Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood Renaissance-Inspired S/S'23 Show

While Dame Vivienne Westwood stayed in London to support the national day of strikes on 1 October, Paris Fashion Week saw Andreas Kronthaler present a Renaissance collection inspired by the poet John Donne. Here’s everything you need to know.

The collection was an ode to the Renaissance

Rather than going away for the summer, Andreas Kronthaler spent it in London losing himself in a new book: Super-Infinite: The Transformations of John Donne by Katherine Rundell, a portrait of the metaphysical poet at the court of James I, who was known as a discerning and analytical dresser who understood the power of clothes. “I was extremely into this book of this young writer from Oxford. The way it’s written is fantastic. I got so into it in the last month or so,” the designer said backstage. Kronthaler opened his Vivienne Westwood show with a patent leather dress forged like Renaissance armour and styled with rhinestone-encrusted knight’s boots. The reference only increased from there, in ’80s blazers pleated and skirted like Renaissance jackets, and a virago-sleeved sleeved bodice.

It was inspired by John Donne

“I think everything that happened once resonates now, in one way or another. There’s a thread going through,” Kronthaler said, when asked what the codes of the Renaissance could mean in the world today. “The Renaissance was when England became England and this empire, which has been falling apart for a while.” In his show notes, Kronthaler cited a number of passages from the book, which reflected the time-transcendent, majestic and very cheeky look he created. “John Donne understood that when we get dressed we ask something of the world. All clothes speak: they say desire me, or oh ignore me, or endow my words with greater seriousness than you would were I not wearing this hat.” It’s the same philosophy that underpins the Vivienne Westwood look where confrontational, witty and even spelled-out fashion instantly shapes your character in the eye of the beholder.

It was quite naughty

Presented in the performance venue La Gaité Lyrique – as a nod to the theatricality of John Donne – the show saw an amazing cast of character models including Bella Hadid, Irina Shayk and Amelia Gray climb a podium in sky-high faux-exotic platform heels and boots, cinched into corsets, draped in sumptuous prints, and embraced by lightweight, body-conscious knitwear pieces, which – perhaps paradoxically – enhanced the collection’s sex appeal in various phallic expressions, including contemporary interpretations of the protruding Renaissance cup. “I do like to emphasise that part,” Kronthaler smiled. “I also had this little dick print. I don’t know if you noticed? It’s from a Japanese tattoo from the 19th century.”

Andreas Kronthaler repurposed his own underwear collection

“Playing with historical references, looking at the past; Vivienne has always done this,” Kronthaler said. “In the end, it looks Renaissance.” At Westwood, you can always feel the soul and history of the clothes, but this time Kronthaler increased that impact with a focus on knitwear, which – more than any other materials – reflects the human and the hand-spun. Like last season, he incorporated a number of garments from his personal wardrobe – specifically, all the underwear – which he had repaired and reconditioned. “I have stuff from the ’80s when I was really young. You can’t get this quality anymore. They’re falling to pieces but I thought, I’m going to put some prints and embroideries on them, and just use them.” Did the models know they were wearing Kronthaler’s old undies? “I’m not sure if they did, but some did… They’re immaculate pieces!”

Dame Vivienne Westwood stayed in London

Missing from the audience was one Dame Vivienne Westwood. “When prices are rising faster than wages, food, shelter and clothing costs can become devastating for so many,” she said in an email. “We now have growing numbers of people unable to find affordable housing, we have nurses supplementing their living from food banks, we have ambulances marooned outside hospitals with patients inside – our newspapers are full of a growing fear and desperation in society, normal families worried about the future, unable to afford a decent life. It is in this environment that the Unions across the UK are coordinating a national day of strikes, on the day of our show – 1 October, to demonstrate for a fair distribution of wealth. I’m staying in London this season to support them: ‘Enough is Enough.’”