the brand's forward momentum. Against the backdrop of the bustling streets, where yellow Milanese trams proudly sported the Tod's logo, Tamburini unveiled a collection inspired by contemporary Italian elegance and infused with a deep appreciation for local craftsmanship. For both men and women, Tamburini curated a luxurious everyday wardrobe that exuded effortless style. From layers of ribbed knitwear and roomy trench coats to dramatic leather gowns adorned with tassels, the collection showcased a harmonious blend of sophistication and street-inspired energy. Drawing on his experience at Bottega Veneta, Tamburini's expertise shone through in the narrow, streamlined looks that opened the show—featuring sharply cut overcoats, double-layered striped shirts, and gently flared tailored trousers with wide folded hems, presenting a convincingly contemporary silhouette.

Footwear remained the cornerstone of the brand, with Tamburini introducing a modern twist to the classic Gommino loafer for men, featuring a minimal metal bar in place of the traditional tie fastening. For women, the iconic style was adorned with playful fronds of leather tassels, adding a touch of whimsy to the collection. In his debut for Tod's, Matteo Tamburini redefined Italian elegance for the modern age, seamlessly blending tradition with innovation to create a collection that captures the essence of timeless sophistication and urban allure.

PRADA

Prada's A/W 2024 show commenced with an innate attraction to history, unfolding within the same OMA/AMO-designed space as the house's previous menswear presentation. While the setting, adorned with vast Perspex tiles simulating a forest floor, lacked its prior corporate-office-meets-nature juxtaposition, co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons embarked on a profound journey into the fragments of historical dress. Rejecting misty-eyed nostalgia, Prada and Simons delved into the emotional resonance of clothing, emphasizing its capacity to preserve memories and evoke romance. "History, for me, is always connected to the lives of people," remarked Miuccia Prada. "There is a sense of romance to this collection—of values of love and caring embedded in the clothes."

The collection unfolded as a tapestry of feminine adornments, from bows to ruffles, juxtaposed with suggestions of military attire, evoking a haunting duality. Simons noted, "This is not about a narrative history... it's an attraction to different moments in time which now feel new." Dresses adorned with bows, petticoat-style slips, and sculpted tailoring recalled various eras, reshaped to create a richly imagined narrative. However, amidst the opulence, there lay a sense of warning—a reflection on history's lessons and the complexities of the present moment. "Reflecting on history teaches us our mistakes, our strengths," emphasised Miuccia Prada. "This is a collection shaped by history... about remembering our past to move forwards." "In this complicated moment, it is vital to know your history," added Simons. "You can only realise your future if you know your past." Through their meticulous exploration of historical fragments, Prada and Simons crafted a poignant narrative, inviting wearers to engage with the complexities of the past as they navigate an uncertain future.

EMPORIO ARMANI

Emporio Armani's A/W 2024 show concluded with a captivating flurry of snow, casting a surreal backdrop against which Mr. Armani's models gracefully marched, unfazed by the sudden change in weather. The collection, aptly titled "Night Glow," transported viewers into the ethereal realm of the luminous night sky, showcasing a kaleidoscope of eveningwear looks that shimmered with celestial allure. Against a palette spanning from midnight black to mauve, violet, jade green, and tones of grey, the models exuded elegance and sophistication in sequinned tuxedos, shimmering crescent-moon adorned suits, crystal bra tops, and sculpted evening gowns. Each ensemble captured the essence of the night sky, evoking its changing tonal hues and celestial beauty.

Embracing the spirit of freedom that defines Emporio Armani, the collection featured silhouettes designed to empower and inspire. From billowing trousers with sweatpant-style gathered hems to diaphanous organza skirts and boldly coloured flourishes of chubby faux fur, each piece exuded a sense of effortless sophistication and modernity. Amidst the blizzard of style, Emporio Armani's collection emerged as a radiant beacon of elegance and allure, inviting wearers to embrace the enchanting splendor of the night sky and bask in the luminous glow of timeless style.

MAX MARA

For over three decades, Ian Griffiths has curated a distinguished lineage of influential women from history to serve as muses for his Max Mara collections. This season, against the backdrop of a drizzly Milanese morning, Griffiths unveiled his A/W 2024 offering in a luminous former industrial space on Via Giovanni Battista Piranesi, drawing inspiration from the rebellious French author Colette. Renowned for her sensual prose that illuminated the innermost desires of women at the turn of the 20th century, Colette's spirit infused the collection with a seductive allure. Enveloping overcoats crafted from sumptuously soft textures, ribbed knit bands delicately cinching the waist, and asymmetric skirts draped and folded onto the body evoked moments of pleasure and intimacy.

Griffiths' trademark subtle juxtapositions permeated the collection, seamlessly blending weight and lightness, glamour and ease, and the masculine and feminine. A riff on a military officer's coat or a fisherman's sweater paid homage to Colette's defiance of gender norms, reflecting her bold sartorial choices. Echoing Colette's assertion of self-defined beauty, the collection epitomised liberation and self-expression. As articulated by the author herself, "Beautiful? For whom? Why, for myself, of course." With each meticulously crafted piece, Max Mara celebrated the enduring legacy of Colette and her unwavering commitment to individuality and autonomy.

FENDI

The Fendi showspace on Via Solari was transformed into a hypnotic labyrinth of rooms, each partitioned by enormous drapes of coloured silk, setting the stage for a captivating journey through time and style. Creative director of couture and womenswear, Kim Jones, drew inspiration from archival looks of the mid-1980s, infusing the collection with an impressive array of fabric contortions and intricate details. From cinching day-glo strips layered over simple black roll-necks to complex knits crisscrossing over the neck, the collection showcased Fendi's mastery of fabric manipulation. The drapes, reminiscent of Roman statuary, paid homage to the brand's home city, appearing as prints and intricate embroidery on garments. Jones' fascination with Rome's unique elegance, influenced by house scion Delfina Delettrez Fendi, added depth to the collection's narrative.

Delving further into the archive, Jones found inspiration in the vibrant and subversive dress codes of his native London in the 1980s, particularly the New Romantics and figures like Leigh Bowery. Flourishes of polka dots, a signature of Bowery, and bursts of piercing colour contrasted with rigorous, sculpted black tailoring, embodying the liberated spirit of the era. "The sketches reminded me of London during that period: the Blitz Kids, the New Romantics, the adoption of workwear, aristocratic style, Japanese style," explained Jones. "It was a point when British subcultures and styles became global and absorbed global influences. Yet still with a British elegance in ease and not giving a damn what anybody else thinks, something that chimes with Roman style." Fendi's A/W 2024 collection celebrated the intersection of elegance and subversion, weaving together elements of history, culture, and personal narrative to create a rich tapestry of style and self-expression.

NO.21

Alessandro Dell'Acqua's enigmatic portrayal of womanhood at No. 21 continues to intrigue, unveiling a captivating interpretation of bourgeois dress codes in his latest collection. Drawing inspiration from the notion of 'bon ton'—a symbol of elegance and refinement rooted in British high society of the 19th century, and later revived during the haute couture resurgence of the 1980s—Dell'Acqua crafted a collection that exuded nostalgic charm with a contemporary twist. The echoes of the 1980s haute couture era resonated throughout the collection, manifested in plunging black gowns adorned with bows, cocooning double-breasted overcoats, and impeccably tailored tweed suiting. Dell'Acqua's fascination with the decade's avant-garde couture collections breathed new life into his designs, infusing them with a sense of decadence and allure. "It's as if I had cast my gaze deeply into a fashion story and made it come alive again," remarked Alessandro of the collection's nostalgic ambiance.

However, it was Dell'Acqua's penchant for juxtaposition that truly captivated, as functional harness-style fastenings adorned ladylike dresses embellished with crystals, men's brogues were paired with satin strapless gowns, and slouchy Fair Isle jumpers were layered over sheer skirts and pointed pumps. Each ensemble exuded a disruptive sensuality, encapsulating the designers exploration of bourgeois eroticism with conscious sophistication. In his hands, No. 21's A/W 2024 collection emerges as a testament to his mastery of juxtaposition and his ability to evoke a sense of provocative elegance. Through his innovative reinterpretation of bourgeois codes, Dell'Acqua invites wearers to embrace a new paradigm of sensuality and style.