The Uruguayan designer presented her first collection for Richemont-owned Chloé in March 2021, carrying over her sustainability ethos from her namesake brand. At Chloé, her focus on sustainability — supported by president and CEO Riccardo Bellini — has borne fruit. The company achieved B Corp status in October 2021, introduced a social impact measurement tool in 2022, and launched a resale programme using digital IDs for improved transparency in 2023.
Most recently, Hearst worked on a womenswear capsule collection with Atelier Jolie, Angelina Jolie’s new fashion brand, which highlights the work of artisans, and uses deadstock and lower-impact materials. Further details, including its release date, have yet to be announced.
During her tenure, Chloé pursued a brand elevation strategy, drawing on Hearst’s understated aesthetic and passion for craftsmanship. She oversaw the launch of its low-impact Nama sneakers — which have become a bestseller — and the Gayia glasses, made with recycled acetate. She is also behind several collaborations including with Moon Boot, Teva, Barbour and Eres, aimed at widening the Chloé clientele. Her autumn/winter 2023 collection includes refined leather tailoring techniques, “a detail only a customer could appreciate in a shop”, Vogue’s Sarah Mower wrote. “I like it that nothing is gimmicky. They’re not clothes for Instagram,” Hearst said at the time.
“Gabriela has brought great energy and a dynamic creative vision to her role at Chloé, contributing to a period of significant progress for the business, and writing a powerful new chapter in the story of our maison,” Bellini said in a statement. “I look forward to the presentation of the SS24 collection as the culmination of her Chloé journey, which will be a celebration of joy and creativity. I wish her much success and happiness as she focuses on her next creative endeavour.”
Hearst has remained at the helm of her namesake brand, established in 2015, which she has continued to show during New York Fashion Week. In 2019, LVMH Luxury Ventures, the conglomerate’s investment arm, took a minority stake in her brand. She was appointed at Chloé in December 2020.
“I am grateful to have been part of the incredible team laying strong foundations for a purpose-driven future for fashion, and I am so proud of the positive change we have collectively achieved in developing a business and design perspective that puts our people and our environment first,” Hearst said in a statement. “Very few houses have such a history of strong female leaders who have each made their unique contribution to the maison, under the inspirational legacy of its founder Gaby Aghion. I feel empowered and excited about the work done at Chloé and, moreover, to leave a clear message that a woman can do it all and have fun while at it.”
“I am grateful to have been part of the incredible team laying strong foundations for a purpose-driven future for fashion, and I am so proud of the positive change we have collectively achieved in developing a business and design perspective that puts our people and our environment first,” Hearst said in a statement. “Very few houses have such a history of strong female leaders who have each made their unique contribution to the maison, under the inspirational legacy of its founder Gaby Aghion. I feel empowered and excited about the work done at Chloé and, moreover, to leave a clear message that a woman can do it all and have fun while at it.”
Sales across Richemont’s “other” division, which includes Chloé alongside the likes of Montblanc and Alaïa, rose 19 per cent to €2.7 billion in the year ended 31 March 2023. The Swiss conglomerate doesn’t break down revenue by brand, however, Richemont CEO Jérôme Lambert stressed “a positive dynamic” at Chloé during the earnings call in May. According to estimates by Morgan Stanley analyst Edouard Aubin, Chloé’s annual sales were €660 million for the fiscal year ending 31 March, up 26.9 per cent on the year prior.
Chloé was founded by Aghion in 1952. The house has been through many incarnations since, under creative direction from the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo, Hannah MacGibbon, Clare Waight Keller and Natacha Ramsay-Levi. Chloé’s announcement doesn't mention a successor, but the house is known to be committed to female designers.
It’s understood one of the names being considered to take part in Chloé’s next chapter is Chemena Kamali, who has been design director for women’s ready-to-wear at Saint Laurent since July 2016. She worked at Chloé between 2012 and 2015 as head of design for ready-to-wear and design director for pre-collections, according to her LinkedIn profile. Chloé declined to comment.
No comments:
Post a Comment