tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15885243672956247152024-03-17T12:25:38.748+00:00FashionFORÇ NewsFASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.comBlogger5059125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-4095592430095695382024-03-14T18:10:00.003+00:002024-03-14T18:10:44.903+00:00Philipp Plein Signs Home Textile LicensePhilipp Plein’s ambition to deliver his flamboyant style directly to his customers’ homes is inching up a notch. The brand revealed Thursday that it has signed a licensing deal with the publicly listed Caleffi SpA for the design, production, and global distribution of home textiles under the Philipp Plein moniker. Mirabello Carrara SpA, an entity controlled by the Caleffi group, is to operate the partnership.<br /><br />The three-year agreement kicks off in 2025, with the first collection set to be unveiled at the Maison & Objet trade show in Paris in January. “It’s been a true privilege to get in touch with such a company as Mirabello Carrara — and Caleffi Group — which impressed me for its quality, manufacturing prowess and practical and proactive business blueprint,” said Philipp Plein. This marks a new brick in Plein’s plans to build a design and interior ecosystem, plans that commenced in 2022 when the namesake brand revealed a licensing deal for the production and distribution of branded furniture with The Netherlands-based Eichholtz and for wallpapers with Italy-based specialist Zambaiti Parati.<br /><br />“We are extremely glad and proud to be collaborating with Philipp Plein, a synonym for luxury, extravagance and eccentricity all over the world,” said Guido Ferretti, chief executive officer of Mirabello Carrara and a board member of Caleffi SpA. “Unmistakable for their rock and rebellious spirit, Philipp Plein’s creations represent the perfect combination of comfort and style defined by a futuristic and alluring bent, aimed at a dynamic and cosmopolite consumer who wants to stand out with style and originality.”<div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="360" src="https://wwd.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/PHILIPP-PLEIN-1-002.jpg?crop=0px%2C337px%2C3280px%2C1837px&resize=1000%2C563" width="640" /></div><div><br /></div>Based in Viadana, in the outskirts of Mantova, Italy, Caleffi SpA was founded in 1962 by Camillo Caleffi as a luxury home textile manufacturer. It boasts 2,000 stores in Italy and 600 abroad. Listed on the Milan Stock Exchange, the company’s portfolio includes house brands as well as licensed labels including Roberto Cavalli, Diesel and Trussardi, among others. Plein’s move falls in line with another ambition of the outspoken entrepreneur, who in 2021 unveiled plans to venture into hospitality with a dedicated project in Milan, yet to be completed.<br /><br />After unveiling stately headquarters in Milan that year, his road map to grow his company’s scope and reach includes the relaunch of the Plein Sport line; new licensing deals and global store openings; significant distribution plans in China, and an overall enhancement of the womenswear business to rebalance the label’s offering, among other initiatives. Last year the company signed a beachwear license with Area B, following similar deals with manufacturer De Rigo for eyewear collections and with Timex Group Luxury Division for watches and jewelry.</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-30466320134445135452024-03-14T17:53:00.004+00:002024-03-14T18:10:33.857+00:00Stephen Linard DeadStephen Linard, an ’80s London club kid who drew on Gothic, romantic and street dress for his wild, color-drenched looks, has died aged 64, according to his family.Linard, who spent his career working for brands in Japan and Australia before returning to his native England, had been ill for many months and died on March 10 from throat cancer.<br /><br />He wasn’t the best-known ’80s designer, nor was he the most successful to come out of London, but he was a trailblazer, and a talented artist who lived for color and saw fashion in a broad context. “He was the first person who saw clothing as a ‘story’ — this was pre-John Galliano — and had a visual interpretation of fashion. It was the era of MTV, i-D, and The Face and he was styling for those magazines,” said Stephen Jones.<br /><br />Jones knew Linard from his university days at what was then Saint Martins School of Art, now Central Saint Martins. Jones later hired Linard as his very first assistant, and made the hats for Linard’s graduation show. “And for his own collections he designed everything — the hair, the makeup — and the attitude,” said Jones who, like Linard, was a “Blitz Kid.”<br /><br />Both Stephens were regulars at the Tuesday night Blitz club in London’s Covent Garden in 1979 and 1980, outdoing each other with their increasingly flamboyant looks, which they’d often change and tweak multiple times before stepping out. Passionate about creating different personae through the language of clothes, they are credited with birthing the New Romantic movement, in all of its baroque splendor. Those boys and girls were the very opposite of minimalists.<br /><br />In the ’80s, Linard was among the first designers to create Goth looks, and drew on his menswear background to create things like “an organza shirt for men — it was something that just wasn’t done,” said Jones, adding that color — black, faded navy and chocolate — always played a big role in Linard’s designs. He dressed Boy George, David Bowie, the Pet Shop Boys and even the members of U2, in addition to his friends Galliano and Jones, who argued that Linard’s designs were much more than fashion. “They were costumes you’d put on to ‘become’ someone else,” said the milliner.<div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="360" src="https://wwd.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/SL-w-Lesley-Edgar.jpg?w=1000&h=563&crop=1" width="640" /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>Linard branched into womenswear and had a shop near Oxford Street but — as with most young London designers — money was tight and it eventually shut. At other points in his career he worked with great success for Japanese and Australian brands. In the ’90s, Linard joined Drake’s, the Savile Row tailor and haberdashery which had been founded by his second cousin, Michael Drake.</div><div><br /></div><div>There, Linard applied his love of pattern and rich, drenched color to silk-screen designs for foulards, ties and other soft accessories for Drake’s and a variety of other brands. “He used his talent in all kinds of ways, and we worked on so many designs together — he was my first design assistant, and I respected and trusted his opinion,” said Drake. Linard stayed on after Drake sold the company to its current owner, Michael Hill, and continued to immerse himself in pattern and color.<br /><br />“He was an expert colorist, and because of his technical background he knew exactly how all the dyes worked when they were printed onto fabric. He could hand-block prints, and color ancient madder designs,” said Hill referring to the silk printing technique that results in unique shades. “He approached everything with flair,” Hill added.<br /><br />Over the decades Linard’s sense of color endured, and was even celebrated last year with an exhibition of his fashion illustrations at Rogue Gallery in Linard’s hometown of St. Leonards-on-Sea in East Sussex, England. The show, “Stephen Linard: Total Fashion Victim,” featured works from his archives from 1978 to 1983. The gallery’s owner Ray Gange said he was proud to have put it on. “Other celebrated British fashion designers have all had big public exhibitions of their work, and I felt that it wasn’t right that Stephen, with his immense talent and his legendary status, hadn’t. I thought he deserved a show of his own here in his adopted home town,” said Gange. <div><br /></div><div>He said the show was a hit — so much so that the police received complaints about the street being blocked with so many noisy people — an echo of the clubbing days at The Blitz. “On the night, Stephen rose to the occasion like the fashion star he should have always been,” said Gange. Linard is survived by his sister Beverley. A memorial service is being planned, but a date has not been set.</div></div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-55680687079892878272024-03-14T13:01:00.005+00:002024-03-14T13:01:50.819+00:00Walter Chiapponi Exits Blumarine After One SeasonWalter Chiapponi has left Blumarine after just one season as creative director. A successor has not yet been named. The brand did not indicate any reason for the departure, but Chiapponi had been open about his grief throughout 2023, which he called a “horrible year” in an Instagram post in January due to the sudden deaths of his nephew, his friend Davide Renne (shortly after his appointment as Moschino creative director), and his dog.<br /><br />“My thanks for this experience go first and foremost to Marco Marchi [sole director of Eccellenze Italiane Holding, parent company of Blumarine] who made it possible, but also to all those without whom I wouldn’t have been able to express myself as I did. I am especially referring to people I have loved who are no longer with us, but who continue to instil strong emotions in me, to inspire my feelings and my journey,” says Chiapponi in a statement today. “I now want to concentrate on new initiatives and projects with a social and humanitarian scope before returning at a later date, at the right time, to the catwalk.”<div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://media.vogue.co.uk/photos/65f2ec54529b0b63b78a437d/2:3/w_2560%2Cc_limit/blumarine-vogue-business-story.jpg" width="427" /></div><div><br /></div>Chiapponi’s appointment to Blumarine in November came as a surprise for some, signalling a pivot away from the Y2K aesthetic the label had leaned into under Nicola Brognano, who revived the brand following his appointment in 2019. Chiapponi was formerly creative director at quiet luxury label Tod’s; he stepped down in July 2023 and was succeeded by Matteo Tamburini.<br /><br />As anticipated, Chiapponi’s first and only collection for Blumarine was a far cry from Brognano’s aesthetic of butterfly motifs and Y2K silhouettes: for autumn/winter 2024, the brand pivoted to romantic lace brogues, sheer gowns and floral prints on dresses and silk pyjamas. Some showgoers thought the collection lacked direction, but the sense was that we’d yet to see what Chiapponi could do with the brand. “This experience will remain unique at a special moment in Blumarine’s history,” says Marchi. “I am grateful to Walter Chiapponi for pouring so much of himself into this collection. It has been an extraordinary adventure. I wish Walter all the best for the continuation of his journey.”</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-15145403287664221652024-03-14T12:59:00.003+00:002024-03-14T12:59:30.170+00:00Naomi Opens Her Own Fashion ExhibitionAs one of the most famous supermodels in history, it’s hardly surprising that Naomi Campbell is preparing to unveil her own exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum. The display celebrates her extensive creative collaborations, activism and profound cultural influence. To kick off the exhibition in style, Naomi chose to host a fabulous luncheon at The Dorchester, and wore a particularly rare piece of fashion history for the occasion.<br /><br />Dressed in Alexander McQueen – specifically look 47 from the autumn/winter 2000 Eshu collection – Naomi sported a black button-up shirt paired with a slate-grey suit, featuring a single-breasted jacket with an ultra-defined waist and matching pleated, cropped trousers. Her ensemble was finished off with silver jewellery and black patent leather pumps, maintaining a classic yet sophisticated vibe.<div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://media.vogue.co.uk/photos/65f2dafc776c8ec57d8402f7/2:3/w_2560%2Cc_limit/GettyImages-2080878377.jpg" width="427" /></div><br />The exhibition, titled Naomi: in Fashion and sponsored by Boss, promises to be a thrilling experience for fashion enthusiasts. Visitors can expect to see exclusive pieces crafted specifically for Naomi, ranging from creations by Azzedine Alaïa and Valentino to the unforgettable Dolce & Gabbana gown famously worn on the final day of her court-ordered community service. Plus, attendees can marvel at the platform shoes – bearing the inscription “Naomi”, penned in blue ballpoint by a backstage dresser – in which Campbell stumbled at a Vivienne Westwood show. Mark your calendars – the exhibition is scheduled to open its doors on 22nd June.</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-1690007584163864082024-03-13T16:09:00.007+00:002024-03-13T16:10:37.622+00:00Dior Will Present Its Cruise Collection In ScotlandDior will unveil its cruise 2025 collection on June 3 in the gardens of Drummond Castle in Scotland, the French fashion house said Wednesday. The picturesque location in Perthshire near Crieff, a market town famous for its whisky and history of cattle trading, has featured in films including “Rob Roy” as well as the TV series “Outlander,” in which it stood in for the gardens of the Palace of Versailles. Built into a hillside, the castle started life as a fortified tower in the 15th century.<div><br />Its Renaissance-style garden combines the styles of Italian terraces and statuary with French parterres, with a striking 17th century sundial at the center. A beech tree planted by Queen Victoria commemorates her visit in 1842. The castle, which is not open to visitors, is now the seat of Lady Jane Heathcote-Drummond-Willoughby, 28th Baroness Willoughby de Eresby, who was a maid of honor at the coronation of Great Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="360" src="https://wwd.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/SWNS_DRUMMOND_GARDENS_085.jpg?crop=0px%2C0px%2C3992px%2C2234px&resize=1000%2C563" width="640" /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>Dior staged a ball at the nearby Gleneagles Hotel for its spring 1955 collection, the house said in a statement provided exclusively to WWD. Founder Christian Dior drew inspiration from Scotland for a look in his debut collection in 1947 that he christened Écosse. Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of womenswear collections at Dior, is expected to continue her tradition of collaborating with local craftspeople on the annual collection, which has the potential to significantly boost tourism revenues in its destination.<div><div><br />Since the lifting of pandemic-era restrictions, the Dior cruise show has taken place in Mexico City; Seville, Spain; and Athens, Greece. The last time the fashion pack descended on Scotland was in 2012 for the Chanel Métiers d’Art show at Linlithgow Palace near Edinburgh.</div></div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-74958774076277739272024-03-13T16:03:00.007+00:002024-03-13T16:11:00.808+00:00Applications For New York Men’s Day OpenNew York Men’s Day (NYMD), the biannual showcase for emerging men’s and genderless brands, is now accepting applications for the spring 2025 season. The presentations are slated for Sept. 6, during New York Fashion Week.<br /><br />NYMD will feature 10 to 12 designers, each of whom will present in an individual studio space during either a morning or afternoon session. Designers who are selected to participate in the event will have a chance to meet buyers, show their lines to media representatives and network with various industry professionals. NYMD covers 85 percent of the presentation costs for each designer chosen.<div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="427" src="https://s.yimg.com/ny/api/res/1.2/rqF6kYWpFpdhaYaIUaGvFw--/YXBwaWQ9aGlnaGxhbmRlcjt3PTk2MDtoPTY0MDtjZj13ZWJw/https://media.zenfs.com/en/wwd_409/b92e657351fd043416b51605d413b39e" width="640" /></div><div><br /></div>The New York Men’s Day committee for this season includes stylist Memsor Kamarake; Aria Hughes, editorial creative director of Complex Media; Joseph Errico, editor in chief of Grazia USA, and Jian DeLeon, Nordstrom’s men’s fashion and editorial director. To apply, designers can visit newyorkmensday.com and fill out an application. Applications will be accepted until April 12th.</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-86846218040597730972024-03-12T16:29:00.001+00:002024-03-12T16:29:21.426+00:00High & Low: John Galliano“I am going to tell you everything,” says John Galliano mere minutes into High & Low: John Galliano, the documentary on the designer directed by Kevin Macdonald, which will be released in theatres in the US, UK and Ireland on 8 March, with Canada following a week later on the 15th. And when Galliano says everything, he’s not kidding: He doesn’t spare himself over the course of the 116-minute run time of the film – which features contributions from Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Bernard Arnault, Charlize Theron, Amanda Harlech and Rabbi Barry Marcus – as he comes to terms with not just his recent past, but his entire life.<br /><br />Not about his upbringing in south London in the Sixties with his Spanish and Portuguese parents. Not about his student years, where he went full throttle with the hedonistic club scene of Eighties London while still managing to – notoriously – graduate from Central Saint Martins art school with a 10-look collection, Les Incroyables, which has achieved mythic status. And certainly not the cycle of ascent, descent and reascent with his own label, with Dior, and with Maison Margiela while facing addiction issues, departures from reality, and the racist and anti-semitic outbursts in a Paris bar, which brought him and his world crashing down in 2011. “It was a disgusting thing, a foul thing, that I did,” Galliano says. “It was just horrific.”<br /><br />On the phone from London, Macdonald – who previously directed the Academy Award-winning One Day In September, about the murder in 1972 of 11 Israeli Olympic athletes – explains why he wanted to make a documentary about Galliano. “There are two reasons,” he said. First, “John is regarded as one of the great designers of the last hundred years – everyone tells me this guy’s a genius. What does that actually mean in the world of fashion? What does it mean to be one of the greats?”<div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://media.vogue.co.uk/photos/65819d10c4626d89a012c808/2:3/w_2560%2Cc_limit/Galliano%2520-%2520approved%2520image%2520Credit%2520David%2520Harriman.jpg" width="427" /></div><div><br /></div>The other, he goes on to say, was around those antisemitic incidents and the subsequent firing of Galliano from Dior and the ensuing court case in Paris. “We’re living in a time in which – and John’s is really the origin of this for me – well-known people, celebrities, are getting caught by some socially unacceptable behaviour and cancelled in one way or another,” Macdonald said. “I was interested in the question of what happens to you afterwards? Is there a mechanism for forgiveness for that in society?”<br /><br />Much of the power of Macdonald’s film lies in the way that it refuses to neatly lead us to a place of forgiveness – it tacitly acknowledges that the path to that place isn’t one everyone will want to take but is, rather, full of conflicting signposts and complicated diversions. To reduce it to black or white is too simplistic. That Macdonald can do all of this lies in no small part to a subject who, the director acknowledges, was prepared to speak his truth, but understood that not everyone would hear him. (The interviews with the designer were conducted over six days, for four or five hours per day, and with no minder or PR present.)<br /><br />“John knows he will never be forgiven by everybody,” Macdonald said. “He wants to be understood – to have the opportunity to explain as far as he can what happened. And he wants his case to serve as a warning. But he was also concerned not to make his story too depressing. At the end, he says his story isn’t actually depressing, because he has come out of everything with a renewed life and a renewed sense of vigour and creativity.”</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-80950766758518549342024-03-09T15:17:00.006+00:002024-03-09T16:17:35.548+00:00Art Dubai 2024Amidst the backdrop of global and regional tensions, Art Dubai 2024 emerges as a beacon of creative exchange and harmonious rejuvenation. With its captivating blend of artistry, design, and intellectual discourse, this year's event promises an unparalleled experience. As the premier platform for art from the MENA and South Asia regions, Art Dubai 2024 presents a rich tapestry of cultural offerings that captivate the senses and ignite the imagination.<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBPoD8C6LmiMgpNGSqwB7JZGTjQOzUjboaEfxPo1O3i0ClFMo98H8GlSOHufV7eAzskj2CSmzK9nfi7OFkV8El6S6JC2qvuUw2sByR_-IOvLibvlvfwVpTyjmsWMi6_fpoQPzJKWt1cUakef2hjj-kXywJX1re90Mk5wHirUdAhpcCJ3Sw4EB6TriLTzE/s768/2.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="512" data-original-width="768" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBPoD8C6LmiMgpNGSqwB7JZGTjQOzUjboaEfxPo1O3i0ClFMo98H8GlSOHufV7eAzskj2CSmzK9nfi7OFkV8El6S6JC2qvuUw2sByR_-IOvLibvlvfwVpTyjmsWMi6_fpoQPzJKWt1cUakef2hjj-kXywJX1re90Mk5wHirUdAhpcCJ3Sw4EB6TriLTzE/w640-h426/2.png" title="(Image credit: Art Dubai 2024. Installation view. Credit_ Spark Media)" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">(Image credit: Art Dubai 2024. Installation view. Credit_ Spark Media)</div><div><div><br /></div><div>Featuring 120 presentations curated from over 60 cities and spanning across 40 countries, Art Dubai 2024 showcases four distinct sections: Contemporary, Bawwaba, Art Dubai Modern, and Art Dubai Digital. Among the myriad highlights are groundbreaking commissions and premieres by globally acclaimed artists. Notably, the debut of 'Heart Space' by visionary digital artist Krista Kim, presented by Julius Baer as part of its esteemed NEXT initiative, promises to captivate audiences with its innovative approach to artistry.<br /><br />Distinguished as hosting 'the most extensive education, talks and thought-leadership programme of any international art fair', this year's edition of Art Dubai also features the prestigious Global Art Forum. Led by commissioner Shumon Basar and curator Nadine El-Khoury, this flagship summit explores the intricate relationship between extreme weather phenomena and societal transformation.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEiT3VcPKa3Obeom3H8AkMhQ_i9j8LCJuWq9XrfgJyNdd1XehzO1ypMC-0SzFubKFPy25_Hg6Sx0LjKOhK9IlhyphenhyphenJkpkof2xOlb8e2IyK7Kwms1mg4Oa9LHYnKEyNLcwpYPswrUZDs8bEy4gZ6qV5_gGVqeDl7sgf52dGWCnZDXVTElm5oYZ2CStUS52d4/s1152/3.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEiT3VcPKa3Obeom3H8AkMhQ_i9j8LCJuWq9XrfgJyNdd1XehzO1ypMC-0SzFubKFPy25_Hg6Sx0LjKOhK9IlhyphenhyphenJkpkof2xOlb8e2IyK7Kwms1mg4Oa9LHYnKEyNLcwpYPswrUZDs8bEy4gZ6qV5_gGVqeDl7sgf52dGWCnZDXVTElm5oYZ2CStUS52d4/w426-h640/3.png" width="426" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">(Image credit: Art Dubai 2024. Installation view. Credit_ Spark Media)</div></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Under the esteemed patronage of His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice President and Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai, Art Dubai 2024 stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of cultural collaboration. In partnership with ARM Holding and sponsored by the esteemed Swiss wealth management group, Julius Baer, the fair brings together a constellation of international galleries in a celebration of artistic ingenuity.<br /><br />´<i>Bawwaba, translating to 'gateway' in Arabic, offers a curated selection of solo presentations from artists hailing from the Global South. Conceived by esteemed curator Emiliano Valdés, this section serves as a platform for contemplation and healing, engaging with pressing social and political themes whilst fostering a sense of community and belonging</i>.´ - Charles Daniel McDonald<br /><br />Art Dubai Modern, curated by Dr. Christianna Bonin, delves into the geopolitical landscape of the Global South following the Second World War. With a focus on artists who traversed Cold War-era exchanges and studied in Soviet metropoles, this section offers a compelling exploration of artistic expression amidst historical upheaval.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMLztyER_6B-unFl1gDwS8JDtGhJhtIGG1ncbski9dtS7uZlMAQN8J1TXMDF5wSv5nMN3Lb2BYXARaeg3RdbNBcHeQTk8-mHwbhhP1JAtpK3fstetULsz9_qqxnDdbn4qnbabD3ZmgKYJEuV9YRcc_40JvFJ0uJZaDVP4bMSk1oPKTnCAOk9JLUOw5nao/s1152/4.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMLztyER_6B-unFl1gDwS8JDtGhJhtIGG1ncbski9dtS7uZlMAQN8J1TXMDF5wSv5nMN3Lb2BYXARaeg3RdbNBcHeQTk8-mHwbhhP1JAtpK3fstetULsz9_qqxnDdbn4qnbabD3ZmgKYJEuV9YRcc_40JvFJ0uJZaDVP4bMSk1oPKTnCAOk9JLUOw5nao/w426-h640/4.png" width="426" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">(Image credit: Cedric Ribeiro for Getty Images)</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Meanwhile, Art Dubai Digital, curated by Auronda Scalera and Alfredo Cramerotti, ventures into the realm of new media art and technology. Through the lens of advanced technologies such as AI, AR, and VR, this section offers a glimpse into the future of artistic expression and cultural perception. As the 17th edition of Art Dubai unfolds at the prestigious Madinat Jumeirah from 1 to 3 March 2024, visitors are invited to embark on a transformative journey through the boundless realms of artistic innovation and cultural exploration.</div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-82477054685099935212024-03-08T17:36:00.007+00:002024-03-08T17:50:03.498+00:00Christian Dior’s Defining Silhouettes<div>In 1947, Christian Dior revolutionised the fashion industry with the launch of his eponymous fashion house and a captivating collection. The backdrop was Paris, recently liberated from Nazi occupation, and Dior himself had just broken free from Lucien Lelong's design house, where he had worked since 1942. Termed the 'New Look' by Carmel Snow, the influential editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar, Dior's collection defied the austerity of the post-war era with its opulent designs. One standout piece, the iconic bar suit featuring an ivory, cinched-waist jacket paired with a full, pleated black skirt, quickly gained acclaim for its bold new silhouette. Now, inspired by Snow's apt descriptor, Apple TV+ presents "The New Look," a ten-part drama delving into the history of fashion, chronicling Dior's journey through World War II and the genesis of his groundbreaking style.<br /><br />Karen Muller Serreau, the show's costume designer, recalls her grandmother's tales of Dior's iconic silhouette, which symbolized hope and progress. Created by Todd A. Kessler, the series introduces us to Dior (portrayed by Ben Mendelsohn) in 1955, as he prepares to address eager design students at the Sorbonne. However, an audience question transports us back to 1943, immersing us in the challenges of occupied Paris, a setting that would later infuse Dior's designs with profound significance. "I can understand its hopeful impact," reflects Muller Serreau. "As we recreated it, we felt the anticipation building, especially when we approached the unveiling of the bar suit. It was a moment of awe and relief, much like it must have been for people at that time, to see such elegance and abundance amidst hardship."</div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="427" src="https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/josShtLtfGojrzoHGCnrLK-415-80.jpeg" width="640" /></div><br /></div><div>Running alongside Dior's narrative is the story of Coco Chanel, portrayed by Juliette Binoche. While Dior maneuvers through crafting party dresses for Nazi officers' wives to survive the war and worries about his sister Catherine (played by Maisie Williams), who is imprisoned for her involvement in the French Resistance, Chanel's tale unfolds quite differently. Despite purportedly closing her atelier in an act of patriotism, Chanel is depicted living at The Ritz, engaging in an affair with a Nazi agent. The rivalry between Dior and Chanel, along with the evolution of their fashion houses, forms the crux of "The New Look."</div><br />Costume designer Karen Muller Serreau found dressing Binoche and Williams' characters particularly enjoyable, although Chanel presented a unique challenge due to the scarcity of visual references from that period of her life. Muller Serreau aimed to capture Chanel's essence while avoiding stereotypical portrayals. Chanel's own fashion philosophy, such as her famous advice to remove one piece of jewellery before leaving the house, served as a guiding principle. Catherine's character, on the other hand, required a nuanced approach, transitioning from being Dior's sister and former model to a member of the resistance, necessitating a more subdued wardrobe to blend into the background.<br /><br />The stark contrast between the glamour of the fashion world and the harsh reality of wartime was a recurring theme throughout production. Muller Serreau notes the intriguing juxtaposition between scenes of wartime austerity and the luxurious attire featured in Dior's debut fashion show. With only two scripts available at a time, the production team was constantly surprised by the unfolding storyline. "The New Look" offers viewers a glimpse into this captivating era, exploring themes of survival, rivalry, and the transformative power of fashion.<br /><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-75579220325007198262024-03-08T07:04:00.006+00:002024-03-08T07:15:38.254+00:00Rive Droit - Retail ArchitectureIn the pulsating heart of Paris' 6th arrondissement, where the essence of bohemian elegance intertwines with artistic flair, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(designer)">Yves Saint Laurent</a> ignited a sartorial revolution. In September 1966, the legendary couturier unveiled his avant-garde masterpiece – the first <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rive_Gauche#:~:text=The%20Rive%20Gauche%20(French%20pronunciation,Droite)%20is%20to%20the%20right.">Rive Gauche</a> boutique, nestled at 21 Rue de Tournon. Transforming a quaint former antique store into a sanctuary of style, Saint Laurent shattered conventions by introducing ready-to-wear clothing within the realm of haute couture. "I'd had enough of making dresses for jaded billionaires," declared the visionary designer, embarking on a mission to democratise fashion. His pioneering venture not only captured the spirit of the Left Bank but also transcended geographical boundaries, with subsequent Rive Gauche emporiums gracing the fashion capitals of London and New York. In 1969, the trailblazing spirit extended to men's fashion, as <a href="https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiT8Jr-9-KEAxWak2gJHXM9DaIYABABGgJ3Zg&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAiA6KWvBhAREiwAFPZM7l6L9buXH4qJCUPiUiNmW7tZKxazOrx8R847tgJwZYxMzZ61WsjzUhoCRlYQAvD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVeD2wCT4km0fa_gmUwXpubhbDz1pMGBNTdk2JBJFRsnpNrMqGOMtKglNDOjUq86gZQN00RupFeEF9HB0iWDF9OMd-LL0aecW8nauRdLpPNq9CrLrGEQ&sig=AOD64_15BM_P7izXs1IQqmrzDln7wgFjaQ&q&nis=4&adurl&ved=2ahUKEwitlZD-9-KEAxXG_rsIHWDRC8AQ0Qx6BAgGEAE">Saint Laurent</a> unveiled an outpost dedicated to the modern gentleman.<br /><br />Fast forward to 2011, where an enthralling exhibition titled '<a href="https://museeyslparis.com/expositions-fondation/saint-laurent-rive-gauche-la-revolution-de-la-mode">La révolution de la mode</a>' unveiled the profound legacy of Rive Gauche. Revered as a crucible of innovation, the iconic fashion house seamlessly merges heritage with contemporary allure. Under the stewardship of the visionary creative director, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anthony_Vaccarello">Anthony Vaccarello</a>, each season unfolds as a symphony of seduction, reimagining Yves Saint Laurent's timeless aesthetic through a modern lens. Embracing the house's Parisian heritage, Vaccarello's spellbinding collections grace the runways against the majestic backdrop of the Eiffel Tower. As twilight descends, the iconic landmark bathes the showcase in its luminous embrace, a testament to the eternal allure of Yves Saint Laurent's enduring legacy.<div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="512" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/3.png" width="640" /> Inside Saint Laurent - Lorenzo Meloni</div><br />In a bold stride towards redefining luxury retail, Anthony Vaccarello unveiled his visionary concept, Rive Droite ('Right Bank'), in 2019, echoing the democratic spirit of its predecessor, Rive Gauche. Nestled on <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rue_Saint-Honor%C3%A9">Rue Saint-Honoré</a>, within the hallowed walls once occupied by the revered concept store <a href="https://www.colette.fr/">Colette</a>, Vaccarello's brainchild emerges as a modern-day wunderkammer. Here, an eclectic ensemble of one-of-a-kind projects and collaborations finds its home, spanning fascinating exhibitions, <a href="https://www.ysl.com/fr-be/displayname-saint-laurent-babylone-landing-page">art books</a>, and an array of Saint Laurent-branded ephemera. From sleek skateboards to artisanal bicycles, avant-garde speakers to designer coffee cups, Rive Droite beckons the discerning connoisseur into a realm where creativity knows no bounds.<br /><br />´<i>In a testament to Saint Laurent's perpetual quest for innovation, Rive Droite's influence extended across the Atlantic, as a sister store graced the illustrious <a href="https://www.ysl.com/en-us/storelocator/beverlyhills-rodeodrive">Rodeo Drive</a> in Los Angeles later that same year. Embodying the ethos of a brand that thrived on youthful rebellion during the iconic 1960s and 1970s, Vaccarello emphasised, "Saint Laurent was a very youthful brand... It shouldn't become something sacred and untouchable</i>."´ - Charles Daniel McDonald<br /><br />Venturing further into uncharted territory, the house unveiled its most ambitious endeavor to date on the iconic Parisian thoroughfare, <a href="https://www.ysl.com/en-fr/storelocator/paris-avenuedeschampselys%C3%A9es">Champs-Élysées</a>. Positioned amidst the historic boulevard's revival, this flagship establishment serves as the quintessential embodiment of Vaccarello's reimagined 'store concept' for Saint Laurent. Building upon the tantalising glimpse offered by the <a href="https://www.ysl.com/en-fr/storelocator/paris-boulevardst.germain">Boulevard Saint-Germain</a> outpost in 2022, this monumental inauguration signals a new chapter in the maison's storied legacy. As the Champs-Élysées experiences a resurgence with a flurry of fashion openings and significant renovations, including the grandiose <a href="https://eu.louisvuitton.com/eng-e1/homepage">Louis Vuitton</a> 'project' at number 103, anticipation mounts for the forthcoming <a href="https://www.paris2024.org/en/">Olympic spectacle</a>. In this vibrant landscape of reinvention, Saint Laurent's timeless allure shines brighter than ever, casting a spell of elegance and innovation upon the City of Light.</div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="512" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/2-2.png" width="640" /> Bespoke, Contemporary Interiors - Lorenzo Meloni</div><br />"I wanted to realise one of Yves Saint Laurent's wishes when he arrived in Paris and said he wanted his name to be written in fiery letters on the Champs-Élysées," reveals Vaccarello, as he unveils Saint Laurent's grandiose outpost at number 123. Behind the ornate <a href="https://www.thespruce.com/what-is-haussmann-architecture-5180196">Haussmannian</a> façade of the 19th-century building – meticulously renovated for this prestigious project – lies a sanctuary of sartorial opulence. Within its stone-clad chambers, Vaccarello's latest collections find their home, echoing the designer's relentless pursuit of monumental elegance, often epitomised by the striking silhouette.<br /><br />*Drawing inspiration from architectural marvels and avant-garde aesthetics, Vaccarello's menswear showcases stand as a testament to his visionary philosophy. Adorned with dramatically pitched shoulders and impeccably tailored waistlines, these ensembles grace modernist locales akin to temples of haute couture. From <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tadao_Ando">Tadao Ando</a>'s concrete-clad rotunda at the Parisian gallery <a href="https://www.pinaultcollection.com/fr/boursedecommerce">Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection</a> to Berlin's iconic <a href="https://www.smb.museum/museen-einrichtungen/neue-nationalgalerie/home/">Neue Nationalgalerie</a> designed by <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ludwig_Mies_van_der_Rohe">Mies van der Rohe</a> in 1968, each venue serves as a canvas for Vaccarello's daring creativity.</div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="512" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/7.png" width="640" /> Interior Design By Vaccarello - Lorenzo Meloni</div><br />The Neue Nationalgalerie, with its stark architectural lines and modernist allure, left an indelible mark on Vaccarello's monumental <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxcaVjjGnlg">Spring/Summer 2024</a> womenswear showcase. Produced by the renowned <a href="https://bureaubetak.com/">Bureau Betak</a>, the event featured an eclectic array of colossal stone and marble walls adorning the runway. Described by the house as "a modernist set of kaleidoscopic, mineral surfaces, affording views of the Eiffel Tower while highlighting its soft elegance," this breathtaking spectacle epitomises Saint Laurent's timeless fusion of innovation and sophistication. In this captivating narrative of design fusion, the store emerges as an organic extension of the enthralling runway set, embodying Vaccarello's vision for the Spring/Summer 2024 collection – a subtle shift towards simplicity and pragmatism, yet infused with the assertive sophistication synonymous with the Saint Laurent ethos.<br /><br />As one traverses the threshold into the double-height foyer, a symphony of undulating textures envelops the senses. Marble and stone, with their raw, cracked allure, dominate the space, extending seamlessly throughout the four-floored sanctuary. Here, amidst the simple rails of clothing, a seductive assemblage of surfaces unfolds – some rugged and brutal, others softer and more refined, reminiscent of lapis lazuli embedded in rock. It is a spectacle that evokes a mood of unparalleled sophistication, modernity, and timelessness.</div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/5-1.png" width="511" /> </div><div style="text-align: center;">Contemporary Cool - Lorenzo Meloni</div><br />Within this architectural marvel, echoes of artistic mastery reverberate. Works by the esteemed American sculptor, <a href="https://juddfoundation.org/">Donald Judd</a>, grace the space, including a pair of painted aluminum chairs that stand as testaments to minimalist elegance. Wooden seating by the visionary Austrian-born American architect, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rudolph_Schindler_(architect)">Rudolph Schindler</a>, alongside custom-made marble display tables, continue the narrative of architectural reduction, inviting patrons to immerse themselves in a realm of refined simplicity.<br /><br />Ascending to the upper floor unveils a VIP suite, a contemporary ode to Yves Saint Laurent's legendary haute couture salon. Here, an immense circular mirror reflects the essence of indulgence and exclusivity, while glass doors beckon towards a lush private garden sanctuary. Vaccarello's aspiration is clear – to transport visitors into a realm where time stands still, where the allure of the space transcends the distractions of modernity. It is an invitation to disconnect from the digital world and bask in the sheer splendour of the sensory experience.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/4-2.png" width="511" /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;">Installation By Cerith Wyn Evans - Lorenzo Meloni</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>If the fiery letters of Yves Saint Laurent's name do not entirely blaze as he once desired, fear not, for within the foyer hangs a bewitching neon light sculpture by the visionary Welsh conceptual artist, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerith_Wyn_Evans">Cerith Wyn Evans</a>. Illuminated tendrils of intertwined shapes and forms cast a radiant glow, serving as a luminous waymarker for Vaccarello's architectural odyssey. As guests navigate through the ethereal glow of Wyn Evans' creation, they are transported into the realm of Vaccarello's luminous architectural vision. Here, the couturier's legacy is not merely preserved but reimagined anew, each flickering beam a testament to the eternal evolution of style and innovation.<br /><br />In this enchanted space, where art and architecture converge, Vaccarello breathes new life into Saint Laurent's timeless legacy, crafting a narrative that transcends the boundaries of time and space. It is a tribute to the enduring spirit of creativity and reinvention, where the luminous essence of Yves Saint Laurent's name shines brightly for generations to come.</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-16138810826697186312024-03-07T18:02:00.003+00:002024-03-07T18:05:57.627+00:00Secret Saint<div style="text-align: left;">In a clandestine convergence of fashion and art, the enigmatic aura of <a href="https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiU397ix-KEAxVsPQYAHaSxAxUYABACGgJ3cw&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAiA6KWvBhAREiwAFPZM7jTGMQ0x8H42T1AV4mx__Od5wKElhE-MY1jhGK_knRQNeW2YhzGuuhoCiVYQAvD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVeD2Snko8tiHp3bEAX5RshME5EsnqXlwKVZuIR7_wY21r1pbZHw3K8Fq_LatjcQi6AM8kk3_RRZgaHDl0ML94ekwD8KZ5OFBj3dE0lhxsNC1AL-lX7k&sig=AOD64_38QbPdoCojPSIhQK6ax-xz9b8rRg&q&nis=4&adurl&ved=2ahUKEwjx7tTix-KEAxWk1wIHHfTcCFwQ0Qx6BAgGEAE">Saint Laurent</a>'s secret show finally materialised on Tuesday evening. Against the backdrop of <a href="https://www.fhcm.paris/en/paris-fashion-week">Paris Fashion Week</a> A/W 2024's crescendo, <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/anthony-vaccarello-1">Anthony Vaccarello</a> unveiled his latest menswear opus within the architectural marvel of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tadao_Ando">Tadao Ando</a>-designed rotunda, nestled within the <a href="https://www.pinaultcollection.com/fr/boursedecommerce">Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection</a>. While the bustling British press embarked on their swift motorbike taxi journey toward the Eurostar station, enticed by <a href="https://eu.louisvuitton.com/eng-e1/homepage">Louis Vuitton</a>'s grand decadal celebration curated by <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nicolas_Ghesqui%C3%A8re">Nicolas Ghesquière</a> at <a href="https://www.louvre.fr/en">The Louvre</a>, a privileged coterie gravitated toward a different spectacle. Through a carefully orchestrated invitation, an exclusive cohort embarked on a brief sojourn, a mere five-minute jaunt, to the contemporary enclave. The venue, a testament to modernity and heritage, emerged from the ashes of a former corn store, its circular silhouette paying homage to its storied past as the city's bustling stock exchange, revitalised in 2021 for its new artistic purpose.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/4-1.png" width="427" /></div><br />Ando's masterful touch within the spaces main chamber, nestled beneath the expansive original cast-iron dome, served as the dramatic canvas for Vaccarello's <a href="https://www.ysl.com/en-us/displayname-collections-page-show-mwinter23">A/W 2023 menswear</a> spectacle in January of the preceding year. The austere beauty of the Japanese architect's cylindrical concrete creation echoes the monumental precision inherent in <a href="https://www.instagram.com/anthonyvaccarello/?hl=en">Vaccarello</a>'s collections – often characterised by a distinctive recurring silhouette – while evoking the seamless dialogue between bygone eras and the contemporary ethos at the core of <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ysl">Saint Laurent</a>. In the words of Ando himself, spoken during the gallery's inaugural ceremony, "It was about revitalising the historic monument: paying homage to the city's legacy etched within its walls, and introducing a new structure within. A composition fostering a dynamic conversation between tradition and innovation, fostering a space teeming with vitality as befits a sanctuary dedicated to contemporary art." This sentiment resonates deeply within the gallery, which now proudly houses the curated collection of François Pinault, the visionary founder behind the esteemed <a href="https://www.kering.com/en/">Kering group</a>, of which Saint Laurent stands as a cherished jewel within the luxury conglomerate's crown.<div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/5.png" width="427" /></div><br />For this latest spectacle, the models emerged from one of the rotunda's enchanting openings, adorned with delicate accents of calla lilies, anemones, and orchids, a reverential nod to the iconic shows of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(designer)">Yves Saint Laurent</a>. Stepping onto the plush carpeted expanse, they embarked on a smooth-as-silk journey along the circular runway. The aesthetic was imbued with an air of nonchalant sophistication, featuring double-breasted silhouettes, generously wide-shouldered tailoring, and elegantly draped trench coats, all reminiscent of the suave office attire of the 1980s. Amidst this sartorial symphony, flashes of vibrant ties added a playful pop of colour, evoking a sense of nostalgia for an era of corporate chic. However, amidst this homage to decades past, Vaccarello unveiled unexpected twists, with high-necked silk tops and oversized rubber jackets and hats serving as captivating diversions from the expected. Unlike his recent menswear ventures, which embraced elements of glamour and romance through intricate pussybow fastenings and fluid, draped silhouettes, this collection exuded a different allure. The loose, relaxed tailoring echoed the liberated spirit of <a href="https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwil46zJy-KEAxVGkIMHHXRKD5gYABAAGgJlZg&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAiA6KWvBhAREiwAFPZM7tfzFIipZXzrol3Jlxp8uE-BVvwBrwd0drwJkVg1do5XqK6fMd668RoCmGMQAvD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVeD2JtWIbYAF_hM2aXUR8cClBj0pE5aDedbNxXgpnRYHsHnHOfqwTzAAvkvsh6fO1GVjidBP17U8ymXe7BDufaCUfPM4Uf73ha9ODx2XmIdFXV88W9k&sig=AOD64_33OyCm6ZReXTKvPSzuzSv_wUJnrw&q&nis=4&adurl&ved=2ahUKEwiNlaTJy-KEAxW_7bsIHUYlBbgQ0Qx6BAgJEAE">Giorgio Armani</a>'s groundbreaking menswear creations of the 1980s, epitomised by the iconic costumes worn by <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Gere">Richard Gere</a> in "<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_Gigolo">American Gigolo</a>."</div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/2-1.png" width="427" /></div><br />As Vaccarello described, the initial formality of the opening ensembles gradually gave way to a sense of fluidity and ease as the show unfolded—a deliberate evolution that created an illusion of fabric transcending its solidity and melting into liquid elegance. Thus, amidst the grandeur of the setting and the sophistication of the designs, a new narrative of sensuality emerged, capturing the essence of a modern dandy traversing through time and style. Continuing Saint Laurent's illustrious journey through the realms of art and architecture, Vaccarello's latest showcase follows the trailblazing footsteps of the S/S 2024 menswear extravaganza. Set against the backdrop of Berlin's iconic <a href="https://www.smb.museum/museen-einrichtungen/neue-nationalgalerie/home/">Neue Nationalgalerie</a>, a masterpiece of modernist design crafted by the legendary <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ludwig_Mies_van_der_Rohe">Ludwig Mies van der Rohe</a> in one of his crowning achievements, the stage was set for an unparalleled fusion of fashion and architectural brilliance. Vaccarello's penchant for traversing diverse landscapes with his menswear presentations is no secret. From the windswept dunes of the Moroccan desert to the sun-kissed shores of Malibu, California, each locale serves as a canvas for his visionary storytelling. This peripatetic approach, alternating between the grandeur of Paris and the allure of far-flung destinations, imbues each collection with a sense of wanderlust and adventure, inviting the audience on a journey beyond the confines of tradition and expectation.</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-6663342254848530602024-03-06T16:13:00.005+00:002024-03-06T16:13:45.972+00:00Paolo Carzana Is The London Designer Courting HollywoodInsider eyes have been watching the Welsh designer Paolo Carzana ever since he graduated from Westminster University in 2018 with a revelation scribbled in a sketchbook: “Imagine if we could be the ones to change it all.” His plaintive designs – crafted from his small studio at the Sarabande Foundation, where he hand dyes upcycled fabrics with spices, wild plants and therapeutic oils – are dressings to bind a wound, delicate and lyrical and often produced on less than a dime.<br /><br />It’s spirit raising, then, to see this designer’s work being platformed on the backs of some of the world’s most famous women. Earlier this month, Law Roach styled Zendaya in one of Carzana’s spring/summer 2024 ensembles, and just last night, Michaela Coel was photographed in a custom, hand-whorled gown while hosting Net a Porter’s Incredible Women Dinner at the V&A. She looked like one of the museum’s Bernini sculptures had been bewitched with life. The other celebrities in attendance – Gillian Anderson, Lisa Eldridge and Kate Winslet – wore tailoring.<div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://media.vogue.co.uk/photos/65e84b133a89cbb8b9505073/2:3/w_2560%2Cc_limit/GettyImages-2054039185.jpg" width="427" /></div><div><br /></div>It is almost impossible not to be struck with emotion when sitting at one of Carzana’s presentations, where his cast amble hand in hand, enveloped in wispy layers of ecru, pale pink and chartreuse. At times, his organza tailoring and antique chiffon shirts look as though they might have grown out of the nervous system to form a protective film around his models, their gossamer sleeves trailing behind them like shackles. There is a reason why the fashion critic Sarah Mower has described this designer as “a wonder to the fashion world”, likening his outlier talent to Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. It will take a couple more big names to provide Carzana with the on-ramp he so deserves.</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-8632808707268771842024-03-05T19:08:00.003+00:002024-03-06T17:10:55.023+00:00Paris Fashion Week A/W´24As <a href="https://www.fhcm.paris/en/paris-fashion-week">Paris Fashion Week</a> A/W 2024 draws to a close, it marks the grand finale of a whirlwind fashion month that spanned <a href="https://nyfw.com/">New York</a>, <a href="https://londonfashionweek.co.uk/">London</a>, and <a href="https://milanofashionweek.cameramoda.it/en">Milan</a>. Over nine glittering days, the world's fashion elite anticipate spectacular showcases from the industry's titans. Louis Vuitton, slated to close the week on Tuesday evening, is poised to celebrate Nicolas Ghesquière's remarkable ten-year tenure as creative director. Speculation abounds whether Ghesquière will unveil a retrospective of his iconic designs or venture into uncharted territory. Regardless, anticipation runs high for a star-studded affair and breathtaking runway presentation.<br /><br />´<i>Dior set the stage with a nostalgic nod to its groundbreaking ready-to-wear collection, Miss Dior, launched in 1967. Against the backdrop of Indian artist Shakuntala Kulkarni's sculptures, Maria Grazia Chiuri captured the era's spirit of liberated femininity, weaving it into her collection. Saint Laurent delivered a sensually charged show, with Anthony Vaccarello unveiling an audacious collection featuring almost entirely sheer garments. Inspired by Marilyn Monroe's iconic 'naked dress' from 1962, the collection exuded allure and sophistication.</i>´ - Charles Daniel McDonald<br /><br />Elsewhere, Nicolas di Felice presented a collection characterised by sensual symmetry at Courrèges, while Acne Studios offered a bold clash of elevated femininity and biker attitude. Jonathan Anderson explored aristocratic dress codes with a contemporary twist at Loewe, while Chemena Kamali debuted her vision at Chloé. Notably, the fashion world awaited the debut collection of Irish designer Seán McGirr for Alexander McQueen, following his assumption of the creative helm last September. With each designer's unique perspective, Paris Fashion Week A/W 2024 promises to leave an indelible mark on the fashion landscape.<br /><br /><div><b>LOUIS VUITTON</b><br /></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTkWxvIFvx1FvD_u-38kdM9DxOO9Yo9M2j5AfyRcTqZ1EYWlR80gok4pqd1n5X_x0UirLzvg_megNcjR-bWXngXy7JtbHVn_XH1z2qkWBXjB9BwsIpCMf1DV_Uk_EK1aqYuWdf2Ego7PlX0ISgmv0h5p7gwyN633DGD-nHiM5_rZtjNo_IgOEfH0yq_Lg/s1152/lv.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTkWxvIFvx1FvD_u-38kdM9DxOO9Yo9M2j5AfyRcTqZ1EYWlR80gok4pqd1n5X_x0UirLzvg_megNcjR-bWXngXy7JtbHVn_XH1z2qkWBXjB9BwsIpCMf1DV_Uk_EK1aqYuWdf2Ego7PlX0ISgmv0h5p7gwyN633DGD-nHiM5_rZtjNo_IgOEfH0yq_Lg/w426-h640/lv.png" width="426" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In a grand finale to fashion week, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nicolas_Ghesqui%C3%A8re">Nicolas Ghesquière</a> took centre stage, marking his remarkable ten-year journey with <a href="https://eu.louisvuitton.com/eng-e1/homepage">Louis Vuitton</a> by reimagining his past collections in a dazzling new light. With over 4,000 guests in attendance, including Louis Vuitton's dedicated staff, the event unfolded as a triumph of design, solidifying Ghesquière's position as a defining force in contemporary fashion. Set against the majestic backdrop of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cour_Carr%C3%A9e">Cour Carrée</a> at the Louvre, where Ghesquière unveiled his inaugural collection in 2014, the atmosphere was charged with anticipation. Unlike his debut, where sunlight flooded the space through colossal metal blinds, this time, the stage was transformed into a captivating spectacle by artist <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Philippe_Parreno">Philippe Parreno</a> and film production designer <a href="https://www.jameschinlund.com/">James Chinlund</a>. Their breathtaking light installations, anchored by a colossal orb emitting flashes of brilliance, set the stage for an unforgettable experience.</div><div><br /></div><div>Ghesquière's collection was a masterful reinterpretation of his past decade's work, infused with a nostalgic yet innovative spirit. Each ensemble bore traces of its predecessors, skillfully reimagined to evoke "earlier affinities" and cherished design elements. For Ghesquière, it was a journey guided by his unwavering vision, described as "following one's North Star." His distinctive aesthetic, characterised by a futuristic fusion of eras and cultural motifs, was on full display, captivating the audience with its audacity. The collection's standout moments were a testament to Ghesquière's craftsmanship: delicate tassels adorning sleek parkas, cascades of shimmering sequins, meticulously embroidered brocade coats, and billowing skirts adorned with shards of silver confetti. Amidst this opulence, structured silhouettes lent a modern edge, exemplified by hourglass tailored jackets synonymous with Ghesquière's style. In a heartfelt letter left on each attendee's seat, Ghesquière reflected on the significance of the evening, recalling the exhilaration of his journey with <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_Vuitton">Louis Vuitton</a>. "This joy is still here," he penned, as the audience rose to their feet in appreciation of his unparalleled contribution to the world of fashion. As he took his final bow, the sense of reverence in the air was palpable, marking a momentous milestone in his illustrious career.<br /><br /><b>CHANEL</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/ch.png" width="433" /></div><div><br /></div>In a departure from her usual runway introductions, <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/virginie-viard">Virginie Viard</a> kicked off her latest collection with a cinematic flourish, presenting an <a href="https://www.inezandvinoodh.com/">Inez & Vinoodh</a>-shot short film featuring Hollywood icons <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pen%C3%A9lope_Cruz">Penelope Cruz</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brad_Pitt">Brad Pitt</a> as star-crossed lovers frolicking on a sun-drenched beach. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/riannevanrompaey/?hl=en">Rianne Van Rompaey</a> made a cameo appearance as the couple's waitress, adding to the allure of the narrative. Viard drew inspiration from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Claude_Lelouch">Claude Lelouch</a>'s iconic 1966 French film, "<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izotHO8p8h4">A Man and a Woman</a>" (Un homme et une femme), which unfolds against the picturesque backdrop of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deauville">Deauville</a>, a coastal town deeply intertwined with the history of the French house. The connections between the film and <a href="https://www.chanel.com/">Chanel</a> are manifold: the leading lady of "A Man and a Woman," <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anouk_Aim%C3%A9e">Anouk Aimée</a>, shares a close bond with house founder Gabrielle "<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coco_Chanel">Coco</a>" Chanel, while Deauville holds a special place in Chanel's legacy, serving as the birthplace of her eponymous fashion empire with the opening of a millinery shop in 1912. "It's where it all began for Gabrielle Chanel," Viard remarked, as she transformed the <a href="https://www.grandpalais.fr/fr/lieux/grand-palais-ephemere">Grand Palais Éphémère</a> into a captivating rendition of Deauville's wooden boardwalk for the show. "This story is very close to my heart," she added, underscoring the personal significance of the collection's inspiration.</div><div><br /></div><div>Within the collection itself, Viard skillfully evoked the romantic ambiance of a winter seaside retreat, layering textures, colours, and volumes to evoke a sense of warmth and cosyness. Long, fluid overcoats crafted from the house's iconic tweed paid homage to the languid silhouettes of the 1920s, while chunky knitted skirts, cable-knit sweaters, and sumptuous shearling jackets exuded a timeless allure suited for the autumn-winter season. Coated faded denim lent an air of effortless elegance, complemented by a series of ethereal ruffled gowns adorned with whimsical illustrations of 35mm film and cinema tickets. However, it was the oversized sun hats, elegantly fastened with decorative hat pins, that left the most indelible impression, serving as a poignant reminder of Chanel's millinery origins and establishing a symbolic link between Viard and her iconic predecessor. As two designers separated by a century, Viard's homage to Chanel's enduring legacy resonated deeply, epitomising the timeless allure of the House of Chanel.</div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>ROKH</b><div><div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/rkk.png" width="427" /></div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/rok-hwang">Rok Hwang</a>'s latest collection unfolded within the lavish confines of <a href="http://hotelmonabismarck.com/">Hôtel Mona Bismarck</a> on the banks of the River Seine, marking a journey through time and artistic epochs. Drawing inspiration from the high Renaissance and Romanticism, the South Korean-born designer embarked on his most ambitious exploration yet. Intrigued by the contrasting ideals of these two periods, Hwang merged classical notions of human form and perfection with the raw emotion and individualism emblematic of Romanticism. This juxtaposition manifested in his signature mash-up aesthetic, where deconstructed trench coats transformed into dresses adorned with ruffled petticoats, and denim skirts were elevated with dramatic twists of velvet reminiscent of classical drapery.</div><div><br />Tapestry motifs painted Renaissance prints across sheer tops and dresses, evoking the rich textures and colours of the era's artwork. One standout look featured a model enveloped in jacquard fabric, resembling a living tapestry plucked from the walls of a grand estate. Adding to the collection's collage-like ambiance were flourishes of faux fur, cascading like long, trailing scarf-like adornments. Each garment spoke to Hwang's mastery of layering and texture, creating a visual feast that seamlessly melded past and present. With this collection, <a href="https://www.rokh.net/">Rok Hwang</a> invites us to explore the interplay between history and modernity, tradition and innovation—a testament to his boundless creativity and ability to transcend temporal boundaries.<br /><br /><b>SACAI</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/sac.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/chitose-abe">Chitose Abe</a> delved into the profound concept of emotional protection through clothing in her latest collection, drawing inspiration from the immortal words of renowned fashion photographer <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bill_Cunningham_(American_photographer)">Bill Cunningham</a>: "Fashion is armour to survive the reality of everyday life." This sentiment guided Abe as she explored the transformative power of garments to shield and empower their wearer. True to her signature hybrid approach, Abe elevated the concept of hybridization to its apex, epitomising her belief in the fusion of disparate elements. Central to the <a href="https://www.sacai.jp/">Sacai</a> collection was the notion of "one-piece" dressing, where jackets and coats seamlessly transitioned into dresses. The opening looks featured outerwear crafted into abbreviated A-line silhouettes, resembling mini dresses when paired with boots—a testament to Abe's innovative interpretation of versatile dressing. This theme persisted throughout the collection, as the same silhouette emerged in shirting, tailoring, and knitwear, showcasing Abe's mastery of unified design.<br /><br />Texture and adornment played pivotal roles, adding depth and character to each ensemble. Fuzzy webbed and pom-pom knits exuded tactile warmth, while pearls and brightly coloured shearling accents provided whimsical touches of embellishment. Abe's meticulous attention to detail transformed each garment into a statement piece, offering both physical and emotional protection to the wearer. In Abe's world, fashion becomes more than mere clothing—it becomes a shield, a source of strength, and a reflection of personal resilience. Through her innovative designs, she empowers individuals to navigate the complexities of everyday life with confidence and grace.<br /><br /><b>VALENTINO</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/V.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierpaolo_Piccioli">Pierpaolo Piccioli</a>'s illustrious tenure at <a href="https://www.valentino.com/">Valentino</a> has been characterised by a masterful exploration of colour. Thus, this season's departure into the realm of 'Le Noir', an exquisite collection rendered entirely in black, marks a bold departure. "Black is the uniform of democracy," echoes the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Baudelaire">Charles Baudelaire</a> quote adorning the collection notes, a sentiment embraced by Piccioli as he draws inspiration from luminaries such as <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_Rothko">Mark Rothko</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constantin_Br%C3%A2ncu%C8%99i">Constantin Brâncusi</a>. The runway unfolds as a chiaroscuro canvas, where classic silhouettes seamlessly blend with haute couture intricacies. Witness <a href="https://www.instagram.com/mona_tougaard/?hl=en">Mona Tougaard</a> effortlessly donning a perfectly tailored sleeveless top paired with impeccably cut trousers, complemented by the subtle drama of a gently creased leather opera glove. Each ensemble narrates a story of timeless elegance, while intricate millefeuilles of sheer lace ruffles cascade delicately against the skin, transforming black into a kaleidoscope of hues.<br /><br />Piccioli's creations evoke a sense of reverence, with delicate hooded gowns reminiscent of a somber yet graceful figure in mourning. "Black can challenge and explode stereotypes," Piccioli reflects through the collection notes, encapsulating the essence of his vision. "As Baudelaire intimates, black holds within itself its own democracy." Indeed, day and evening blur into a seamless continuum, as precious silhouettes and exquisite embellishments redefine reality. Each shade of black becomes a testament to its infinite nuance, offering a spectrum of sophistication within a singular hue. With 'Le Noir', Piccioli unveils a monochrome symphony that transcends boundaries, inviting fashion aficionados into a world where elegance and democracy converge in timeless harmony.<br /><br /><b>AKRIS</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/a.png" width="512" /></div><br /><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albert_Kriemler">Albert Kriemler</a>'s latest presentation at <a href="https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj1_MD7mt2EAxUZOAYAHWHqBgwYABAAGgJ3cw&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAiAopuvBhBCEiwAm8jaMW2Z92B9YPB7Qj7pU_DwWZ_N3Unp2SyoSGdx7YbzKcjXwnDieYboLxoCReUQAvD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVeD2zX84ck7esG74fh1I9f_QKbv2pp6NgM983bh75_ASHOeWcCbAfWUq_4X8KAuj2m8sheTwLDROHkd501kek-qgJ5T9MxrFWjX0hgto3Wpxq6oNkKI&sig=AOD64_3Hg0497oujd3MnkU-SRBgq2rNCSw&q&nis=4&adurl&ved=2ahUKEwjw_7X7mt2EAxUOUqQEHR9NCKEQ0Qx6BAgOEAE">Akris</a> unveils a captivating exploration of duality, where the interplay between shadow and light, simplicity and complexity, protection and projection takes centre stage. Inspired by the concept of 'duality', Kriemler orchestrates a symphony of contrasts that resonates throughout the collection. Drawing inspiration from the captivating photograms of Switzerland-based artist <a href="https://www.katalindeer.ch/">Katalin Deér</a>, Kriemler seamlessly integrates these symbolic motifs into his designs. The ethereal prints, reminiscent of hidden beauties breaking into the light, adorn diaphanous dresses saturated with rich, vibrant hues, serving as a visual representation of the collection's thematic essence. "I discovered the photograms of Katalin Deér at <a href="https://www.artbasel.com/?lang=en">Art Basel</a>," reveals Kriemler. "Their analogue nature, capturing hidden beauties emerging into the light, resonated deeply with me."<br /><br />Beyond the artistic influences, Kriemler's collection offers a meticulously curated wardrobe that reflects the complexities of contemporary life. Tough outerwear and sharply tailored pieces stand in juxtaposition to softer layers crafted from organza, silk, and sequins, embodying the inherent contradictions and routines of modern existence. At Akris, innovation meets tradition as Kriemler pioneers the use of digital photo prints on fabrics, a technique he first introduced in the early 2000s. This fusion of analogue artistry and digital innovation serves as a testament to Kriemler's visionary approach to fashion, elevating each garment into a work of art. In this collection, Albert Kriemler invites us to embrace the beauty found within the contrast, to celebrate the harmony that exists between opposing forces. It is a testament to the transformative power of fashion, where light and shadow intertwine to create a captivating narrative of elegance and sophistication.<br /><br /><b>BALENCIAGA</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/b.png" width="512" /></div><br />For <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Demna_(designer)">Demna</a>, the thrill of receiving an <a href="https://www.ebay.com/">eBay</a> parcel at his doorstep serves as a catalyst for creative exploration. The collection itself exuded an air of eclectic sophistication, mirroring the endless scroll of possibilities inherent in the auction site. "One-minute designs," as Demna aptly coined them, took centre stage, with DIY dresses meticulously crafted from a collage of disparate garments, reminiscent of the challenges witnessed on the iconic television show, <a href="https://www.bravotv.com/project-runway">Project Runway</a>. Throughout the showcase, Demna reaffirmed his commitment to his distinctive aesthetic, characterised by disheveled faux fur coats, avant-garde face-shielding sunglasses, and oversized corporate tailoring juxtaposed with nods to subculture. Chains and studs adorned garments, echoing a rebellious spirit that permeated the collection.<br /><br />"This show had to represent me and my style," Demna declared backstage. "This is the aesthetic I've been cultivating for a decade, and I intend to continue pushing boundaries as long as I remain in the realm of fashion." <a href="https://www.balenciaga.com/">Balenciaga</a>'s A/W 2024 presentation served as a testament to Demna's unwavering dedication to his unique vision, seamlessly blending elements of nostalgia, innovation, and rebellion into a spellbinding tapestry of style.<br /><br /><b>ALEXANDER MCQUEEN</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/m.png" width="427" /></div><br />The highly anticipated debut collection from Irish designer<a href="https://www.kering.com/en/houses/couture-and-leather-goods/alexander-mcqueen/sean-mcgirr/"> Seán McGirr</a> at <a href="https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/">Alexander McQueen</a> dazzled attendees as they journeyed to a disused tram shed in Paris' 13th arrondissement on a Saturday evening. The choice of venue, reminiscent of those favored by the late <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_McQueen">Lee McQueen</a>, particularly evoked memories of "<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOuFflTkPQ8&pp=ygUSTWNRdWVlbidzIFMvUyAxOTk1">The Birds</a>," McQueen's S/S 1995 show held in a warehouse in an un-gentrified King's Cross. For McGirr, this iconic collection served as a poignant starting point, igniting his journey at the revered fashion house. Drawing inspiration from McQueen's groundbreaking work of the 1990s and early 2000s, McGirr endeavored to infuse his debut with the fierce energy and raw creativity synonymous with the legendary designer. Referencing iconic collections such as A/W 2001's "<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qynzgm9i4LI&pp=ygUMbWNxdWVlbiB2b3Nz">Voss</a>" and McQueen's final masterpiece, "<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVN4WUKIzjA&pp=ygUXbWNxdWVlbiBwbGF0b3MgYXRsYW50aXM%3D">Plato's Atlantis</a>," McGirr skillfully channeled the spirit of innovation and rebellion.<br /><br />The collection showcased an all inclusive array of garments, from T-shirts resembling shattered glass—a personal nod to McGirr's broken iPhone screen—to sculptural dresses crafted from materials akin to car chassis, binding models in a bold statement of strength and vulnerability. Sharp, pitched-shoulder tailoring accentuated by twisting leather ties exuded a sense of daring sophistication, while oversized knit sweaters paid homage to McGirr's Irish heritage with a nod to traditional <a href="https://www.aran.com/">Aran sweaters</a>. Embracing a DIY ethos, McGirr's designs exuded an eclectic energy, evoking the spirit of experimentation reminiscent of his days as a student. The collection's occasional chaos seemed intentional, reflecting a desire to challenge conventions and embrace the ethos of anti-politeness championed by McQueen. Backstage, McGirr articulated his fascination with McQueen's subversive approach to fashion, emphasising the importance of embracing outsiders and challenging mainstream ideals. As the show concluded with the haunting strains of Enya's "<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTrk4X9ACtw&pp=ygURZW55YSBvcmlub2NvIGZsb3c%3D">Orinoco Flow</a>," speculation arose about McGirr's future direction. Could his native Ireland become a wellspring of inspiration, akin to McQueen's exploration of British history and folklore? The fashion world awaits eagerly as McGirr continues to carve his path at Alexander McQueen, fueled by boundless energy and unwavering resolve.<br /><br /><b>HERMES</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/h.png" width="480" /></div><br />In a captivating display of artistry and innovation, <a href="https://www.hermes.com/">Hermès</a> transformed its runway into a spectacle of rain and movement for its A/W 2024 showcase. As guests gathered in Paris' early March drizzle, they were greeted by a stunning theatrical trick: gallons of water cascading from the ceiling, creating a sparkling downpour that enveloped the specially built space. Yet, amidst the deluge, models strode confidently on either side of the runway, ensuring the integrity of the meticulously crafted garments remained intact. Creative director <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nad%C3%A8ge_Vanhee-Cybulski">Nadège Vanhee</a> aptly christened this season's collection 'The Rider,' capturing a palpable sense of resilience and adventure. Inspired by the image of a woman in motion, Vanhee imbued the designs with a tougher outlook, infusing each piece with a sense of dynamism and purpose.<br /><br />Studs adorned poncho-like overcoats and sculpted knit dresses, adding a touch of edge and attitude to the collection. The raised collar of a leather overcoat evoked the spirit of a motorcycle jacket, albeit reimagined in Hermès' signature minimalist style. Throughout the showcase, nods to equestrian and country pursuits abounded, from zip-up leather riding boots to quilted jackets and enveloping roll-neck sweaters. "Astride a horse or a motorcycle... boldly she rides on," declared Hermès, encapsulating the essence of the collection. Each garment spoke to a sense of freedom and movement, inviting the wearer to embrace the thrill of the journey ahead. In 'The Rider,' Hermès celebrates the indomitable spirit of the modern woman, weaving together elements of strength, style, and adventure into a seamless tapestry of luxury and sophistication. As the rain falls both outside and inside the venue, the spirit of resilience shines through, reminding us that even in the face of adversity, the rider rides boldly on.<br /><br /><b>ANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOOD</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/K.png" width="427" /></div><br />In an eclectic fusion of <a href="https://www.thelocal.at/20160620/six-unique-traditions-that-austrians-love-to-love">Austrian folk traditions</a> and avant-garde fashion, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andreas_Kronthaler_(fashion_designer)">Andreas Kronthaler</a>'s latest collection unfolded against the backdrop of a surreal performance by <a href="https://www.numeridanse.tv/en/dance-videotheque/sons-sissy">Simon Mayer's Sons of Sissy</a>. Yodelling, axe-wielding, and bottom-slapping dances set the offbeat tone, serving as both the centrepiece and soundtrack to Kronthaler's eclectic showcase. Backstage, Kronthaler revealed the genesis of his collection, citing a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giovanni_Battista_Moroni#:~:text=Giovanni%20Battista%20Moroni%20(%20c.,portrait%20painters%20of%20the%20Cinquecento.">Giovanni Batista Moroni</a> exhibition in Milan as the initial spark of inspiration. Fascinated by the elegance and austerity of Moroni's portraits, particularly the doublet-clad figure in the late 16th-century painting "The Tailor," Kronthaler embarked on a journey through history while seeking to push boundaries forward.<br /><br />The result is a collection that marries historical references with Kronthaler's distinctive imaginative flair. Codpieces, ruffles, and bows abound, transformed into contemporary statements through Kronthaler's visionary lens. Meanwhile, hallmarks of <a href="https://www.viviennewestwood.com/">Vivienne Westwood</a>'s iconic aesthetic continue to permeate the designs, from towering platform boots to billowing silhouettes and swathes of tartan. Yet, amidst the historical nods and eccentric flourishes, Kronthaler remains steadfast in his commitment to innovation. Tartan is sliced away into mini kilts, while staff-wielding models, including the likes of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sam_Smith">Sam Smith</a>, command the runway with undeniable panache. "We always talk about history and historical figures, and I went back to that this season, even as I wanted to move ahead," Kronthaler explained post-show, encapsulating the essence of his creative vision. In this theatrical odyssey, Kronthaler invites us to explore the intersection of past and present, tradition and innovation, weaving together a tapestry of whimsy and sophistication that defies convention and delights the senses.<br /><br /><b>NOIR KEI NINOMIYA</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/NN.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/kei-ninomiya">Kei Ninomiya</a>'s A/W 2024 collection, aptly titled '<a href="https://www.instagram.com/noirkeininomiya/">Iridescent</a>,' captivated audiences with its whimsical spirit and liberated use of colour. Against a backdrop of a cranking soundtrack and fairground-style announcer, models bounced down the runway in Ninomiya's typically intriguing creations, each one a testament to his mastery of sculptural silhouettes and avant-garde design. This season, Ninomiya embraced a newfound sense of levity and play, infusing his garments with a kaleidoscope of colours and textures. Across A-line constructions, rainbows of crystalline feathers, pinwheel flowers, and clear geometric motifs danced in harmony, evoking a sense of nostalgic whimsy reminiscent of 1970s crochet. However, Ninomiya's interpretation was decidedly modern, with solid motifs resembling stained-glass windows, adding a touch of ethereal elegance to the collection.<br /><br />As always, Ninomiya's designs left spectators guessing, as the enigmatic designer refused to reveal the materials or techniques behind his creations, maintaining his status as a fashion alchemist. Instead, he offered a succinct statement on the season, echoing the ethos of the <a href="https://www.comme-des-garcons.com/">Comme des Garçons</a> group to which he belongs. "I chose to focus on creating something new using different colours and textures, and play with the reflection of light," he explained. In 'Iridescent,' Ninomiya invites us into a whimsical wonderland where innovation meets imagination. Each garment is a testament to his boundless creativity and avant-garde vision, leaving an indelible mark on the world of fashion.<br /><br /><b>JUNYA WATANBE</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/w.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.comme-des-garcons.com/junyawatanabeman.html">Junya Watanabe</a>'s latest collection, unveiled on a drizzly Saturday morning at <a href="https://www.elyseemontmartre.com/">Elysée Montmartre</a>, is a masterful exploration of the beauty found in the juxtaposition of clothing and sculpture. Against a backdrop of geometric triangular cutouts and protrusions, Watanabe presents a collection that seamlessly merges quotidian garments with sculptural elements, creating a visual feast for the senses. The show opens with overcoats punctuated by geometric interruptions, setting the stage for a journey through shape and texture. Classic high-neck sweaters, wool trousers, and skirts are transformed by sculptural adornments, adding depth and dimension to familiar silhouettes. Leather takes centre stage, with experiments ranging from thick, protective folds that loop around the body to tasseled strands and mock-croc motifs.<br /><br />The exploration of shape continues with twisting puffer jackets that defy convention, while a series of floral dresses layered beneath deconstructed coats exemplifies the contrast at the heart of the collection. Each ensemble is a study in balance, where traditional elements collide with avant-garde sculptural forms, creating a harmonious interplay of opposites. The collection reaches its crescendo with the introduction of black chain-adorned mules, a collaboration with sneaker brand <a href="https://www.hoka.com/en/es/">Hoka</a>. A testament to Watanabe's commitment to innovation and collaboration, these mules are sure to become a coveted item among fashion enthusiasts when they hit stores later this year. In <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Junya_Watanabe">Junya Watanabe</a>'s world, fashion becomes art, and sculpture becomes wearable. With each garment, he invites us to reconsider the boundaries between clothing and art, embracing the beauty found in the contrast between the two.<br /><br /><b>ISSEY MIYAKE</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/im.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.isseymiyake.com/">Issey Miyake</a>'s latest collection, aptly titled 'What Has Always Been,' speaks to the innate instinct of clothing the human body. Designer <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satoshi_Kondo">Satoshi Kondo</a> eloquently articulated the season's inspiration in a letter left on attendees' seats, emphasising the spontaneous yet deliberate act of dressing and the intimate connection between hand and fabric. The collection unfolds as a tribute to ancient dress codes, where wrapped, draped, and intricately layered silhouettes evoke a sense of protection and envelopment against the elements. Complex pleated garments, shrouding the wearer in ceremonial elegance, recall traditions of old while imbuing the collection with a timeless allure.<br /><br />Throughout, moments of lightness and play, synonymous with <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Issey_Miyake">Issey Miyake</a>'s design philosophy, emerge through expert use of colour and painterly prints. Each garment is a canvas, exploring the depths of what has always been, capturing the essence of tradition while embracing the spirit of innovation. "We explore, feel, and grasp what has always been, nothing more and nothing less," concludes Kondo, encapsulating the collection's ethos. In this exploration of instinct and tradition, Issey Miyake invites us to reconnect with the elemental essence of clothing, celebrating the timeless art of dressing the human form.<br /><br /><b>LOEWE</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/lo.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jonathan_Anderson_(fashion_designer)">Jonathan Anderson</a>'s latest womenswear collection for <a href="https://www.loewe.com/">Loewe</a> transcended the boundaries of fashion, serving as a platform to showcase the works of reclusive American painter <a href="https://www.artnet.com/artists/albert-york/">Albert York</a>. In a bold move, Anderson transformed the <a href="https://www.chateau-de-vincennes.fr/en">Chateau de Vincennes</a> showspace into an exhibition hall, where 18 of York's pastoral landscapes and studies of flowers and animals were on display, marking the largest exhibit of York's work outside of the United States. Anderson's choice to integrate York's paintings into the collection was deliberate, rooted in the concept of context and luxury. He contemplated the juxtaposition of York's bucolic paintings, aimed at capturing the essence of paradise, against the opulent backdrop of Upper East Side apartments. This theme of juxtaposition extended into the collection itself, with hazy floral prints drawn from historic ceramics juxtaposed against extraordinary 'caviar' beaded garments evoking eagles, dogs, and asparagus.<br /><br />"I like the idea of craft becoming something else," <a href="https://www.jwanderson.com/">Anderson</a> explained, highlighting his fascination with historical craft and its application beyond traditional contexts. This theme of subversion continued throughout the collection, with upper-class dress codes reinterpreted in Anderson's idiosyncratic style. Etonian dress coats were elongated to trail on the floor, cable-knit sweaters and ties were paired with high-waist trousers adorned with oversized, near-futuristic studs, creating a vision of aristocratic dressing with a twist. "The aristocrat is almost a foreign thing now," Anderson mused, reflecting on the caricatured nature of upper-class society. Through his collection, Anderson challenges traditional notions of class and wealth, turning tropes on their head and inviting viewers to reconsider the familiar in a new light. In this fusion of fashion and fine art, Anderson blurs the boundaries between the two worlds, creating an immersive experience that transcends conventional expectations.<br /><br /><b>GIVENCHY</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/g.png" width="427" /></div><div><br /><a href="https://www.givenchy.com/es/en/homepage">Givenchy</a> made a triumphant return to its historic couture salon on Avenue George V, unveiling its first womenswear collection since the departure of American designer <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matthew_Williams_(designer)">Matthew M Williams</a> in December 2023. In the wake of Williams' exit and amidst swirling rumours about his successor, the house's design team stepped up to create an interim collection that paid homage to the iconic designs of house founder <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hubert_de_Givenchy">Hubert de Givenchy</a>. Renowned for his association with legendary women, most notably <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audrey_Hepburn">Audrey Hepburn</a>, Hubert de Givenchy's legacy served as the cornerstone of inspiration for the A/W 2024 collection. The team sought to evoke a sense of sensuality and suspense, envisioning a dressed-up wardrobe for contemporary cinematic muses. From draped and sculpted gowns to modern riffs on the classic tuxedo, each piece exuded an air of timeless elegance and allure.<br /><br />Embellishments took centre stage throughout the collection, with extraordinary beading adorning the opening look, a testament to Givenchy's synonymous with Parisian craftsmanship. The show culminated with a modern bride, portrayed by American model <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amelia_Gray_Hamlin">Amelia Gray</a>, who graced the runway in a delicately feathered gown complete with an in-built veil, evoking a sense of ethereal beauty and romance. In a nod to Givenchy's storied history and commitment to luxury, the collection showcased the house's enduring legacy of sophistication and refinement. As the fashion world eagerly awaits the announcement of the new creative director, Givenchy's interim collection serves as a testament to the enduring allure of timeless elegance and cinematic glamour.<br /><br /><b>SCHIAPARELLI</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/S.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Roseberry">Daniel Roseberry</a> continues to redefine <a href="https://www.schiaparelli.com/">Schiaparelli</a>'s ready-to-wear offering in its third season, with a clear vision of creating fully formed, hyper-exclusive collections that elevate everyday staples to Schiaparelli settings. Described by the American designer as a complete wardrobe infused with moments of surreal adornment inspired by house founder <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elsa_Schiaparelli">Elsa Schiaparelli</a>, each garment exudes an air of sophisticated eccentricity. Roseberry's ready-to-wear collection seamlessly blends archetypal garments such as blazers, slacks, double-breasted overcoats, denim shirts, and jeans with whimsical embellishments. Buttons and buckles take on surreal shapes, resembling eyes or shells, while neckties appear like plaits of hair, adding a touch of avant-garde flair to classic silhouettes.<br /><br />"It's made for every day, not just the rare, precious moments of life when only couture will do," Roseberry explains, capturing the essence of the collection's ethos. With a distinctly 1980s mood, each piece is designed to be versatile and wearable, suitable for every occasion and setting. As Schiaparelli's ready-to-wear offerings continue to captivate, Roseberry invites wearers to embrace the unexpected and revel in the curiosity and admiration elicited by each uniquely adorned piece. From the streets to the soirées, Schiaparelli's ready-to-wear revolution promises to turn heads and spark conversations, ensuring that every wearer is asked, "Excuse me... where did you get that piece?"<br /><br /><b>RABANNE</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/ra.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/julien-dossena">Julien Dossena</a>'s latest collection for <a href="https://www.pacorabanne.com/ww/en/fragrance/">Rabanne</a> is a testament to the beauty found in the unexpected and the unmatched. Embracing a myriad of influences, from grunge and art school aesthetics to vintage finds and 1970s graphic design, the French designer infuses the collection with a freewheeling energy that delights in the clash of elements. Layers abound in Dossena's vision, with fuzzy cheetah print sweaters, houndstooth overcoats, plaid blazers, polka-dotted skirts, checkered knits, and chainmail cami tops coming together in a glorious pile-up of textures and patterns. Each look is a kaleidoscope of possibilities, born from an indescribable longing for everyday originality.<br /><br />Dossena describes the collection as a "matrix of possibilities," where the pleasure of discovery is akin to finding a cherished piece in a vintage store or stumbling upon hidden treasures during an <a href="https://www.ebay.com/">eBay</a> trawl. This sentiment is epitomised by the pairs of tights adorned with delicate metal petals, studs, and chainmail disks, inviting the wearer to embark on a journey of exploration and self-expression. In Julien Dossena's world, fashion becomes a canvas for creativity, where clashing patterns and unmatched styles converge to create a symphony of eclectic elegance. With each piece, he invites us to embrace the beauty of individuality and celebrate the joy of discovery in the everyday.<br /><br /><b>CHLOÉ</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/chlo.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://fashionunited.in/news/people/who-is-chloe-s-new-creative-director-chemena-kamali/2023101041949">Chemena Kamali</a>'s debut collection for <a href="https://www.chloe.com/">Chloé</a> marks a triumphant return to the essence of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chlo%C3%A9">Chloé</a> woman, capturing the spirit that first captivated her two decades ago. Presented in a former telephone exchange on <a href="https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rue_du_Faubourg-Poissonni%C3%A8re">Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière</a>, Kamali's vision for the Parisian house pays homage to the brand's iconic aesthetic while infusing it with a modern sensibility. "I want to bring back the feeling I had when I first stepped through the doors here 20 years ago and fell in love with the Chloé woman's spirit," explains the German designer, who began her design career at Chloé under <a href="https://www.phoebephilo.com/">Phoebe Philo</a>. Drawing inspiration from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karl_Lagerfeld">Karl Lagerfeld</a>'s influential tenure at Chloé in the 1960s, Kamali channels the breezy, bohemian aesthetic that has become synonymous with the brand.<br /><br />Fluidity reigns supreme in Kamali's collection, with brilliant riffs on the sheer ruffled dress and recurring caped motifs nodding to Chloé's defining silhouette. Accessories play a key role in capturing the collection's eclectic mood, from handbags adorned with banana hardware to golden snake jewelry and looping Chloé signature belts. "This collection is about intuition, freedom, and an instinctive female energy," Kamali emphasises. "It's about a Chloé with a sense of nostalgia that mirrors the times we are living in and anticipates how women want to feel today. It's about what feels right." With her debut collection, Chemena Kamali breathes new life into Chloé, reimagining the brand's heritage for a modern audience while staying true to its essence of effortless elegance and feminine allure. The Chloé girl is back, and she's as captivating as ever.<br /><br /><b>RICK OWENS</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/ro.png" width="427" /></div><br />Once again, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rick_Owens">Rick Owens</a> welcomed guests into his revered 'concrete palace'—the former <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headquarters_of_the_French_Communist_Party#:~:text=The%20headquarters%20of%20the%20French,the%2019th%20arrondissement%20of%20Paris.">French Socialist Party headquarters</a> nestled in Paris' <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Place_du_Palais-Bourbon">Place du Palais Bourbon</a>, which serves as both home and creative sanctuary for the designer and his wife <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mich%C3%A8le_Lamy">Michèle Lamy</a>. Amidst the sparse, industrial space adorned with Owens' signature monolithic furnishings and artworks, attendees gathered for a glimpse into the designer's latest creation. Describing his home as "insulated, isolated, removed, and remote," Owens explained that the choice of setting was a deliberate move towards human closeness—an intimate gesture amidst the chaos of the times. This mood of intimacy permeated the collection itself, evoking a sense of protection against the elements.<br /><br />Knitted alpaca 'spacesuits' enveloped the body in luxurious softness, while twisting, padded forms sculpted around the torso in <a href="https://www.rickowens.eu/en/US">Owens</a>' distinctive style. Infusions of strange glamour, inspired by Owens' childhood enchantment with opera, manifested in the collection's extraordinary closing looks: a series of cage-like gowns crafted from tangles of sequins. These avant-garde creations, while daring and unconventional, hinted at a glimmer of hope—a beacon of light amidst the darkness. Through his artistry, Rick Owens invites us to embrace intimacy, find solace in the face of adversity, and dare to dream of a brighter future.<br /><br /><b>ACNE STUDIOS</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/acne.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.acnestudios.com/us/en/home">Acne Studios</a> unveiled its latest womenswear collection against the backdrop of enormous rubber armchairs and stools, crafted from recycled car tires by Estonian artist <a href="http://www.jaanisoo.com/">Villu Jaanisoo</a>. These unconventional furnishings set the stage for a collection that explores the dichotomy between toughness and elegance, with a focus on leather, denim, and the human form. Rooted in the brand's DNA, leather and denim took centre stage in sculpted, industrial silhouettes that exuded a sense of mechanical precision. Moulded leather overcoats and dresses evoked the imagery of armoured chest plates, while denim pieces were treated to create a distressed, oily effect or smeared with rust—a nod to Acne Studios' edgy aesthetic. Creative director <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jonny_Johansson">Jonny Johansson</a> explained, "I've always been drawn to leather and denim. It's the spirit of Acne Studios." He emphasised the symbiotic relationship between these two fabrics, which has been a cornerstone of the brand since its inception.<br /><br />Despite the tough exterior, the collection also embraced a surprising softness. Elongated jersey dresses and Henley-style T-shirts offered the comfort of loungewear, while chunky-knit hooded dresses exuded cosiness fit for a Swedish winter. Johansson's signature juxtapositions between toughness and sweetness were evident throughout, creating a dynamic and multifaceted collection. Elegance emerged in the form of faux fur coats, ladylike handbags, and "lampshade" gowns—a playful riff on traditional haute couture silhouettes. Johansson aimed to challenge the archetypal codes of women's fashion by infusing them with Acne Studios' distinctive aesthetic. "This collection is about the juxtaposition of an elevated femininity and a biker attitude," Johansson explained. By confronting traditional fashion norms with the brand's unique identity, Acne Studios continues to push the boundaries of contemporary womenswear.<br /><br /><b>COURRÉGES</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/corr.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/nicolas-di-felice#:~:text=Nicolas%20Di%20Felice%20is%20the,into%20a%20buzzy%20celebrity%20favourite.">Nicolas di Felice</a>'s latest <a href="https://www.courreges.com/">Courrèges</a> collection was unveiled against a backdrop of a gently swelling installation, accompanied by the sound of a person's breath—an intriguing setting that perfectly complemented the designer's vision. Described as a musing on "symmetry and sensuality," the collection embraced the simplicity of primary shapes while continuing Di Felice's coolly reduced aesthetic for the French house. Drawing inspiration from the geometry of a square-shaped scarf, Di Felice explored the idea of contorting simple forms into a myriad of possibilities. Clean-lined square-shaped tops and dresses hung effortlessly on the body, seemingly defying gravity with their strapless and backless designs—held in place by sheer fabrics that added a touch of illusion.<br /><br />As the show progressed, silhouettes evolved into sinuous and twisted forms, cleverly wrapping around the body with ties and twists of fabric. The final looks, some revealing underwear-style details beneath, evoked a sense of a woman disrobing—an intimate and behind-closed-doors mood captured through delicate feather appliqué, a rare flourish of adornment from the designer. Nicolas di Felice's exploration of symmetry and sensuality at Courrèges showcased his mastery of minimalism and understated elegance. By infusing clean lines with subtle twists and illusions, he presented a collection that celebrated the beauty of simplicity while hinting at the allure of the unseen.<br /><br /><b>SAINT LAURENT</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/SAL.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/anthony-vaccarello-1">Anthony Vaccarello</a> transformed two vast circular rooms into intimate boudoirs, draped in emerald green damask reminiscent of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yves_Saint_Laurent_(designer)">Saint Laurent</a>'s historic haute couture salons. This seductive setting served as the backdrop for a sensually charged show that explored the concept of transparency—a theme that Vaccarello masterfully rendered through his <a href="https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwifnp-jz92EAxXIkoMHHdk2D9oYABAAGgJlZg&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAiAopuvBhBCEiwAm8jaMSDkaroCX7JjqZXuEqvIbXSQggO3P6VWxtE2CIq57YYtz5y_dprocxoCnBcQAvD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVeD2cp9d28rAje-VxhdxXWreRYD4nPscevMK0Zkk8dkMbO3bEsGH1NEzLtHDsBoqWIDD0_Rz60z9M6SR_U_f6SVgkvMV0OS2CX2PoukJlpUMv-uHYMo&sig=AOD64_1LJU2zCGoNtmUYQKYqJerKtZX4kw&q&nis=4&adurl&ved=2ahUKEwi2jJijz92EAxV89LsIHTLwC3sQ0Qx6BAgNEAE">latest collection</a>. In an ode to the intimacy of the boudoir, Vaccarello blurred the lines between garment and skin, creating sinuous, gauzy gowns that draped around the body like delicate undergarments and hosiery. Inspired by <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marilyn_Monroe">Marilyn Monroe</a>'s iconic 'naked' dress, the collection exuded a nostalgic glamour, with touches of faux fur and a palette reminiscent of powdery makeup hues.<br /><br />For those seeking a more modest allure, impeccably crafted caban-style overcoats and fluid, wide-shouldered tailoring provided elegant cover-ups. Vaccarello's clever tendency to riff on singular silhouettes or ideas was evident throughout, offering a glimpse into the designer's future direction. "Anthony Vaccarello reminds us of what once was at the centre of fashion by rendering it invisible: clothes," stated the house in collection notes. Through his expert craftsmanship and innovative design, Vaccarello created a collection where fabric evaporated like mist, leaving only the allure of the human form—a true tribute to the art of seduction.<br /><br /><b>DIOR</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/dd.png" width="512" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/maria-grazia-chiuri">Maria Grazia Chiuri</a> delved into the liberating spirit of the 1960s for her latest <a href="https://www.dior.com/">Dior</a> collection, drawing inspiration from the era's revolutionary shift towards ready-to-wear fashion. This pivotal moment in fashion history, marked by the emergence of ready-to-wear lines from Parisian couture houses, symbolised a democratisation of style, allowing women to access luxury clothing beyond the confines of haute couture salons. At the heart of Chiuri's A/W 2024 collection was a homage to <a href="https://www.dior.com/es_es/beauty/perfumes-femeninos/miss-dior">Miss Dior</a>, the womenswear line launched in 1967 under the direction of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marc_Bohan">Marc Bohan</a> and his assistant <a href="https://www.ngv.vic.gov.au/explore/collection/artist/33862/">Philippe Guibourgé</a>. Embracing the liberated dress codes of the era, the collection featured effortless yet elegant silhouettes, including reinterpretations of the classic trench coat and abbreviated skirts. Clean-lined tailoring and tabard-style tops evoked the essence of everyday glamour synonymous with the <a href="https://vintagefashionguild.org/resources/item/label/miss-dior/">Miss Dior line.</a><br /><br />Chiuri's exploration of the Miss Dior legacy culminated in the collection's closing looks, adorned with shimmering surface embellishments, metallic tassels, and crystal webbing—a nod to the craftsmanship of the Dior atelier. The mood of liberation permeated the collection, echoing <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christian_Dior">Christian Dior</a>'s vision of dressing all women for any occasion. During the show, models navigated sculptures by Indian artist <a href="http://www.shakuntalakulkarni.com/">Shakuntala Kulkarni</a>, reflecting Chiuri's ongoing collaboration with female artists. These armature-like figures, created from cane, symbolised a juxtaposition of clothing, protection, and transformation—a theme mirroring Chiuri's interrogation of femininity throughout her tenure at Dior. In Chiuri's vision, the Miss Dior collection became a symbol of pluralistic, autonomous femininity—a moment of creative freedom that resonated with the spirit of the 1960s and continues to inspire contemporary interpretations of elegance and empowerment.</div></div></div></div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-27833155867417000522024-03-04T14:14:00.001+00:002024-03-04T14:14:43.579+00:00Maison Miyake<p> In 1965, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Issey_Miyake">Issey Miyake</a>, armed with a graphic design degree from <a href="https://www.tamabi.ac.jp/">Tama Art University</a> in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japan">Japan</a>, embarked on a transformative journey to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paris">Paris</a>. There, alongside fellow Japanese designer <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kenz%C5%8D_Takada">Kenzo Takada</a>, he delved into the world of couture at <a href="https://www.ifmparis.fr/fr/opinion/decouvrez-l-ecole-de-la-chambre-syndicale-et-ses-programmes">l’École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne</a>. This Parisian sojourn laid the foundation for Miyake's illustrious career. Establishing his eponymous fashion label, <a href="https://mds.isseymiyake.com/mds/en/collection/">Miyake Design Studio</a>, in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tokyo">Tokyo</a> in 1970, he returned to Paris in 1973 to debut his collections, marking the beginning of a lifelong connection to the city. This association endured until his retirement from the brand in 1997.</p><div style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" class="wp-image-26255 size-full" height="427" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/2.png" width="640" /> </div><p>Continuing this legacy, a newly unveiled Issey Miyake Paris store now graces the prestigious <a href="https://www.parisperfect.com/plan-your-trip/paris-shopping-guide/triangle-dor.php#:~:text=The%20triangle%20d'or%20in,Couture%20shops%20in%20the%20world.">Triangle D’Or shopping district</a>, representing one of Miyake's final endeavors. Despite his retirement, Miyake remained involved in the company's affairs until his passing in August 2022. Renowned Japanese designer and artist <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tokujin_Yoshioka">Tokujin Yoshioka</a>, who collaborated with Miyake on various projects, reminisces about being enlisted by Miyake in 2021 to undertake the store's design. "Paris is a centre of fashion and culture," Yoshioka reflects. His vision materialised at <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:26-28_rue_Fran%C3%A7ois-Ier,_Paris_8e.jpg">28 rue François 1er</a>, supplanting the former flagship on <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rue_Royale,_Paris">Rue Royale</a> in the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/8th_arrondissement_of_Paris">8th arrondissement</a>. Dubbed 'ISSEY MIYAKE / PARIS,' the store epitomises a convergence of cultural dynamism and futurism, as described by Yoshioka.</p><blockquote><p>´<em>The architectural design aims for minimalism, accentuating the impression of weightlessness, akin to garments seemingly suspended in air. The store will showcase a comprehensive array of Issey Miyake's collections, including <a href="https://www.isseymiyake.com/pages/pleatsplease">Pleats Please</a>, <a href="https://www.isseymiyake.com/pages/hommeplisse">Homme Plissé</a>, <a href="https://us-store.isseymiyake.com/collections/baobao">Bao Bao</a>, alongside perfumes, watches, and eyewear</em>.´ - Charles Daniel McDonald</p></blockquote><p>Spanning 360 square meters across two floors, the store inhabits the former headquarters of <a href="https://www.europe1.fr/direct-audio">Europe 1 radio station</a>, marking a pioneering venture for retail in the space. Externally, the store boasts a quintessentially Parisian ambiance with a 19th-century stone facade adorned with expansive windows and traditional adornments. Internally, Yoshioka's signature modern aesthetic takes precedence, featuring minimalist white-walled chambers punctuated by angular metal fixtures and glass displays. "I aimed to merge contemporary elements with 19th-century French architecture to evoke a temporal juxtaposition," explains Yoshioka.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" class="size-full wp-image-26256 aligncenter" height="427" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/4.png" width="640" /></p><p>Central to the store's ambiance are the vibrant orange aluminum accent walls, strategically positioned throughout the space and visible from the street. Symbolising the rising sun, these walls encapsulate Miyake's ethos of joy and vitality in design. "The aluminum walls, individually treated with an anodising technique, are assembled on-site to form a luminous orange expanse, evoking the radiance of the sun," explains Yoshioka. "They embody Issey Miyake's dedication to craftsmanship and his vision for a vibrant future."</p><p><br /></p>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-70727425717135557962024-03-02T12:39:00.001+00:002024-03-02T12:39:43.028+00:00Fashion Icon Iris Apfel Dies Aged 102Iris Apfel, a textile expert, interior designer and fashion celebrity known for her eccentric style, has died. She was 102. Her death was confirmed by her commercial agent, Lori Sale, who called Apfel “extraordinary.” No cause of death was given. It was also announced on her verified Instagram page on Friday, which a day earlier had celebrated that Leap Day represented her 102nd-and-a-half birthday.<div><br />Born Aug. 29, 1921, Apfel was famous for her irreverent, eye-catching outfits, mixing haute couture and oversized costume jewelry. A classic Apfel look would, for instance, pair a feather boa with strands of chunky beads, bangles and a jacket decorated with Native American beadwork.<br /><br />With her big, round, black-rimmed glasses, bright red lipstick and short white hair, she stood out at every fashion show she attended. Her style was the subject of museum exhibits and a documentary film, "Iris," directed by Albert Maysles.<br /><br />“I'm not pretty, and I'll never be pretty, but it doesn't matter,” she once said. “I have something much better. I have style." Apfel enjoyed late-in-life fame on social media, amassing nearly 3 million followers on Instagram, where her profile declares: “More is more & Less is a Bore.” On TikTok, she drew 215,000 followers as she waxed wise on things fashion and style and promoted recent collaborations.<br /><br />“Being stylish and being fashionable are two entirely different things," she said in one TikTok video. “You can easily buy your way into being fashionable. Style, I think is in your DNA. It implies originality and courage.” She never retired, telling “Today”: "I think retiring at any age is a fate worse than death. Just because a number comes up doesn’t mean you have to stop.”<br /><br />“Working alongside her was the honor of a lifetime. I will miss her daily calls, always greeted with the familiar question: “What have you got for me today?,” Sale said in a statement. “Testament to her insatiable desire to work. She was a visionary in every sense of the word. She saw the world through a unique lens – one adorned with giant, distinctive spectacles that sat atop her nose.”</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="480" src="https://api.time.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/AP24062061580585.jpg?quality=85&w=2400" width="640" /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Apfel was an expert on textiles and antique fabrics. She and her husband Carl owned a textile manufacturing company, Old World Weavers, and specialized in restoration work, including projects at the White House under six different U.S. presidents. Apfel’s celebrity clients included Estee Lauder and Greta Garbo.<br /><br />Apfel’s own fame blew up in 2005 when the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in New York City hosted a show about her called “Rara Avis,” Latin for “rare bird.” The museum described her style as “both witty and exuberantly idiosyncratic.<br /><br />Her originality is typically revealed in her mixing of high and low fashions — Dior haute couture with flea market finds, 19th-century ecclesiastical vestments with Dolce & Gabbana lizard trousers.” The museum said her “layered combinations” defied “aesthetic conventions” and “even at their most extreme and baroque” represented a “boldly graphic modernity.”<br /><br />The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, Massachusetts, was one of several museums around the country that hosted a traveling version of the show. Apfel later decided to donate hundreds of pieces to the Peabody — including couture gowns — to help them build what she termed “a fabulous fashion collection.” The Museum of Fashion & Lifestyle near Apfel’s winter home in Palm Beach, Florida, also plans a gallery dedicated to displaying items from Apfel’s collection. Apfel was born in New York City to Samuel and Sadye Barrel. Her mother owned a boutique.<br /><br />Apfel’s fame in her later years included appearances in ads for brands like M.A.C. cosmetics and Kate Spade. She also designed a line of accessories and jewelry for Home Shopping Network, collaborated with H&M on a sold-out-in-minutes collection of brightly-colored apparel, jewelry and shoes, put out a makeup line with Ciaté London, an eyeglass collection with Zenni and partnered with Ruggable on floor coverings.<br /><br />In a 2017 interview with AP at age 95, she said her favorite contemporary designers included Ralph Rucci, Isabel Toledo and Naeem Khan, but added: "I have so much, I don't go looking." Asked for her fashion advice, she said: "Everybody should find her own way. I'm a great one for individuality. I don't like trends. If you get to learn who you are and what you look like and what you can handle, you'll know what to do."<br /><br />She called herself the “accidental icon,” which became the title of a book she published in 2018 filled with her mementos and style musings. Odes to Apfel are abundant, from a Barbie in her likeness to T-shirts, glasses, artwork and dolls. Apfel’s husband died in 2015. They had no children.</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-51127619467842394792024-02-29T07:13:00.001+00:002024-02-29T07:13:09.524+00:00Is The Row’s No Social Media Policy The Ultimate Act Of Quiet Luxury?The Row showed their autumn/winter 2024 collection during Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday, but you couldn’t be faulted for not knowing about it. You probably haven’t seen any shaky front (or back) row videos on Instagram like you have from every other show, because the brand – the longstanding mascot of the quiet luxury movement – requested that guests refrain from taking photos or filming at the show. Therein lies the question: if you went to a The Row show and didn’t take a video… were you even there?<br /><br />Vanessa Friedman, fashion director and chief fashion critic of the New York Times, posted the label’s ask of attendees on Twitter (now X): “The Row looks forward to having you at the Winter 2024 Collection Presentation on Wednesday, February 28th at 12pm. We kindly ask that you refrain from capturing or sharing any content during your experience.” The disappointment was palpable, from fans and guests alike. “Oh. Ok,” Friedman added.<a href="https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/paris-fashion-week-front-row-aw24"><br /></a><br />Nobody wants to be the person glued to their phone for an entire show, but capturing content straight from the runway has practical benefits. It can help buyers and editors identify which pieces they want to order for stores or shoots (the brand circumvented this gripe by giving guests notepads and pens to write their show notes), and videos capture how garments move in ways that photos cannot. But let’s be honest, another reason people take photos and videos is for the clout. Securing a seat at any show, especially for a particularly buzzy brand like The Row, is an exciting moment in any fashion fanatic’s life. When you get one, you want people to know about it.<div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://media.vogue.co.uk/photos/65df97007c335048c60bce67/2:3/w_2560%2Cc_limit/00-tout-olsen-twins.jpg" width="427" /></div><div><br /></div>As the old adage goes, money screams and wealth whispers, and there is absolutely no screaming at The Row, a brand that sells white T-shirts for £330. While only a slim margin of people are able to buy into it, the brand has managed to place a limit not only on who can afford the clothing, but who can see it. (That is, until the runway photos come out, though they are expected to be extremely delayed.)<br /><br />Sure, anyone with the money can buy a Margaux bag. But scoring an invite to the show opens up a whole new level of exclusivity. In making that experience even more restrictive, they’ve managed to create the ultimate stealth wealth experience. The message is clear: if you’re going to The Row’s show, you shouldn’t seek validation by telling everyone about it. The knowledge that you were there should be enough.</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-35037650713719817642024-02-27T17:47:00.000+00:002024-02-27T17:47:00.384+00:00Milan Fashion Week A/W´24<a href="https://milanofashionweek.cameramoda.it/en/">Milan Fashion Week</a> A/W 2024 dazzled with a myriad of captivating debuts and visionary shifts in creative leadership. Stepping onto the illustrious stage were renowned fashion houses Tod’s and Blumarine, introducing new creative directors who ignited the runway with fresh perspectives and innovative designs. Matteo Tamburini, celebrated for his tenure at Bottega Veneta, assumed the reins at Tod's, while Walter Chiapponi, formerly of Tod’s, ascended to the helm at Blumarine, replacing the esteemed Nicolas Brognano. The illustrious house of Moschino also heralded a new era under the stewardship of Adrian Appiolaza, formerly of Loewe, infusing the brand with his unparalleled vision honed over a decade as the ready-to-wear design director. Amidst the whirlwind of transformations, Milan Fashion Week witnessed the triumphant return of Marni to its hallowed runways, marking a notable shift after seasons of captivating audiences in Paris, Tokyo, and New York.<br /><br />"<i>Milan Fashion Week A/W´24 showcased an electrifying fusion of audacious textures, vivid colour palettes, and enduring sophistication. Designers ingeniously crafted garments that seamlessly blended contemporary flair with timeless elegance. Runways pulsated with daring silhouettes, from voluminous coats to sleek tailored ensembles, each piece exuding confidence and individuality. Rich fabrics such as plush velvets, sumptuous silks, and luxurious furs dominated the collections, enveloping the audience in a sensory journey of opulence. The season celebrated diversity, with designers embracing inclusivity in their casts and designs, amplifying voices and perspectives across the fashion landscape. This current edition epitomised creativity, innovation, and unapologetic glamour</i>." - Charles Daniel McDonald<br /><br />Prada commanded attention with an awe-inspiring A/W 2024 collection, masterfully crafted by the visionary duo of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. Drawing inspiration from 'fragments of the past,' the collection emerged as a poignant ode to the future, seamlessly blending heritage with innovation. Meanwhile, Matthieu Blazy's latest showcase at Bottega Veneta celebrated the beauty of the mundane, infusing each garment with a profound sense of humanity amidst a world in flux. The illustrious lineup of Italian fashion powerhouses, including Giorgio Armani, Max Mara, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Dolce & Gabbana, graced the stage, each presenting their own distinctive interpretation of elegance and luxury. In this exclusive showcase, we unveil the crème de la crème of Milan Fashion Week A/W 2024, where tradition intertwines with innovation to define the future of Italian couture.<br /><br /><b>GIORGIO ARMANI</b><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/1-4.png" width="427" /></div><br />As Milan Fashion Week drew to a close, the illustrious <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giorgio_Armani">Mr. Armani</a> took centre stage on Sunday morning, offering a grand finale befitting his legendary status as a trailblazer in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Italian_fashion#:~:text=Italian%20fashion%20became%20prominent%20during,cosmetics%2C%20jewelry%20and%20rich%20fabrics.">Milanese</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Italian_fashion#:~:text=Italian%20fashion%20became%20prominent%20during,cosmetics%2C%20jewelry%20and%20rich%20fabrics.">Italian</a> fashion for nearly five decades. Set against the backdrop of the intimate <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borgo_Nuovo_(Rome)">Via Borgonuovo</a> space within the iconic headquarters, the maestro unveiled a mesmerising collection of languid glamour, infused with a spirit of rejuvenation. Entitled 'Winter Flowers,' the <a href="https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj-3N3e6suEAxUNCwYAHavTAe8YABAAGgJ3cw&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAiArfauBhApEiwAeoB7qHxJNoEnPE9uEi6-3senBcumEqySVnf_z2pCGdqKgvgf0Cfy5cOnERoChEkQAvD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVuD2Bnzs_cB1T5gGU2NLMm4UKeo2WgjqDV56Z26mgFrWefdRNdHIvo8kLOD_qd24yAtDjn6O4-2Ca4bUslwcYvjI1YF28ZHnn73_BNcLTzZQOVqnyuG_&sig=AOD64_1Y-T1jnE0ShLn0177uURy9doGd9w&q&nis=4&adurl&ved=2ahUKEwiQktbe6suEAxWBaqQEHUr3DpkQ0Qx6BAgFEAE">collection</a> blossomed from the concept of renewal, drawing inspiration from the resilient blooms that defy the chill of winter, symbolising beauty and regrowth. This thematic thread echoed the sentiments expressed by Matthieu Blazy in his recent Bottega Veneta presentation, which explored the resilience of desert flora and cacti.<br /><br />In Mr. Armani's vision, this concept translated into a symphony of extraordinary surface embellishments. Painterly floral prints adorned diaphanous layers of organza, while delicate beaded dragonflies danced across the fabric, casting a spell of ethereal elegance. The colour palette ranged from serene pale blues and lush greens to the profound depths of nocturnal blacks and navies, creating a powerful tableau of contrasting hues. With 'Winter Flowers,' Mr. Armani reaffirmed his mastery of couture craftsmanship and his unwavering ability to capture the essence of renewal and beauty in every stitch. As the curtains closed on Milan Fashion Week, his collection stood as a testament to the enduring allure of Italian style and the eternal cycle of rebirth that inspires it.<br /><br /><b>BOTTEGA VENETA</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/2-2.png" width="426" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.instagram.com/matthieu_blazy/?hl=en">Matthieu Blazy</a>'s latest collection marked a departure from last season's globe-trotting spectacle, embracing a more introspective tone amidst a backdrop of giant <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venetian_glass">Murano glass</a> cactuses blooming in a serene wood-floored show space. Drawing inspiration from the resilient desert plant, Blazy imbued his collection with the spirit of survival and regeneration, echoing the profound resilience required to thrive in challenging landscapes. "In a world ablaze, there's a profound humanity in the simple act of dressing," Blazy mused, envisioning his creations emerging from scorched earth, ready to embark on a journey of renewal. "The idea of rebirth is beautiful. These are the flowers that bloom after the earth is burnt – they give a sense of hope. They come back stronger than ever."<br /><br />With a reverence for the everyday, Blazy elevated the mundane to monumental proportions, infusing the quotidian wardrobe with an aura of allure and confidence. Trench coats, collared shirts, and knitwear took on new life through expansive proportions and innovative fabrications, each garment a testament to resilience and purpose. From instinctively twisted gowns adorned with shiny gobstopper fastenings to fronds of bouncing pleats evoking flames and fire, <a href="https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiEsKGS68uEAxXWW0ECHTYhAUEYABABGgJ3cw&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAiArfauBhApEiwAeoB7qIhV3Yy2lT4POyq87PacqrXzWdEilQVFvYFSKwlLkseZhnqZlwBCFhoCYbEQAvD_BwE&ei=6__dZZm5GKWIxc8Ppu-80Ak&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVuD2rDhHKURy5euvco68IOCXz57aSCjXJQrnChuJHLVHQTuurrWDyrDMw8y_aiUWRLzu88pRHKxSvfnaw5FpiTw4SnmHaF_l7sOpUU_E0gF3B9Lf0tce&sig=AOD64_0gKzdNoZhA_DNq8bBn6OoUPbL3eg&q&sqi=2&nis=4&adurl&ved=2ahUKEwjZ2paS68uEAxUlRPEDHaY3D5oQ0Qx6BAgKEAE">Blazy's collection</a> unfolded as a narrative of transformation and rebirth. Faded motifs of maps hinted at the wanderlust within us all, a reminder of the eternal quest for new horizons. "In times of uncertainty, elegance becomes a symbol of resilience," Blazy reflected. As the world grapples with adversity, his collection serves as a beacon of hope and a celebration of the enduring human spirit. In the act of dressing each day, we affirm our dignity and our capacity to rise from the ashes, renewed and empowered.<br /><br /><b>JIL SANDER</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/3-2.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.instagram.com/meierlucie/?hl=en">Lucie</a> and <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/luke-lucie-meier">Luke Meier</a>'s latest collection for <a href="https://www.jilsander.com/">Jil Sander</a> epitomised a rich tapestry of colour and texture, eschewing traditional seasonal themes for a more expansive evolution of their design ethos. Rooted in a quest for balance between sensitivity and form, intimacy and presence, the <a href="https://www.jilsander.com/">A/W 2024 collection</a> unfolded within a verdant, immersive capsule adorned with striking cobalt-blue horns, inviting guests into a world where sound and music served as catalysts for emotional exploration. The runway echoed with the melodic strains of a live soundtrack by American singer-songwriter <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mk.gee">Mk.gee</a>, setting the stage for a journey through the depths of human emotion. Beginning with vibrant molded dresses and impeccably tailored suits, the collection gradually transitioned towards more dramatic silhouettes, evoking the opulence of mid-century haute couture with a series of captivating caped gowns.<br /><br />Texture and fabrication played pivotal roles, with quilted down and diaphanous chainmail suggesting a sense of protection, while whimsical floral jacquards and fuzzy handbags added a touch of playful charm. Long fronds of tassels trailed gracefully from knitwear, infusing each ensemble with a sense of movement and vitality. At its core, the A/W 2024 collection from Jil Sander was a testament to the brand's commitment to sensory exploration and sartorial innovation. With each piece, Lucie and Luke Meier masterfully crafted a harmonious balance between tradition and modernity, inviting wearers to embark on a transformative journey where every garment tells a story of elegance and grace.<br /><br /><b>DOLCE & GABBANA</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/4-2.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Domenico_Dolce">Domenico Dolce</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stefano_Gabbana">Stefano Gabbana</a> reaffirmed their devotion to enduring sartorial elegance with their latest collection, drawing inspiration from the iconic tuxedo. To amplify the collection's timeless allure, the duo assembled a stellar cast of industry luminaries, including <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naomi_Campbell">Naomi Campbell</a>, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amber_Valletta">Amber Valletta</a>, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mariacarla_Boscono">Mariacarla Boscono</a>, and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eva_Herzigov%C3%A1">Eva Herzigova</a>. "The tuxedo is the ultimate symbol of pure style," the designers declared. "For us, only style transcends fashion: the simpler a piece, a classic like the tuxedo, the more perfect it is, eternal, free from the constraints of time." Showcasing a myriad of interpretations of the classic garment, the collection featured tuxedos cropped to the navel, exaggerated in proportion, and elongated into luxurious overcoats. Interwoven with these timeless pieces were touches of glamour and sensuality synonymous with the house's aesthetic.<br /><br />Lingerie-inspired ensembles provided a captivating counterpoint to the tuxedo's rigor, while enormous feathered coats, glimmering crystal chainmail dresses, and lavish lace and polka dot motifs added a touch of opulence to the runway. "It's a union of contrasts," the designers reflected. "Masculine and feminine, austerity and seduction… allowing every woman the freedom to express her idea of style." With their Tuxedo Collection, <a href="https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjp-pK17MuEAxXBOgYAHX3ADsEYABACGgJ3cw&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAiArfauBhApEiwAeoB7qDLJd1LYOjM_948KbE_g-_cM_kBml95xfTiYmpwRM60712nKE0Yn5RoCIi4QAvD_BwE&ei=QAHeZfzlPM2Vxc8PkOu_QA&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVuD2_VZyZS3dgbtlonrYwrMgEAiOS-CCLe55VuzAhBRO4zDE4shomB4_pLc4ZHKHZ7pG-BzoPVcqhYr7NKfbncn_ZVeqADADI2TttTM4kuCOyPPk6uR7&sig=AOD64_3ELzsWJcnZF5whTLPQ3kFPcoZXgA&q&sqi=2&nis=4&adurl&ved=2ahUKEwj8hYi17MuEAxXNSvEDHZD1DwgQ0Qx6BAgPEAE">Dolce & Gabbana</a> celebrated the harmonious interplay of tradition and innovation, offering women the freedom to embrace their individuality while exuding timeless sophistication and allure.<br /><br /><b>FERRAGAMO</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/5-2.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maximilian_Davis">Maximilian Davis</a> continues to ascend to new heights with a profoundly alluring A/W 2024 collection for <a href="https://www.ferragamo.com/">Ferragamo</a>, seamlessly blending the past with the present in a masterful display of astute style. Drawing inspiration from the liberatory spirit of the 1920s, Davis embarked on a journey to celebrate freedom through the lens of fashion, a sentiment deeply intertwined with his heritage and the essence of Ferragamo. Echoing the fluidity and rebellious energy of the era, the collection exuded a sense of liberation, with silk halterneck gowns cascading into tassels at their sheer hemlines, reminiscent of the iconic flapper dresses. Layers of transparency adorned garments, imbuing them with a modern sensuality and timeless allure. Inspired by Hollywood icons like <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joan_Crawford">Joan Crawford</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greta_Garbo">Greta Garbo</a>, Davis reimagined elements of masculine attire, introducing brilliant wide-shouldered overcoats and tailored pieces with wide buckled waistbands. For men, the defining silhouette emerged with super-abbreviated mini shorts, paired with military-hued tailored jackets and chunky knitwear, evoking a sense of protection and strength.<br /><br />The collection's outerwear featured cape-like silhouettes and elongated, face-covering collars, paying homage to the clandestine spirit of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speakeasy">speakeasies</a> of the 1920s, where individuals found solace in creating their own spaces of freedom and expression. Completing the lineup were exquisite footwear offerings, including elegant T-bar pumps inspired by archival designs, thigh-high wader boots exuding confidence, and whimsical creations adorned with colourful feathers, embodying the essence of Ferragamo's storied history. With Ferragamo's A/W 2024 collection, Maximilian Davis not only honors the legacy of the brand but also propels it forward with his distinctive vision of timeless elegance and unabashed individuality.<br /><br /><b>VERSACE</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/6-2.png" width="511" /></div><div><br />Closing out Friday evening with a thunderous crescendo, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Donatella_Versace">Donatella Versace</a> unveiled a co-ed collection pulsating with a rebellious, punkish spirit, impeccably tailored to the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Versace">Italian house's</a> signature hyper-glamorous style. "The woman is a good girl with a wild soul," declared the visionary designer, capturing the essence of this dichotomy through a striking juxtaposition of prim collared dresses, gold-button blazers, and elongated tweed suits, contrasted with daring lashings of eyeliner, distressed leopard print sweaters, and chainmail-covered jeans provocatively sliced open along the front.<br /><br />Amidst the electric atmosphere, a parade of molten dresses sculpted the body into a narrow corseted waist, exuding the requisite <a href="http://versace.com/">Versace</a> va-va-voom that caught the eye of actress <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anne_Hathaway">Anne Hathaway</a>, who graced the front row in one of these captivating creations. Nods to archival prints reverberated throughout both the men's and women's collections, infusing a sense of heritage into the avant-garde tapestry. "This collection embodies a rebel attitude with a kind heart," Donatella elaborated. "Pure lines, innovative fabrications, and considered wildness. This is us. This is Versace." With each ensemble, she reaffirmed the brand's unwavering commitment to pushing boundaries while celebrating the unapologetic spirit of individuality and self-expression.<br /><br /><b>MARNI</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/7-2.png" width="427" /></div><br />After traversing the globe with shows in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_York_City">New York</a>, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tokyo">Tokyo</a>, and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paris">Paris</a>, <a href="https://www.marni.com/">Marni</a>'s creative director <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/francesco-risso">Francesco Risso</a> embarked on a poignant homecoming, presenting the latest collection in the evocative setting of the railway arches on <a href="https://www.waze.com/es/live-map/directions/it/lombardia/cremona/via-ferrante-aporti,-30?to=place.ChIJuxx7wGf-gEcROY1RBo4xTC4">Via Ferrante Aporti</a>. Enveloped in crinkled white paper, reminiscent of a papier-mâché igloo, the venue served as a symbolic canvas for a collection that began with a clean slate. Titled 'Bring No Clothes,' a nod to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virginia_Woolf">Virginia Woolf</a>'s invitation to shed the trappings of societal norms, Risso banished reference images from the studio walls, encouraging his design team to tap into instinct and play. "By casting out the idolatry of mirrors, filled to the brim with conquering dreams, we have returned to an almost animal state," he reflected in the show's accompanying letter of intent.<br /><br />The collection exuded a primal allure, with sliced panels of fur draped around models' necks and animal prints interwoven with fuzzy, enveloping textures. Childlike creativity flourished in naively painted garments, their raised textures resembling oil paintings, evoking a sense of uninhibited expression. "In returning to that original state of creation, I found inspiration in Virginia Woolf's sentiment of stripping back the punitive structures of clothing," Risso explained. "Here, it's just us—a sense of community that transcends titles and roles." As Marni journeyed back to its roots, Risso invited us to rediscover the essence of creativity, unburdened by societal constraints, and embraced the freedom of self-expression. In this primitive state of creation, the collection resonated with a raw energy and a profound sense of authenticity, reminding us that sometimes, the purest form of artistry emerges from a place of simplicity and connection.<br /><br /><b>GUCCI</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/8-2.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sabato_de_Sarno">Sabato De Sarno</a>'s sophomore <a href="https://www.gucci.com/es/es/">womenswear collection</a> epitomised a seamless continuation of his debut, as the Italian designer sought to encapsulate the essence of his native country's style in a contemporary manner, imbued with an air of insouciance and romance. "My dreams, as with my fashion, always converse with reality," he articulated in a pre-show note, setting the stage for an exploration of merging the mundane with the extraordinary. Held in the industrial setting of <a href="http://www.fonderiamacchi.com/italia/">Fonderia Carlo Macchi</a>, the collection unfolded against a backdrop of raw authenticity. De Sarno's vision embraced the quotidian wardrobe, elevating it with the opulent flourishes of glamour and embellishment courtesy of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gucci#:~:text=Gucci%20was%20founded%20in%201921,the%20Italian%20dolce%20vita%20period.">Gucci atelier</a>. Mannish overcoats cascaded with a waterfall of sequins and paillettes, while intricately layered lace cami tops and dresses evoked a sense of lingerie-inspired allure. Slouchy knit cardigans sparkled with shimmering crystal-decorated collars, juxtaposing comfort with extravagance.<br /><br />Tailoring took centre stage, cinched at the waist and paired with abbreviated shorts reminiscent of 1960s silhouettes. An impressive array of leather jackets adorned with the double-G monogram showcased the house's mastery of the material, adding a touch of signature sophistication. The grand finale unveiled a duo of carved strapless gowns, exuding seductive simplicity yet adorned with enough pizzazz to captivate the celebrity-filled front row, including luminaries such as <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solange_Knowles">Solange Knowles</a>, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirsten_Dunst">Kirsten Dunst</a>, and De Sarno's muse, British actress <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daisy_Edgar-Jones">Daisy Edgar-Jones</a>. "I aim to capture the extraordinary where the ordinary is expected," De Sarno declared, encapsulating his unwavering commitment to redefining the boundaries of contemporary elegance and allure.<br /><br /><b>SPORTMAX</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/9-2.png" width="427" /></div><br />This season, the <a href="https://www.sportmax.com/">Sportmax</a> design team embarked on a captivating journey away from the futuristic austerity of previous collections, drawing inspiration from underground icon <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nico">Nico</a> and her seminal 1985 album, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camera_Obscura_(album)">Camera Obscura</a>. Embracing the enigmatic allure of Nico's persona, the collection exuded a mood of sensuality and intrigue, evoking the mysterious depths hidden within her gaze. A poignant quote from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gerard_Malanga">Gerard Malanga</a>, a poet and assistant to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andy_Warhol">Andy Warhol</a>, set the tone for the collection, encapsulating the elusive mystique surrounding Nico: "Nico's eyes seem to guard a great mystery which, hidden in aloofness, they do not want anyone to know exists. Whether or not a mystery is there, the eyes with the enigma of their absence from what surrounds them eclipse the perfection of features and form to add great magnetism."<br /><br />Against the backdrop of the dimly lit upper corridors of the <a href="https://triennale.org/">Triennale di Milano</a> contemporary art museum, models prowled the curved mirrored catwalk, their vertiginous heels pounding with determination. Plunging black mini dresses adorned with spikes exuded a fierce sensuality, while sharp, wide-shouldered tailoring and cinched waists, achieved through clever layering, paid homage to the resolve of a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmut_Newton">Helmut Newton</a> muse. Echoes of Nico's 1980s contemporaries, including <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grace_Jones">Grace Jones</a>, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Debbie_Harry">Debbie Harry</a>, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annie_Lennox">Annie Lennox</a>, and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siouxsie_Sioux">Siouxsie Sioux</a>, reverberated throughout the collection in nostalgic album cover-inspired prints, creating a collage of iconic imagery that celebrated the spirit of the era. Sportmax's exploration of Nico's enigmatic legacy resonated with a modern audience, capturing the essence of her timeless allure and infusing it with contemporary elegance and sophistication. In this evocative homage, the brand transcended fashion to evoke a sense of mystery and magnetism, inviting wearers to embrace their inner intrigue and sensuality.<br /><br /><b>TOD´S</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/10-2.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.vogue.com/article/tods-appoints-matteo-tamburini-as-creative-director">Matteo Tamburini</a> made a bold statement with his debut <a href="https://www.tods.com/ww-en/home/">Tod's</a> collection, choosing the iconic <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Messina_tram_depot">Messina Tram Depot</a> in northern <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milan">Milan</a> as the venue—a symbolic gesture of the brand's forward momentum. Against the backdrop of the bustling streets, where yellow Milanese trams proudly sported the Tod's logo, Tamburini unveiled a collection inspired by contemporary Italian elegance and infused with a deep appreciation for local craftsmanship. For both men and women, Tamburini curated a luxurious everyday wardrobe that exuded effortless style. From layers of ribbed knitwear and roomy trench coats to dramatic leather gowns adorned with tassels, the collection showcased a harmonious blend of sophistication and street-inspired energy. Drawing on his experience at <a href="https://www.bottegaveneta.com/">Bottega Veneta</a>, Tamburini's expertise shone through in the narrow, streamlined looks that opened the show—featuring sharply cut overcoats, double-layered striped shirts, and gently flared tailored trousers with wide folded hems, presenting a convincingly contemporary silhouette.<br /><br />Footwear remained the cornerstone of the brand, with Tamburini introducing a modern twist to the classic <a href="https://www.tods.com/ww-en/Men/Shoes/Gommini-and-City-Gommini/c/211-Tods/">Gommino loafer</a> for men, featuring a minimal metal bar in place of the traditional tie fastening. For women, the iconic style was adorned with playful fronds of leather tassels, adding a touch of whimsy to the collection. In his debut for Tod's, Matteo Tamburini redefined Italian elegance for the modern age, seamlessly blending tradition with innovation to create a collection that captures the essence of timeless sophistication and urban allure.<br /><br /><b>PRADA</b></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/11-2.png" width="427" /></div><div><br /><a href="https://www.prada.com/">Prada</a>'s A/W 2024 show commenced with an innate attraction to history, unfolding within the same <a href="https://www.oma.com/news/stedelijk-base-the-new-exhibition-space-for-the-stedelijk-s-permanent-collection-designed-by-amo-rem-koolhaas-opens-to-the-public">OMA</a>/<a href="https://www.oma.com/news/stedelijk-base-the-new-exhibition-space-for-the-stedelijk-s-permanent-collection-designed-by-amo-rem-koolhaas-opens-to-the-public">AMO</a>-designed space as the house's previous menswear presentation. While the setting, adorned with vast Perspex tiles simulating a forest floor, lacked its prior corporate-office-meets-nature juxtaposition, co-creative directors <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miuccia_Prada">Miuccia Prada</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raf_Simons">Raf Simons</a> embarked on a profound journey into the fragments of historical dress. Rejecting misty-eyed nostalgia, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prada">Prada</a> and <a href="https://rafsimons.com/">Simons</a> delved into the emotional resonance of clothing, emphasizing its capacity to preserve memories and evoke romance. "History, for me, is always connected to the lives of people," remarked Miuccia Prada. "There is a sense of romance to this collection—of values of love and caring embedded in the clothes."<br /><br />The collection unfolded as a tapestry of feminine adornments, from bows to ruffles, juxtaposed with suggestions of military attire, evoking a haunting duality. Simons noted, "This is not about a narrative history... it's an attraction to different moments in time which now feel new." Dresses adorned with bows, petticoat-style slips, and sculpted tailoring recalled various eras, reshaped to create a richly imagined narrative. However, amidst the opulence, there lay a sense of warning—a reflection on history's lessons and the complexities of the present moment. "Reflecting on history teaches us our mistakes, our strengths," emphasised <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/miuccia-prada">Miuccia Prada</a>. "This is a collection shaped by history... about remembering our past to move forwards." "In this complicated moment, it is vital to know your history," added Simons. "You can only realise your future if you know your past." Through their meticulous exploration of historical fragments, Prada and Simons crafted a poignant narrative, inviting wearers to engage with the complexities of the past as they navigate an uncertain future.<br /><br /><b>EMPORIO ARMANI</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/12-1.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.armani.com/es-es/experience/emporio-armani">Emporio Armani</a>'s A/W 2024 show concluded with a captivating flurry of snow, casting a surreal backdrop against which <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giorgio_Armani">Mr. Armani</a>'s models gracefully marched, unfazed by the sudden change in weather. The collection, aptly titled "Night Glow," transported viewers into the ethereal realm of the luminous night sky, showcasing a kaleidoscope of eveningwear looks that shimmered with celestial allure. Against a palette spanning from midnight black to mauve, violet, jade green, and tones of grey, the models exuded elegance and sophistication in sequinned tuxedos, shimmering crescent-moon adorned suits, crystal bra tops, and sculpted evening gowns. Each ensemble captured the essence of the night sky, evoking its changing tonal hues and celestial beauty.<br /><br />Embracing the spirit of freedom that defines Emporio Armani, the collection featured silhouettes designed to empower and inspire. From billowing trousers with sweatpant-style gathered hems to diaphanous organza skirts and boldly coloured flourishes of chubby faux fur, each piece exuded a sense of effortless sophistication and modernity. Amidst the blizzard of style, Emporio Armani's collection emerged as a radiant beacon of elegance and allure, inviting wearers to embrace the enchanting splendor of the night sky and bask in the luminous glow of timeless style.<br /><br /><b>MAX MARA</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/13-1.png" width="427" /></div><br />For over three decades, <a href="https://mojeh.com/fashion/people-max-mara-ian-griffiths-designer-interview/">Ian Griffiths</a> has curated a distinguished lineage of influential women from history to serve as muses for his <a href="https://www.maxmara.com/">Max Mara</a> collections. This season, against the backdrop of a drizzly Milanese morning, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ian_griffiths1/?hl=en">Griffiths</a> unveiled his A/W 2024 offering in a luminous former industrial space on <a href="https://www.tuttocitta.it/mappa/milano/via-giovanni-battista-piranesi-34">Via Giovanni Battista Piranesi</a>, drawing inspiration from the rebellious French author <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colette">Colette</a>. Renowned for her sensual prose that illuminated the innermost desires of women at the turn of the 20th century, Colette's spirit infused the collection with a seductive allure. Enveloping overcoats crafted from sumptuously soft textures, ribbed knit bands delicately cinching the waist, and asymmetric skirts draped and folded onto the body evoked moments of pleasure and intimacy.<br /><br />Griffiths' trademark subtle juxtapositions permeated the collection, seamlessly blending weight and lightness, glamour and ease, and the masculine and feminine. A riff on a military officer's coat or a fisherman's sweater paid homage to Colette's defiance of gender norms, reflecting her bold sartorial choices. Echoing Colette's assertion of self-defined beauty, the collection epitomised liberation and self-expression. As articulated by the author herself, "Beautiful? For whom? Why, for myself, of course." With each meticulously crafted piece, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max_Mara">Max Mara</a> celebrated the enduring legacy of Colette and her unwavering commitment to individuality and autonomy.<br /><br /><b>FENDI</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/14-1.png" width="427" /></div><br />The <a href="https://www.fendi.com/">Fendi</a> showspace on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/locations/279172720/via-solari-milano/">Via Solari</a> was transformed into a hypnotic labyrinth of rooms, each partitioned by enormous drapes of coloured silk, setting the stage for a captivating journey through time and style. Creative director of couture and womenswear, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kim_Jones_(designer)">Kim Jones</a>, drew inspiration from archival looks of the mid-1980s, infusing the collection with an impressive array of fabric contortions and intricate details. From cinching day-glo strips layered over simple black roll-necks to complex knits crisscrossing over the neck, the collection showcased Fendi's mastery of fabric manipulation. The drapes, reminiscent of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Rome">Roman statuary</a>, paid homage to the brand's home city, appearing as prints and intricate embroidery on garments. Jones' fascination with Rome's unique elegance, influenced by house scion <a href="https://www.delfinadelettrez.com/">Delfina Delettrez</a> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fendi">Fendi</a>, added depth to the collection's narrative.<br /><br />Delving further into the archive, Jones found inspiration in the vibrant and subversive dress codes of his native London in the 1980s, particularly the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Romantic">New Romantics</a> and figures like <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leigh_Bowery">Leigh Bowery</a>. Flourishes of polka dots, a signature of Bowery, and bursts of piercing colour contrasted with rigorous, sculpted black tailoring, embodying the liberated spirit of the era. "The sketches reminded me of London during that period: the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blitz_Kids">Blitz Kids</a>, the New Romantics, the adoption of workwear, aristocratic style, Japanese style," explained Jones. "It was a point when <a href="https://www.a-england.co.uk/inspiration/british-subcultures/">British subcultures</a> and styles became global and absorbed global influences. Yet still with a British elegance in ease and not giving a damn what anybody else thinks, something that chimes with Roman style." Fendi's A/W 2024 collection celebrated the intersection of elegance and subversion, weaving together elements of history, culture, and personal narrative to create a rich tapestry of style and self-expression.<br /><br /><b>NO.21</b></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/15-1.png" width="427" /></div><div><br /><a href="https://alessandrodellacqua.com/">Alessandro Dell'Acqua</a>'s enigmatic portrayal of womanhood at <a href="https://www.numeroventuno.com/">No. 21</a> continues to intrigue, unveiling a captivating interpretation of bourgeois dress codes in his latest collection. Drawing inspiration from the notion of '<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bon_Ton">bon ton</a>'—a symbol of elegance and refinement rooted in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Social_class_in_the_United_Kingdom">British high society</a> of the 19th century, and later revived during the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haute_couture#:~:text=History%20in%20France,-Learn%20more&text=Haute%20couture%20can%20be%20referenced,attained%20guild%20privileges%20in%201675.">haute couture</a> resurgence of the 1980s—<a href="https://alessandrodellacqua.com/">Dell'Acqua</a> crafted a collection that exuded nostalgic charm with a contemporary twist. The echoes of the 1980s haute couture era resonated throughout the collection, manifested in plunging black gowns adorned with bows, cocooning double-breasted overcoats, and impeccably tailored tweed suiting. Dell'Acqua's fascination with the decade's avant-garde couture collections breathed new life into his designs, infusing them with a sense of decadence and allure. "It's as if I had cast my gaze deeply into a fashion story and made it come alive again," remarked Alessandro of the collection's nostalgic ambiance.<br /><br />However, it was <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alessandro_Dell%27Acqua">Dell'Acqua</a>'s penchant for juxtaposition that truly captivated, as functional harness-style fastenings adorned ladylike dresses embellished with crystals, men's brogues were paired with satin strapless gowns, and slouchy <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_Isle_(technique)#:~:text=Fair%20Isle%20(%2Ff%C9%9B%C9%99ra%C9%AA%CC%AFl%2F),jumpers%20in%20public%20in%201921.">Fair Isle</a> jumpers were layered over sheer skirts and pointed pumps. Each ensemble exuded a disruptive sensuality, encapsulating the designers exploration of bourgeois eroticism with conscious sophistication. In his hands, <a href="https://www.numeroventuno.com/">No. 21's A/W 2024</a> collection emerges as a testament to his mastery of juxtaposition and his ability to evoke a sense of provocative elegance. Through his innovative reinterpretation of bourgeois codes, Dell'Acqua invites wearers to embrace a new paradigm of sensuality and style.</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-24866458630377538052024-02-27T17:32:00.007+00:002024-02-27T17:48:24.419+00:00London Fashion Week A/W´24<a href="https://londonfashionweek.co.uk/">London Fashion Week</a> A/W 2024 marked a significant milestone as it celebrated its 40th anniversary since its inception in the early 1980s by British PR maven <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lynne_Franks">Lynne Franks</a>, who is rumored to have inspired the character of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edina_Monsoon">Edina Monsoon</a> in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Absolutely_Fabulous">Absolutely Fabulous</a>. Throughout its four-decade history, the event has maintained a distinctive blend of emerging talent, epitomised by fashion incubator Fashion East, and established icons such as <a href="https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en-es/home/">Vivienne Westwood</a> and Burberry. Notably, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elizabeth_II">Queen Elizabeth II</a> made a memorable appearance at a <a href="https://www.richardquinn.com/">Richard Quinn</a> show in 2018, adding to the event's prestige.<br /><br />´<i>This latest edition continued to uphold the week's rich legacy, commencing with the highly anticipated return of historic British house Dunhill after a four-year hiatus, under the guidance of new creative director Simon Holloway. JW Anderson, led by its eponymous designer Jonathan Anderson, also captivated audiences, reminiscing on his early rise to prominence at Fashion East in the 2010s. Burberry, helmed by Daniel Lee, presented its third runway show for the esteemed British label at Victoria Park on Monday evening, drawing considerable attention</i>.´ - Charles Daniel McDonald<br /><br />The schedule encompassed a diverse array of designers, including stalwarts like Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, Roksanda, and Erdem, alongside a vibrant showcase of next-generation talent, featuring KNWLS, Aaron Esh, and Conner Ives, among others. The Central Saint Martins MA fashion show further underscored London Fashion Week's commitment to fostering emerging creativity and pushing the boundaries of fashion innovation.<br /><br /><b>BURBERRY</b><div><b><br /></b><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/2-1.png" width="512" /></div><br /><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Lee_(designer)">Daniel Lee's</a> third runway collection for <a href="https://www.burberry.com/">Burberry</a> marked a return to the great outdoors, as showcased in a vast tent set up in east London's <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victoria_Park,_London">Victoria Park</a>. Drawing inspiration from Burberry's heritage of outdoor wear, Lee's collection exuded warmth and protection, encapsulating the brand's synonymous relationship with outerwear.<br /><br />The thematic link of the great outdoors has been evident throughout Lee's opening triptych, initially inspired by tents and outdoor-wear from the late 19th and early 20th centuries found in Burberry's archive. "Burberry's heritage of the outdoors continues to inspire me," remarked the Yorkshire-born designer. The runway presentation was accompanied by a soundtrack featuring a collage of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amy_Winehouse">Amy Winehouse</a> clips and music, inspired by her tenacious desire to express herself authentically.<br /><br />The collection showcased Burberry's iconic outerwear, including a funnel-neck moleskin version of the trench coat, abbreviated parkas, puffers, and hefty shearlings. Textural richness prevailed, with British and Irish wool and fabric used across pleated skirts, zip-front trousers, and enveloping knitwear, all designed with functionality in mind for outdoor wear. The diverse lineup of models, featuring industry icons such as <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agyness_Deyn">Agyness Deyn</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/lilydonaldson/?hl=en">Lily Donaldson</a>, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lily_Cole">Lily Cole</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/naomi/?hl=en">Naomi Campbell</a>, and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ediebcampbell/?hl=en">Edie Campbell</a>, evoked a sense of nostalgia for Burberry's cultural prominence in the 2010s.<br /><br />Reflecting on the challenges of designing for a brand with such broad appeal, Lee emphasised the importance of having a distinct point of view. With this collection, he made a bold statement, offering seductive propositions for real-world winter dressing while pushing the boundaries of Burberry's traditional aesthetic. "You can't just make a simple trench coat forever," noted Lee, underscoring his commitment to innovation and evolution within the iconic British brand.<br /><br /><b>AARON ESH</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/3-1.png" width="512" /></div><br /><a href="https://antonioli.eu/es-ca/collections/designer-aaron-esh">Aaron Esh,</a> the burgeoning London-based designer, unveiled a captivating winter collection on Sunday evening, bringing the curtain down on London Fashion Week in an intimate show at east <a href="https://sarabandefoundation.org/">London's Sarabande</a>. Esh's recent inclusion in the foundation, established by <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_McQueen">Lee McQueen</a> to support emerging artists and designers, underscores his rising prominence in the fashion scene.<br /><br />Drawing inspiration from the dress codes of his inner circle, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/aaron.esh/?hl=en">Esh's</a> collection builds upon his runway debut in September 2023, where he showcased his designs at <a href="https://www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-modern">Tate Modern</a> against the backdrop of London's iconic skyline. Rooted in the vibrant energy of his native city and its dynamic streets, Esh's designs capture a disheveled sensuality, blending slinky bias-cut dresses, smeared eyeliner, sunglasses, caps, and hoodies with intriguing tailoring.<br /><br />The collection exudes an effortless allure, with wide-lapelled tuxedos featuring poker-straight hems that evolve into expansive overcoats, and pinched hooded tailored jackets cinched closed by the models' hands. Esh aims to imbue his clothing with a sense of ease that belies the meticulous craft and construction behind each piece, an ambition realised as the models exude an air of nonchalant sophistication akin to returning home from a night out or the morning after.<br /><br />Notably, the collection introduces skinny jeans, signaling a revival of the silhouette popularised by <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hedi_Slimane">Hedi Slimane</a> during his tenure at <a href="https://www.dior.com/es_es/fashion">Dior Homme</a> in the 2000s. Slimane's distinctive fusion of subculture influences appears to inspire Esh's evolving body of work, adding depth and resonance to his growing oeuvre.<br /><br /><b>JW ANDERSON</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/4-1.png" width="512" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.jwanderson.com/">Jonathan Anderson's</a> A/W 2024 collection took a nostalgic journey into the eccentricities of everyday life, drawing inspiration from nosy neighbours, humble <a href="https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjl6s7Du8iEAxW2BAYAHSZbDLQYABAAGgJ3cw&ase=2&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5-uuBhDzARIsAAa21T9SoIAbpl31XK96tbRxnXipGLpdW8tpFGWtfDjS7iJ6lCExR90rmpUaAsbZEALw_wcB&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVuD2Kx57JUfP_LFFeE797yMVZtjdhFEqBp5ILu2TMd-TyCMXqQivinyrmSXLxRUmJ-NyNpu2_dNdSs_AoFX8LLB9386YstmNzm_DIAQxJu2uduXfuhZX&sig=AOD64_0WYt2iK3J99wnmcu5OxcnmgQ7ikg&q&nis=4&adurl&ved=2ahUKEwjh8MXDu8iEAxWB4gIHHa1ACs8Q0Qx6BAgCEAE">M&S</a> knickers, and forgotten horse riding trophies. Presented at Marylebone’s <a href="https://www.everyoneactive.com/centre/seymour-leisure-centre/">Seymour Leisure Centre</a>, a departure from The Roundhouse, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jonathan_Anderson_(fashion_designer)">Anderson's</a> vision unfolded with a twist, capturing a mood of "grotesque everydayness" through distorted proportions and exaggerated details.<br /><br />Knit dresses adorned with oversized stitches, cascades of blown-up haberdashery embellishments, and layers of ribbed underwear and vests mingled with house slippers and brassy grey curly wigs, creating a strangely captivating ensemble. Anderson's adeptness at traversing the realms of seduction and the grotesque was on full display, showcasing his unique ability to seamlessly blend the alluring with the unconventional.<br /><br />In a nod to interior aesthetics, twisted dresses reminiscent of curtains and curtain ties draped elegantly around the models' bodies, with a pearl iteration offering a modern twist on bridal attire. Outerwear pieces paid homage to British heritage styles, reimagined in oversized silhouettes with a slightly disheveled charm. Meanwhile, timeless staples like striped sweaters and sweatpant shorts added a sense of familiarity amidst the collection's avant-garde exploration.<br /><br />Anderson revealed backstage that the collection was a contemplation of Britain's past, refracted through a lens of nostalgia and subversion. He remarked on the current trend of young people rediscovering and glorifying elements from the past, reconfiguring them in a futuristic context. This approach to nostalgia, he noted, serves as a bridge between generations, transforming it from a daunting prospect into a catalyst for innovative reinterpretation and forward-thinking design.<br /><br /><b>SIMONE ROCHA</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/5-1.png" width="512" /></div><br /><a href="https://simonerocha.com/">Simone Rocha's</a> A/W 2024 collection marked the conclusion of a three-part series, beginning with "Dress Rehearsal" and culminating in "The Wake." Presented in the medieval church <a href="https://www.greatstbarts.com/">St Bartholomew-the-Great</a> in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smithfield,_London">Smithfield</a>, the collection delved into the mourning attire of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Queen_Victoria">Queen Victoria</a> following the death of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prince_Albert_of_Saxe-Coburg_and_Gotha">Prince Albert</a>, serving as a poignant exploration of darkness intertwined with beauty.<br /><br />Faux fur adorned delicate, nearly-transparent tailoring, evoking a sense of somber elegance. Crystal-embellished corsets, reminiscent of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Simone_Rocha">Rocha's</a> collaboration with <a href="https://www.jeanpaulgaultier.com/us/en">Jean Paul Gaultier</a>, added a touch of shimmering opulence. Unexpected accessories, such as soft-toy lambs carried by the models, paid homage to mythical creatures serving as guardians in churches.<br /><br />Mourning blacks were reimagined in tie-hem anoraks, paired with faux-fur stoles adorned with crystals, showcasing Rocha's ability to infuse traditional elements with contemporary relevance. Rocha explained backstage that the collection drew inspiration from preserved garments and archival references, aiming to seamlessly blend historical influences with modern sensibilities.<br /><br />Overall, "The Wake" served as a poignant conclusion to Rocha's triptych, weaving together themes of mourning, tradition, and renewal in a collection that resonated with both depth and beauty.<br /><br /><b>MOLLY GODDARD</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/6-1.png" width="512" /></div><br /><a href="https://mollygoddard.com/en-es">Molly Goddard's</a> latest collection was staged against the vibrant backdrop of a mural by London Group artist <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ivon_Hitchens">Ivon Hitchens</a>, setting the tone for a collection characterised by freewheeling creativity. Held at <a href="https://www.efdss.org/cecil-sharp-house">Cecil Sharp House</a>, the home of the <a href="https://www.efdss.org/">English Folk Dance and Song Society</a> in north London, the show drew inspiration from the dynamic composition of Hitchens' mural, which depicts abstract figures dancing in a mythical woodland.<br /><br /><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molly_Goddard">Goddard's</a> design process began with an experimental fitting, where vintage pieces, samples from her archive, and toiles were combined to spark the collection's direction. Inspired by shapes and forms, the designer explored combinations of garments, pulling in, pushing out, and smushing fabrics to create dynamic silhouettes. Influenced by the haute couture techniques of <a href="http://balenciaga.com">Balenciaga</a> and Dior, Goddard infused everyday wear with elasticated and tie fastenings for a relaxed yet sophisticated feel.<br /><br />Tulle played a prominent role in the collection, with tightly ruffled shapes resembling "blobs" adorning skirts, shirts, and dresses, adding drama and texture to the looks. These ethereal tulle pieces were juxtaposed with slouchy sweaters, cowboy jackets, and polka-dot tops, creating a refreshing blend of whimsy and sophistication that characterised Goddard's signature style.<br /><br /><b>ROKSANDA</b></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/7-1.png" width="427" /></div><div><br /><a href="https://www.instagram.com/zendaya/?hl=en">Zendaya's</a> recent appearance in a plum-hued <a href="https://roksanda.com/">Roksanda</a> suit at the London premiere of "<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dune:_Part_Two">Dune: Part Two</a>" turned out to be a preview of the A/W 2024 collection presented at the Tate Britain. Designer <a href="https://www.instagram.com/roksandailincic/?hl=en">Roksanda Ilinčić</a> drew inspiration from the iconic architect <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le_Corbusier">Le Corbusier</a>, particularly his holiday cabin, <a href="https://lecorbusier-worldheritage.org/en/cabanon-de-le-corbusier/">Cabanon de Le Corbusier</a>, located in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cape_Martin#:~:text=Cape%20Martin%20(French%3A%20Cap%20Martin,was%20named%20after%20the%20headland.">Cap Martin</a>, France. The collection featured tapestries referencing the cabin's murals, with fabrics like melton wool, boucle, fil coupé jacquard, and faux fur evoking the comfort of home interiors.<br /><br /><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roksanda_Ilin%C4%8Di%C4%87">Roksanda's</a> signature use of colour was prominent in the collection, with shades like Chartreuse-Verse, Canvas, Dark Flamant, and Grey-Melange dominating the palette. Sporty elements, reminiscent of windbreakers and wellington boots, were incorporated, with footwear produced in collaboration with Fit Flop. The show concluded with oversized taffeta dresses resembling tents, evoking imagery of a windswept day by the coast followed by the warmth of a lavishly decorated home.<br /><br /><b>16 ARLINGTON</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/8-1.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://coveti.com/5-london-fashion-designers/">Marco Capaldi's</a> A/W 2024 collection for <a href="https://16arlington.co.uk/">16Arligton</a> was inspired by <a href="https://charliefox.org/">Charlie Fox's</a> 2019 exhibition "<a href="https://www.sadiecoles.com/exhibitions/713-my-head-is-a-haunted-house-curated-by-charlie-fox/press_release_text/">My Head is a Haunted House</a>," which explored childhood obsessions with werewolves, bats, and monsters. Capaldi translated this theme into a more elegant context, infusing his sharp, streamlined vision for the brand with touches of strangeness. Swathes of shaggy faux fur and clattering tinsel looks added a whimsical yet sophisticated element to the collection.<br /><br />The garments evoked a sense of the monstrous, with diaphanous white dresses reminiscent of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bride_of_Frankenstein">Frankenstein's bride</a> and shirts and sweaters tied around the neck in a nod to unconventional styling. Capaldi emphasised that the collection was not about Halloween but rather about human nature, borrowing the title "I’m Not Sorry, It’s Human Nature" from <a href="http://madonna.com/">Madonna</a>. He aimed to celebrate those who reject societal norms, finding strength, power, and beauty in non-conformity. These individuals were the inspiration behind Capaldi's designs for 16Arlington.<br /><br /><b>DUNHILL</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/9-1.png" width="427" /></div><div><br /><a href="https://www.dunhill.com/">Dunhill's</a> first runway show since 2020, under the creative direction of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Simon_Holloway">Simon Holloway</a>, took place at the Duveen Wing of the <a href="https://www.npg.org.uk/">National Portrait Gallery</a>, a venue steeped in history and classicism. This choice signaled a return to Dunhill's British heritage, celebrating its 130th year. The presentation harkened back to traditional salon-style fashion presentations of the early 20th century, with low-lit individual tables, gin martinis, and cucumber and caviar sandwiches.<br /><br /><a href="https://www.instagram.com/mrsimonholloway/?hl=en">Holloway</a> described the A/W 2024 collection as a celebration of Dunhill's origins and evolution into a unique British luxury house. Drawing inspiration from the brand's rich tailoring heritage and tradition of dressing figures from stage and screen, the collection featured a range of garments reflecting the "finer things in life." From nods to motor racing with suede field jackets and leather driving gloves to outdoor pursuits with gabardine chinos, heritage check blazers, and corduroy, the collection encapsulated a sense of refined elegance.<br /><br />Evening wear was also prominent, including an elegant ivory tuxedo with matching bowtie and overcoat, paired unexpectedly with sneakers. Holloway emphasised that these elements represent Dunhill's core strengths and expressed hope that the collection would capture a refined yet international spirit, setting the tone for his tenure ahead.<br /><br /><b>FASHION EAST</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/10-1.png" width="427" /></div><div><br />This season's <a href="https://www.fashioneast.co.uk/">Fashion East</a> designers, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/olly.shinder/?hl=en">Olly Shinder</a> and <a href="https://johannaparv.com/">Johanna Parv</a>, presented their own interpretations of the nine-to-five wardrobe, each with their distinctive twists. Shinder, known for his exploration of nightlife uniforms, shifted his focus to the corporate world, offering a queer and refined take on the corporate uniform. Pieces like "middle managerial" shirting with sliced backs and clean-lined functional sets with PVC details conveyed a sense of displacement and subversion. Alongside these, Shinder introduced dance floor-ready pieces such as latex bodysuits and abbreviated mini shorts, catering to a diverse audience.</div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/11-1.png" width="427" /></div><br />On the other hand, Parv explored the functionality of sportswear and technical fabrics, aiming to incorporate them into various aspects of a woman's wardrobe. Her polished collection for this season drew inspiration from the "topography of the city" and urban life's demands, resulting in darker and more sensual pieces. Skirt suits with front and shoulder cut-outs and featherweight zip-up mini dresses reflected this aesthetic. Parv's collection was complemented by clever accessories like leather bumbags and handbags with adjustable nylon straps, reminiscent of backpacks. As Parv moves forward, her innovative approach to blending sportswear elements into everyday wear will be intriguing to watch.</div></div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-83626952821382153252024-02-27T17:24:00.003+00:002024-02-27T17:49:23.011+00:00New York Fashion Week A/W´24Experience the grandeur of <a href="https://nyfw.com/">New York Fashion Week</a> Autumn / Winter 2024, marking the illustrious inauguration of fashion month, with forthcoming rendezvous in <a href="https://londonfashionweek.co.uk/">London</a>, <a href="https://fashionweekonline.com/milan">Milan</a>, and <a href="https://www.fhcm.paris/en/paris-fashion-week">Paris</a>. Kicking off with an electrifying debut, Peter Do's sophomore collection for Helmut Lang seduced the audience, seamlessly weaving the narrative of armor and adornment, solidifying his status as one of the city's most captivating visionaries.<br /><br />´<i>In a momentous New York Fashion Week premiere, Ludovic de Saint Sernin paid homage to the legendary photographer Robert Mapplethorpe, infusing Parisian elegance into the bustling streets of New York. The runway was ablaze with anticipation as iconic labels such as Coach, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors, Thom Browne, and Tory Burch unveiled their latest triumphs, leaving an indelible mark on the season. Here, we present the standout showcases that defined the pinnacle of style and innovation</i>.´ - Charles Daniel McDonald<div><br /></div><div><b>THOM BROWNE</b><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/2.png" width="427" /></div><br />In a dazzling spectacle on Valentine's Day, <a href="https://www.thombrowne.com/">Thom Browne's</a> latest show transcended the romantic holiday, delving into darker realms with inspiration drawn from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edgar_Allan_Poe">Edgar Allan Poe's</a> haunting poem, "<a href="https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poems/48860/the-raven">The Raven</a>," penned in 1845. The narrative unfolds around a man haunted by a talking raven after the demise of his beloved, spiraling into a chilling descent into madness. Within this narrative framework, Browne's collection, narrated by the captivating <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrie_Coon">Carrie Coon</a> of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Gilded_Age_(TV_series)">The Gilded Age</a> fame, took shape, interweaving elements of <a href="https://www.thombrowne.com/ch/commerce/changecountry?subf=%2Fit&returnUrl=/shopping/notched-collar-long-coat-18569714">Chesterfield puffers</a> and silk moiré into a hauntingly reimagined tale.<br /><br />Browne's theatrical genius flourished amidst a cast of towering figures exuding an eerie charm, their tousled hair fashioned into sculptural plaits or delicately veiled in mourning attire. The monochromatic palette of blacks and whites evoked a theatricality akin to a series of tweed blazers, whether embellished with checks or deconstructed into patchwork marvels. A motif of black ravens soared across white coats, culminating in a dramatic finale featuring an opulent gold brocade cape, symbolically shed like a "beguiling golden bug" at the show's conclusion.<br /><br />Dominating the scene was a towering arboreal figure swathed in a colossal 30-foot-high rendition of Browne's iconic Chesterfield puffer—a breathtaking flourish from the designer renowned for his theatrical flair. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thom_Browne">Thom Browne</a> once again proved his mastery in the art of storytelling through fashion, captivating audiences with his unparalleled vision and showmanship.</div><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="text-align: center;">GABRIELA HEARST</span><br /></b><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/3.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.gabrielahearst.com/">Gabriela Hearst's</a> creative journey this season was ignited by the ethereal paintings of artist <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leonora_Carrington">Leonora Carrington</a>. However, rather than appropriating Carrington's art as mere inspiration, Hearst chose to illuminate a cadre of remarkable women who had introduced her to Carrington's world—ranging from esteemed art historian and author <a href="https://www.thegreatwomenartists.com/">Katy Hessel</a> to journalist <a href="https://www.ft.com/jackie-wullschl%C3%A4ger">Jackie Wullschläger</a> and writer <a href="http://www.joannamoorhead.org/">Joanna Moorhead</a>. "Teaching us empathy and about how others live; and to dream up a better world for all," remarked Hessel of the surrealist artist's profound influence.<br /><br />There's an undeniable allure to Hearst's designs, particularly amidst the winter season, with their opulent shearlings and sweeping gowns elegantly paired with riding boots. Yet, upon closer inspection, one discovers Hearst's signature eco-conscious ethos at play. What may appear to be shearling is, in fact, meticulously crafted from shredded post-consumer recycled cashmere sourced from Italian cashmere jumpers—an embodiment of Hearst's unwavering commitment to sustainability. Each garment in the collection is meticulously detailed in a document, elucidating the origin and composition of every fabric, a testament to Hearst's transparency and dedication to ethical practices.<br /><br />This season's offerings boast a sumptuous array of 100 percent natural fibers, including innovative creations such as fine cashmere corduroy—a groundbreaking debut in fabric production. Liquid silk velvet, woven on historical <a href="https://magnifissance.com/arts/artisanship/venetian-velvet-looms/">French velvet looms</a> operated by a lone mill in Lyon, adds a luxurious texture to the collection. Additionally, a printed wool gauze, inspired by flora discovered during Hearst's travels, lends a whimsical yet sophisticated touch to her designs. Through her meticulous craftsmanship and conscientious sourcing, Gabriela Hearst continues to redefine luxury fashion with a harmonious blend of elegance and sustainability.<br /><br /><b>MICHAEL KORS</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/4.png" width="512" /></div><br />In a celebration of enduring style, <a href="https://www.michaelkors.com/">Michael Kors</a> christened his A/W 2024 collection 'Timeless,' a testament to his unwavering commitment to refining the essence of a woman's wardrobe beyond fleeting trends. Set against the backdrop of the former <a href="https://www.saksfifthavenue.com/c/barneys-at-saks?site_refer=barneys">Barneys New York</a> space in Chelsea—a historic bastion of American fashion—Kors' showcase paid homage to the foundational elements of his eponymous label, echoing a trend observed among several New York designers this season. "Fashion that stands the test of time has always been one of my hallmarks," elucidated the designer.<br /><br />The collection exuded an aura of refined elegance, encompassing a spectrum of essential garments essential to a woman's closet: impeccably tailored double-breasted suits with nipped waists, leather jackets adorned with plush shearling collars, sleek pointed pumps, and even a nod to casual chic with a luxe hoodie. Infused with touches of New York glamour, sequin-embellished cardigans and delicate lace slip dresses added a dose of allure, while voluminous fluffy overcoats in hues reminiscent of "dusty makeup shades" evoked the insouciant glamour of the 1930s.<br /><br />"When we contemplate what is truly timeless and enduring, it's quality, simplicity, and sophistication," remarked <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michael_Kors">Kors</a>. "It's about clothing that instills confidence and power, that transcends fleeting trends." With this collection, Kors reaffirms his mastery in crafting garments that resonate with the modern woman, embodying a sense of timeless allure and empowerment.<br /><br /><b>TORY BURCH</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/5.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj3t_fq_MaEAxV01RYFHY_xA1cYABARGgJ0bA&ase=2&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5-uuBhDzARIsAAa21T8_80gulm3kjsfGNcdBBqyMGYROwti4d8tT6ZBQrMs-iXp_Dh4gLtcaAgkhEALw_wcB&ei=YXPbZaPFMu6Ni-gPk8OaOA&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVuD2gmK6pscOr36xyqrruuTOED_BrnLT5AZy-RxSjnesK6m9EmRVJrbmasSN5hVFrP6cTp-pbf3BtPjYva_D4VVId_8WBe3pyCxdfW2nNjBl0QTWaek1&sig=AOD64_28xIvptFchHqsdw7OJLLww41zkHg&q&sqi=2&nis=4&adurl&ved=2ahUKEwjj-d3q_MaEAxXuxgIHHZOhBgcQ0Qx6BAgPEAE">Tory Burch</a> concluded Monday evening's affair with a captivating takeover of the <a href="https://www.nypl.org/">New York Public Library</a> on <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fifth_Avenue">Fifth Avenue</a>, transforming its ornate walkways into a shimmering silver runway. Embracing a newfound sense of creative exploration, Burch shared her vision of reinventing silhouettes and proportions, marking a bold departure from the confines of conventional branding that she has challenged over the past five years.<br /><br />The collection unveiled a captivating fusion of innovation and elegance, characterised by bonded, heat-sealed garments that exuded an architectural allure yet retained a surprising lightness and fluidity. Textural intricacy abounded, with fronds of tassels and twisting ruffles adorning delicate diaphanous mini dresses, juxtaposed against sleek hair-on-hide dipped outerwear. A sensual undertone permeated the collection, epitomised by the semi-sheer skirt adorned with a shimmering degradé motif, elegantly paired with a faux croc bodysuit and the brand's striking new 'Pierced' pump—a style adorned with sweeping abstract metal embellishments set to dominate the fashion scene in the upcoming season.<br /><br />"We aimed to elevate the everyday to the sublime," remarked <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tory_Burch">Burch</a>, encapsulating the essence of the collection's ethos. With its intriguing blend of innovation, texture, and allure, Tory Burch's latest showcase epitomises a daring exploration of creativity and style, transcending boundaries to redefine contemporary elegance.<br /><br /><b>COACH</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/6.png" width="427" /></div><br />Presented within the stately confines of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_B._Duke_House">James B. Duke House</a> on New York's <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Upper_East_Side">Upper East Side</a>—a locale steeped in the aristocratic heritage of the city—<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stuart_Vevers">Stuart Vevers</a> unveiled a collection that deftly juxtaposed <a href="http://artsmia.org/winterthur/american-classicism.html">American classicism</a> with the raw, unfiltered eclecticism of urban streets. Drawing inspiration from iconic figures such as <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_F._Kennedy_Jr.">John F. Kennedy Jr.</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carolyn_Bessette-Kennedy">Carolyn Bessette</a>, Vevers interwove elements of refined elegance with the gritty spontaneity of city life.<br /><br />Ruffled debutante dresses in lustrous taffeta and crisply tailored tuxedo blazers were artfully disheveled, evoking the aura of a night spent reveling in the city's vibrant energy. Paired with rugged, worn-in leather boots, the models traversed the grand salons of the building with an air of nonchalant defiance. Adorned with heaps of bags and accessories, including tourist charms depicting the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Statue_of_Liberty">Statue of Liberty</a> and the iconic <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Apple">Big Apple,</a> as well as <a href="https://www.amazon.com/yankees-hat/s?k=yankees+hat">Yankee caps</a>, emblematic of New York's enduring spirit.<br /><br />Elsewhere, <a href="https://www.coach.com/">Vevers</a> curated a highly coveted wardrobe tailored to the demands of urban living, featuring elongated trench coats, sumptuous shearling and tasseled leather jackets, and whimsical sweaters adorned with bows and playful duck motifs. This collection marks a triumphant return to the brand's roots in New York, where it was established in 1941, embracing the city's dynamic essence without succumbing to the allure of fashion escapism. Vevers' musings on New York love stories, inspired by the works of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nora_Ephron">Nora Ephron</a>, resonate throughout the collection, encapsulating the city's unique blend of romance and realism. With this compelling showcase, Vevers reaffirms the brand's steadfast commitment to authenticity and celebrates the indomitable spirit of New York City.<br /><br /><b>ZANKOV</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/7.png" width="427" /></div><br />"Seduction and gusto!" exclaimed <a href="https://www.zankovstudio.com/">Henry Zankov</a> as he unveiled his A/W 2024 collection at his Monday morning presentation in the vibrant Chelsea space. Surrounded by models and admirers, Zankov elaborated on the mood of his collection, emphasising the use of strong, saturated colours infused with vibrant energy, particularly for evening wear. "That's how the seduction happens," he quipped, revealing the essence of his creative vision.<br /><br />Following his remarkable achievement as the runner-up at the <a href="https://cfda.com/programs/designers/cfdavogue-fashion-fund">CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund</a> in October 2023, Zankov elevated his presentation to new heights. The streets outside the gallery, adorned with black suburbans, hinted at the anticipation surrounding the event, while inside, a team of PR professionals orchestrated the flow of guests into the light-filled atrium. Building upon his brand's signature perforated knits and intarsias, Zankov introduced a captivating array of garments that showcased a mastery of colour mixing, texture, and innovative design.<br /><br />The collection featured standout pieces such as tufted hand-worked 'pom pom' knits, a feathery shredded alpaca tomato-orange dress and scarf, and intricately crafted mouline hand-knit crew-necks, inviting tactile exploration. Notably, a red deconstructed jumper captured attention with its effortless yet artful repurposing, with the model's head emerging from an armhole while the sleeves were elegantly knotted at the hip. Scarves emerged as a focal point, ingeniously integrated into garments like a moss green cashmere coat with a built-in neckline scarf, and a chartreuse fine gauge knit with a similarly inventive design.<br /><br /><a href="https://www.zankovstudio.com/about">Henry Zankov's</a> A/W 2024 collection embodies a bold celebration of craftsmanship, colour, and innovation, marking a significant evolution in his design aesthetic while maintaining the allure of seduction and daring creativity.<br /><br /><b>ULLA JOHNSON</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/8.png" width="427" /></div><br />As guests arrived for <a href="https://ullajohnson.com/">Ulla Johnson's</a> Sunday morning show, they were greeted by a sensory oasis: the gentle touch of sandy deep pile carpeting and the enveloping embrace of soaring terracotta curtains, creating a serene atmosphere that absorbed the hum of conversation. Within this tranquil space, a striking sculpture by Mississippi-born artist <a href="https://www.andrewondrejcak.com/about">Andrew Ondrejcak</a>, in collaboration with Brooklyn-based artist <a href="https://www.abbycheney.com/">Abby Cheney</a>, commanded attention, resembling a delicate filigree ring magnified to towering proportions.<br /><br />In the show notes, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raven_Leilani">Raven Leilani</a>, acclaimed author of "<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Luster-Novel-Raven-Leilani/dp/0374194327">Luster</a>," reflected on the essence of adornment, noting that "In adornment, there is also fantasy... making something beautiful requires something of you." This sentiment resonated throughout Johnson's collection, where the meticulous craftsmanship of artisans from around the world, with whom she has cultivated years-long partnerships, took centre stage. Sequin and bead embroideries breathed life into a black dress and pencil skirt, while crochet work added an exquisite touch of artisanal flair.<br /><br /><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ulla_Johnson">Johnson's</a> signature elements of fluidity, romance, and movement permeated the collection, amplified by the introduction of vibrant violet spongy wool and moss green quilted coats adorned with golden brocade print. Tailoring, exemplified by a textured pinstripe pantsuit, and denim, showcased through a dramatically waisted jean jacket, seamlessly intertwined with Johnson's feminine aesthetic. A surprise addition to the lineup came in the form of leather pants, exuding a desirability rarely seen before.<br /><br />Ulla Johnson's A/W 2024 collection is a testament to her unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, creativity, and feminine allure, offering a harmonious fusion of artisanal detailing and contemporary elegance that captivates the senses and stirs the soul.<br /><br /><b>LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERIN</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/9.png" width="427" /></div><br />In the lead-up to his inaugural show at New York Fashion Week, <a href="https://ludovicdesaintsernin.com/">Ludovic de Saint Sernin</a> tantalised fashion aficionados with hints of a collaboration with the <a href="https://www.mapplethorpe.org/">Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation</a>. Drawing inspiration from the sensually charged flower photographs of the iconic American photographer, de Saint Sernin was intrigued by Mapplethorpe's provocative assertion that "beauty and the devil are the same thing." This juxtaposition served as the driving force behind the collection, as delicate stamens and blooms from Mapplethorpe's oeuvre graced sheer handkerchief tops and skirts, revealing glimpses of the body beneath, alongside slinky chainmail dresses that hugged the contours of the form.<br /><br />Injecting a hint of provocative allure inspired by Mapplethorpe's portraiture and his patronage of queer BDSM establishments like <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineshaft_(gay_club)">The Mineshaft</a>, the collection featured lace-up leather underwear and trousers, the latter provocatively sliced down the back to expose the models' derrieres—an homage to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_McQueen">Alexander McQueen's</a> iconic <a href="https://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/bumster-skirt-highland-rape/">bumster trouser</a>. Eyelet-studded pieces, a signature of de Saint Sernin's design aesthetic, adorned harness-style tops, underwear, and dresses that wrapped and twisted around the body, evoking the sensation of stacked leather belts.<br /><br />As the models made their final strut down the runway, all eyes turned to <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/ludovic-de-saint-sernin-1">Ludovic de Saint Sernin</a> himself, who took a spin amidst the twinkling lights of the cityscape beyond. With an air of confidence and belonging, he left fashion enthusiasts wondering whether he would become a permanent fixture on the New York fashion scene. Only time will tell.<br /><br /><b>AREA</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/10.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://area.nyc/">Area's</a> latest collection presented a surreal and whimsical journey, with designer <a href="https://www.instagram.com/piotrekpanszczyk/?hl=en">Piotrek Panszczyk</a> adorning gowns with hundreds of 'googly eyes'—those iconic spinning eyeballs reminiscent of greeting cards and craft projects. Throughout the collection, these playful eyes appeared in various sizes and forms, embellishing skirts and dresses in leather and shiny silver studs, and even transforming a Dalmatian-style print that adorned monastic hooded gowns and oversized shirting.<br /><br />Drawing inspiration from both the surrealist movement of the 1920s and 1930s and the vibrant energy of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pop_art">Pop Art</a>, Panszczyk infused the collection with colourful and cartoonish elements. This was evident in the vibrant floral motifs, embellished with Area's signature crystal adornments, which added a touch of whimsy to the garments. Crystals, synonymous with the brand, were magnified in size, creating oversized necklaces and tasselled skirts that resonated with a sense of opulence and luxury.<br /><br />While some of the more extravagant pieces may be reserved for red carpets and music videos, the collection also featured crystal-studded jeans and sleek Area-branded tank tops, offering a wider appeal to fashion enthusiasts. With the exciting announcement of a partnership with Amazon's luxury fashion division to sell its collections, Area is poised to reach an even broader audience, blending avant-garde design with accessibility and innovation.<br /><br /><b>KHAITE</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/11.png" width="427" /></div><br />On a postcard, <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/catherine-holstein">Catherine Holstein's</a> succinct personal statement greeted guests as they settled in for Sunday evening's show at <a href="https://www.chelseapiers.com/">Chelsea Piers</a>, delving into themes of generational legacy and the ebb and flow of memory that have preoccupied the designer. Despite the intimate welcome, the show's set contrasted sharply—a cavernous black interior stretching into darkness with an oil-slick floor roped off for effect.<br /><br />With expectations high for exceptional gloss, Holstein delivered on all fronts, thanks to a powerhouse team responsible for lighting, set design (led by her husband, architect <a href="https://www.franzenarchitects.com/">Griffen Franzen</a>), music, styling, and overall show mastery. As for the clothes, sharpness prevailed with supple leather jackets boasting right-angle shoulders, cropped boxy military peacoats, and impeccably tailored tuxedo jackets. Even fox-fur chubby coats maintained perpendicular proportions and defined lapels.<br /><br />However, <a href="https://khaite.com/">Holstein</a> also explored lightness, fluidity, and volume, evident in duchess satin paper bag waists, a luxurious leather cocoon coat, and gravity-defying silk gazar tops and skirts that seemed to softly ripple away from the body. Evening looks exuded a disheveled insouciance, embodied in crinkled silk slips and gowns with sleeves crafted from swathes of featherweight silk chiffon. With this collection, Holstein once again showcases her mastery of juxtaposing sharpness with levity, creating garments that resonate with both strength and elegance.<br /><br /><b>ECKHAUS LATTA</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/12.png" width="427" /></div><br />In lieu of traditional collection notes, <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/mike-eckhaus-zoe-latta">Mike Eckhaus</a> and <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/mike-eckhaus-zoe-latta">Zoe Latta</a> provided a more abstract evocation of the season's mood, describing it as "remembering America as though you're standing on an orange milk crate hearing it crack under the weight of you thinking: 'what will happen next?'" Set against the breathtaking backdrop of floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the New York City skyline, accompanied by a live soundtrack featuring renditions of iconic songs by <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lou_Reed">Lou Reed</a>, <a href="https://www.lanadelrey.com/">Lana Del Rey</a>, and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frank_Sinatra">Frank Sinatra's</a> "New York, New York" by Los Angeles-based musician <a href="https://www.instagram.com/lorenkramar/?hl=en">Loren Kramar</a>, the collection pondered the essence of American dressing and the role of American designers in today's landscape.<br /><br />Amid discussions during fashion week about the challenges faced by young designers showing on the New York schedule, the duo embraced a shift towards minimalism, albeit within the bounds of their signature undone aesthetic. They honed in on the <a href="https://eckhauslatta.com/">Eckhaus Latta</a> codes with newfound clarity, presenting a collection that felt both fresh and familiar. Standout pieces included surprisingly sharp shearling overcoats juxtaposed with featherweight sheer jersey tops, as well as shaggy ribbed knits with undeniable real-world appeal.<br /><br />A mood of disheveled glamour permeated the collection, evoking the melancholy resonance of its doomed America soundtrack. Spaghetti-strapped silk slip dresses were artfully sliced into streamers at the hem, while iridescent fabrics were gently ruched and layered over mini dresses for the closing looks, exuding an air of ethereal allure. Through this introspective exploration of American identity and design, Eckhaus and Latta continue to redefine contemporary fashion with their distinct vision and unwavering creativity.<br /><br /><b>PROENZA SCHOULER</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/13.png" width="427" /></div><br />This season, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/jackmccollough/?hl=en">Jack McCollough</a> and <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/jack-mccollough-lazaro-hernandez">Lazaro Hernandez</a> presented a stripped-back outing for <a href="https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjzvfrVgceEAxX4gIMHHXMaAjgYABA1GgJlZg&ase=2&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5-uuBhDzARIsAAa21T9qx7l4yDf5o1rwVt8ZXU4L0oOghhVxWfNotN5HC4FR8e31smUk0QYaAg7_EALw_wcB&ei=dHjbZeHlEMWF9u8P4eSJyA4&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVuD2QGi_yA2-S7ubT-buSC4XfgzAllv-jxJOrFf3HiPqzkQgU_fp7z1D0XJsK2dedGAnTG9kEew_saNXfbavD_4aDSJWqtlenN_S0Z4f-9khLErctDyw&sig=AOD64_0j8btPU1x_yvgLk8YaN0qrL7-1JA&q&sqi=2&nis=4&adurl&ved=2ahUKEwjh7_DVgceEAxXFgv0HHWFyAukQ0Qx6BAgOEAE">Proenza Schouler</a>, a deliberate shift in mood decided the evening before the show. The designers opted to shelve their more embellished and embroidered garments in favor of a more refined aesthetic, reflecting their ongoing commitment to eschew ephemeral trends in favor of a rigorous exploration of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proenza_Schouler">Proenza Schouler</a> woman's identity—a journey of evolution rather than revolution.<br /><br />The collection showcased sharply cut tailoring and enveloping overcoats reminiscent of 1990s minimalism, alongside diaphanous dresses that sensually draped around the body, echoing silhouettes from previous seasons. Blanket-like knits, artfully sliced into frayed cut-outs, provided a striking conclusion to the show, evoking a sense of comfort and soulfulness.<br /><br />Speaking backstage, Hernandez described the collection as being about "beauty and enveloping layers, comfort and soulfulness," emphasising the importance of softness, luxury, and sensuality in the garments. With this collection, McCollough and Hernandez reaffirmed their status as one of New York Fashion Week's most consistent talents, drawing the attention of traveling editors and cementing their position as a leading force in the industry.<br /><br />"We want to make clothes that don't feel throwaway, that you're going to own for a long time," McCollough concluded, reflecting their belief in creating enduring pieces that resonate with the modern consumer's desire for longevity and quality in their wardrobe choices.<br /><br /><b>TOMMY HILFIGER</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/14.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://tommyhilfiger.com/">Tommy Hilfiger's</a> choice of <a href="https://grandcentralterminal.com/shop/oyster-bar-restaurant/">Grand Central Station's Oyster Bar</a> for his aptly named 'New York Moment' show was undoubtedly poignant and fitting. The station's famed cream marble atrium provided a spectacular backdrop, where onlookers eagerly awaited the arrival of their favorite <a href="https://www.tiktok.com/">TikTok</a> celebrities and notable personalities like <a href="https://www.tiktok.com/@sofiarichiegrainge?lang=en">Sofia Richie Grainge</a>, <a href="https://www.tiktok.com/discover/Damson-Idris?lang=en">Damson Idris</a>, <a href="https://www.tiktok.com/@sonamkapur">Sonam Kapoor</a>, <a href="https://www.tiktok.com/discover/lee-junho-official?lang=en">Junho Lee</a>, and <a href="https://www.tiktok.com/@iamjonbatiste">Jon Batiste</a>, whose finale performance electrified the entire room.<br /><br />Inside, 'The Tommy,' a secret saloon bar serving martinis and champagne, hosted an unexpectedly intimate gathering, where editors congregated around cocktail tables while Questlove curated a soundtrack inspired by New York's diverse boroughs. Reflecting <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tommy_Hilfiger">Hilfiger's</a> longstanding connection to youth culture and music, the event exuded a slouchy, youthful energy synonymous with the brand's identity.<br /><br />The collection itself celebrated the essence of 'classic American cool,' revisiting essentials of the American wardrobe with a fresh and relevant perspective. From black and white rugby shirts with generously proportioned sleeves to roomy chinos and effortless layering of shirting under long-line cardigans and trench coats, the garments exuded an air of effortlessness and relatability. A pleated skirt paired with block-heeled boots epitomised a fashion-forward silhouette with real-world appeal, while standout pieces like the shearling motorcycle jacket and oversised tweedy puffa undoubtedly sparked interest and desire among attendees.<br /><br />Moreover, the show marked a departure from the see-now, buy-now approach, aligning with the traditional fashion week schedule to accommodate the elevated clothing production standards. With an emphasis on Italian-sourced fabrics and intricate production processes, this adjustment reflects Hilfiger's commitment to quality and craftsmanship, ensuring that each piece meets the brand's exacting standards before reaching the market.<br /><br /><b>WILLY CHAVARRIA</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/15.png" width="427" /></div><br /><a href="https://willychavarria.com/">Willy Chavarria's</a> shows possess an inexplicable magic, establishing him as one of the most captivating talents at New York Fashion Week. His journey, including design roles at American mega brands like Ralph Lauren before launching his eponymous label, reflects a deliberate and strategic approach. This method allowed him to cultivate <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willy_Chavarria">Willy Chavarria</a> the brand when he felt confident in his vision and design codes, which are deeply rooted in the multiplicity of New York street culture, where he now resides, and his Mexican-American upbringing in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fresno,_California">Fresno, California</a>.<br /><br />His perseverance and dedication have paid off, evident in his recognition as the 2023 <a href="https://cfda.com/news/catching-up-with-2023-american-menswear-designer-of-the-year-willy-chavarria">Menswear Designer of the Year</a> at the CFDA awards and his growing presence on the red carpet, with notable admirers like <a href="https://www.instagram.com/billieeilish/">Billie Eilish</a>. Furthermore, his collection will soon be stocked in prestigious retailers like <a href="https://www.saksfifthavenue.com/Barneys-at-Saks/shop/_/N-52km5p/Ne-6lvnb5?site_refer=barneys">Barney’s</a> and <a href="https://www.saksfifthavenue.com/Barneys-at-Saks/shop/_/N-52km5p/Ne-6lvnb5?site_refer=barneys">Saks</a>. The ambiance of his shows is often characterised by a buzzy and celebratory atmosphere, complemented by rows of church candles and religious ephemera that serve as recurring motifs in his work.<br /><br />Chavarria's signature voluminous silhouette, reminiscent of both baggy streetwear and the opulence of traditional couture, remains a focal point. However, he infuses freshness into his designs through new fabrications, such as houndstooth wool featured in leaner trousers and elongated overcoats. A mood of refinement permeates the collection, with sweaters elegantly draped around the neck and brilliant tuxedo-style tailoring, featuring dramatically pitched lapels, adding a sense of sophistication and edge. Through his distinct aesthetic and unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, Willy Chavarria continues to captivate audiences and redefine contemporary menswear.<br /><br /><b>HELMUT LANG</b></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://www.forcmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/16.png" width="427" /></div><br />"Protection versus projection," remarked <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/peter-do-1">Peter Do</a> as he unveiled his sophomore collection for <a href="https://www.helmutlang.com/">Helmut Lang</a>, marking the opening of New York Fashion Week. "The way we protect ourselves is the way we define: armour or adornment?" This message resonated throughout the collection, echoed in the printed notes, which bore the same all-caps logotype as Lang's own campaigns.<br /><br />The garments themselves spoke to this dichotomy, with shirts and trousers crafted from bubble wrap, symbolising both protection and sensuality as they exposed the inner workings of the garment beneath. Other pieces, such as knits that enveloped the face and body, offered protection against the elements. A crescent-shaped bag, reminiscent of an airplane pillow, suggested comfort and security, while technical vests recalled the "bulletproof" vests from Lang's archival collections.<br /><br />The collection's inspiration stemmed from a deep observation of New York's dress codes, reflecting the city's demands for both protection and self-expression through clothing. However, while the collection astutely mined hallmarks of the Helmut Lang archive, it sometimes felt like it lacked the unique sensuality and subversion that defined the brand's seminal 1990s collections. This balance is more finely struck by <a href="https://peterdo.net/">Do</a> in his eponymous brand's collections, which he will showcase later this month in Paris on February 27th.<br /><br />Through this exploration of protection and adornment, Peter Do's collection for Helmut Lang offers a thought-provoking reflection on the complexities of modern dressing and the interplay between functionality and expression.</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-26238832380942209702024-02-27T10:56:00.003+00:002024-02-27T10:56:53.209+00:00Vogue World Is Heading To Paris To Kick Off Haute Couture WeekWhen Vogue World launched in 2022, it unspooled in downtown New York City as a street-fair-slash-fashion-show with all the makings of a legendary night. Models graced an open-air runway, Lil Nas X performed while flanked by the Hadid sisters, and hot pastrami sandwiches were served courtesy of Michael Kors and Katz’s Deli. When the event hopped the pond for Vogue World: London in 2023, an opening night in the West End was reimagined at the historic Theatre Royal Drury Lane: Annie Lennox serenaded the crowd with “Sweet Dreams (Are Made of This),” FKA Twigs sang alongside Rembert dancers, and The Supers – Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, and Christy Turlington – took a surprise walk down the runway. The star-studded event featured a stirring red carpet (remember Sienna Miller in that bump-baring Schiaparelli?) and raised £2 million for various British arts organisations. Let’s do it again, shall we?<br /><br />This year, the fashion and revelry continues, with Vogue World coming to life in Paris on the famed Place Vendôme, surrounded by haute couture ateliers at the centre of the First Arrondissement. Mark your calendar – the festivities are set for Sunday 23 June.<div><br /></div><div>"I am delighted that Vogue World has found its third home here in Paris,” Anna Wintour, chief content officer, Condé Nast, and global editorial director, Vogue, announced today from the Ritz Paris. “If Vogue World: New York was a street fair, and Vogue World: London was a glamorous night at the theatre – supporting arts and cultural organisations in London – Paris will be a kind of opening ceremony; one that celebrates 100 years of fashion and sport, as well as this extraordinary city.” Wintour was joined by an illustrious group: Bruno Pavlovsky, executive president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode; designers Simon Porte Jacquemus, Olivier Rousteing, Marine Serre, and Pharrell Williams; and a number of French Olympians, including fencer Enzo Lefort.<br /><br />Williams, who relocated to Paris to take the helm at Louis Vuitton Menswear, followed Wintour’s remarks, noting his anticipation for Vogue’s arrival in the City of Light. “Vogue World: Paris will spotlight the best of what is truly French style; both what we see on our runways, and what appears on our avenues and boulevards.” Pharrell added, “It’s that inclusive spirit that has long made this city a haven for artists, and what continues to make Parisian fashion so extraordinary.”<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="427" src="https://media.vogue.co.uk/photos/65ddb703c332f55439ddd74e/master/w_1600%2Cc_limit/EC_VOGUEWORLD-ACI-00.jpg" width="640" /></div><br />Vogue World: Paris is being imagined in collaboration with youth athletic academies from throughout France, pairing each Olympic sport – cycling, gymnastics, tennis, taekwondo, fencing, and break dancing, among others – with a theme of French fashion for every decade since 1924, when Paris last hosted the Olympic games. The event will showcase French designers, current and past, as well as houses that historically present their collections in Paris. The evening will be punctuated by surprise live performances.<br /><br />Among a global team of luminaries tapped to realise the production are Carine Roitfeld and Ib Kamara spearheading fashion alongside Palais Galliera curator Alexandre Samson; Dame Pat McGrath returning to lead makeup design; and Parris Goebel, the world-renowned dancer and choreographer behind Rihanna’s Super Bowl LVII halftime show, overseeing artistic direction and choreography. The livestream, broadcast globally via Vogue, will be directed for the third time by Sam Wrench, best known for his work on Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour film.<br /><br />Vogue is committed to making a meaningful impact by donating a portion of the net proceeds from ticket sales to the Paris 2024 charitable tickets programme in association with Secours Populaire, a humanitarian organisation dedicated to granting individuals in low-income households the unique opportunity to attend the Olympic and Paralympic Games. The organisation also facilitates access to essential equipment for young, aspiring athletes across France.<br /><br />A limited number of tickets are available. Email paris@vogueworld.com for information about purchasing tickets. Additionally, there are reserved seats for purchase by Vogue Club members. You can watch Vogue World 2024 on Vogue’s exclusive livestream from Paris at 2pm EST / 8pm CET on June 23.</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-40226796730466951462024-02-21T15:12:00.002+00:002024-02-21T15:12:42.521+00:00Inside Audrey Hepburn’s ParisThere are few fashion partnerships more legendary than that of Audrey Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy — their deep friendship and mutual vision helped create Hepburn’s iconic style.<br /><br />Their story weaves through the new book “Audrey Hepburn in Paris,” coauthored by Hepburn’s youngest son Luca Dotti and Meghan Friedlander, the creator of the Rare Audrey Hepburn blog, which chronicles the legendary actress’ style. “It’s almost like a love letter between the two of them,” says Friedlander of the 210-page tome.<br /><br />Much of the story of Hepburn and Givenchy unfolded with Paris as the stage. The book follows Hepburn’s experiences in the city filming, doing fashion shoots, and attending Paris Fashion Week shows. She formed friendships with the groundbreaking creatives of the time, including Richard Avedon, Coco Chanel, Cary Grant and Diana Vreeland.<br /><br />“It’s surprising but I think the most I got out of this book is the sense of joy,” says Dotti. “Because it’s from a time where people really knew each other, they were friends at work and off. They were creating things together, and they were the best, this combination of talents. And that’s what my mother always said, ‘Most of all, I was lucky to work with all these marvelous people.’”<br /><br />Dotti discovered new sides to his mother through stories of her dancing until dawn at parties including the Rothchilds’ legendary Surrealist ball, as well as how she always traveled with a trunk with personal photos and objects to make her favorite room at the Hotel Raphael feel like home.<br /><br />Friedlander did a deep dive into all things Audrey, unearthing contemporaneous sources from as far flung as Japan and Iceland, and saw her role more as a tour guide through Hepburn’s Paris. She uncovered a diary entry from Colette recounting the first time Hepburn visited her in Palais-Royal, after the famous writer spotted her in a hotel and wanted her to star in the adaptation of her novel “Gigi.”<br /><br />The young actress first turned down the role out of insecurity about her inexperience, then finally accepted the star-making turn in 1951. “But I never expected to see her, armed with as much patience as if she were waiting expressly for me, on the old stairway of my Palais-Royal apartment,” Colette wrote of their first encounter.<br /><br />The book is dotted with these first-person anecdotes and Hepburn’s own voice to infuse it with intimacy. Friedlander also used WWD reports from 1985’s Oscars de la Mode ceremony, as well as coverage from a Givenchy fashion show.<br /><br />For Dotti, the book is also the culmination of a personal journey. The first book, “Audrey in Rome,” stemmed from an exhibit catalogue and was published in Italy before it was picked up internationally. The second, “Audrey at Home,” was a recipe and recollections scrapbook-style tome. Both were on his comfortable home turf.<div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="360" src="https://wwd.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/page-141_-Photo-by-Douglas-Kirkland-Copyright-Kirkland-Family-Trust-2023.jpeg?w=1000&h=563&crop=1" width="640" /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>When the idea for a Paris book came along, Dotti “was a little bit reluctant,” he says. “I sensed — erroneously — that the vision of my mother was framed in this Little Black Dress stereotype,” he says, adding that he grew up with no concept of just how famous she really was.</div><div><br />Young Dotti also had an uneasy relationship with Givenchy, in part because of the late designer’s strong bond with his mother. Following Hepburn’s death, they disagreed about how to approach an exhibit before Givenchy wrote him a letter explaining what Hepburn meant to so many people. From there they started to build their own friendship. “The moment we both opened up, it created this connection.”<br /><br />Givenchy opened his last personally curated retrospective with a copy of his favorite recipe from Hepburn. “It’s a strong message, in that it tells me there was not only the fashion, but the friendship. It’s also a translation of the book in the sense that as much as my mom would go to Paris to be in Givenchy’s quarters, when he took a break he went to my mother’s home. And that is lovely.”<br /><br />Dotti notes that for all the time she spent in Paris, Hepburn never had property in the French capital. “Paris was her playground,” he says. Italy and Switzerland were where she put down roots, and where she did not play the role of superstar.<br /><br />The book recounts stories of Hepburn in Paris dancing until 4 a.m. “We’re seeing a side of Audrey that we don’t normally get to see. Usually she’s so poised and elegant and chic, and really there was a fun side to Audrey, she had a great sense of humor and we see more of that,” adds Friedlander.<br /><br />Pages are dedicated to the costumes for Hepburn’s Paris films, including “Sabrina,” “Funny Face” and “Charade,” among others, as well as behind-the-scenes accounts of some of her most famous fashion shoots and stories of her movie premieres. Friedlander unearthed accounts of the legendary “The Longest Day” premiere, which featured Edith Piaf singing from the first floor of the Eiffel Tower as fireworks lit up the background. Hepburn wore a pink Givenchy gown for the occasion.<br /><br />The book also shares rare or never-before-seen photos, including a Douglas Kirkland shot that had been lost for decades. Originally a promotional photo for the 1965 film “How to Steal a Million,” Hepburn and Givenchy disagreed on the lace eye mask that covered her heavy silver sequin eye makeup. Hepburn wanted mystery; Givenchy thought it was too much of a costume. The photo was scrapped and long forgotten until Friedlander happened to win it in an auction lot, not knowing its provenance. It ended up on the book’s cover.<br /><br />“It’s like the photo had a life of its own. It said, ‘I want to be shown again.’ And for the book cover it’s fantastic because it is fun, but yet it’s mysterious — it’s Paris,” says Dotti. “You are in Paris with my mother,” he adds. “It’s a guidebook to a time, a place and fashion.”<div><div><img src="https://static.adsafeprotected.com/skeleton.gif?adunitid=bhjriv&adnum=1045441" /><br /></div></div></div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-21289322619639484292024-02-20T13:16:00.005+00:002024-02-20T13:30:43.663+00:00Ira von Fürstenberg, Death Of A PrincessAccording to British writer Nick Foulkes, Ira von Fürstenberg “was big in her day and her ways, as somebody like the Kardashians are today.” A princess by birth and model, actress and designer by choice, von Fürstenberg died on Monday aged 83. Her full name read Virginia Carolina Theresa Pancrazia Galdina zu Fürstenberg.<div><br />Fascinated by her aristocratic heritage, colorful life and influence in the fashion and art worlds, Foulkes in 2019 penned the book “Ira: The Life and Times of a Princess” on her life growing up in Venice, her fairytale wedding in Venice to Prince Alfonso of Hohenlohe at 15 years old, her glamorous travels and fashion magazine shoots, and her glitzy Place Vendôme apartment post-divorce.<br /><br />“The awareness about her in a world that was pre-Internet was quite astonishing. The volume of newspaper cuttings I went through was quite extraordinary,” Foulkes quoted at the time.<br /><br />She was the daughter of Clara Agnelli, who was the sister of Fiat heir Gianni Agnelli. Von Fürstenberg’s father, Prince Tassilo von Fürstenberg, was the son of a Hungarian countess and a prince of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and her maternal grandmother was Princess Virginia San Faustino, an American.<br /><br />When her marriage to Prince Alfonso of Hohenlohe, the jetsetting playboy who turned the sleepy fishing village of Marbella into a glamorous resort in the 1950s, was over – creating a major scandal at the time as she was also accused of adultery – von Fürstenberg married the Brazilian playboy-industrialist Francisco Matarazzo “Baby” Pignatari, 23 years her senior, in Reno, Nevada in 1961, but that ended in a divorce as well – in Las Vegas after three years.<br /><br />In his biography, Foulkes recounted her struggles with motherhood and marriage and the tragedy in 2006 of losing her son Christoph in a prison in Bangkok, aged 50, accused of having counterfeited a visa to enter the country to save time. Her other son, Hubertus, became a ski Olympian for Mexico.<br /><br />“She’s got this rebellious streak and was a very independent woman at a time where it was still a very masculine world. She took a lot of decisions that were considered brave in those days,” writes Foulkes.<br /></div><div><br /></div><img height="360" src="https://wwd.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/FA00024803_00195_Enhanced.jpg?crop=0px%2C196px%2C7441px%2C4164px&resize=1000%2C563" width="640" /><br /><br /><div>She defied conventions as an adolescent model for Emilio Pucci, occasionally walking the runways and posing for Helmut Newton and Cecil Beaton. “Ira was a great family friend and knew my father since she was 14 years old,” said Emilio’s daughter Laudomia Pucci.<br /><br />Von Fürstenberg was a couture client, Diana Vreeland’s darling, and championed Karl Lagerfeld during the early stages in his career. She became a P.R. for Valentino and was rumored to become Prince Rainier of Monaco’s second wife after the death of Grace Kelly.<br /><br />“I’ve known Ira forever, we even worked together on my first perfume,” said Valentino Garavani. “Beautiful and always smiling, Ira possessed an unwavering passion for everything she did set her mind to. Whether it was her work, her hobbies, or her personal pursuits, she approached each endeavor with wholehearted enthusiasm and dedication.”<br /><br />She pursued an acting career under the aegis of the famous producer Dino di Laurentiis, racking up around 30 movies in the late 1960s and ‘70 and over the years, she collected art by Roy Lichtenstein, Jean Dubuffet, Max Ernst, Josef Albers and Yves Klein.<br /><br />Traveling around the world, spending her life between Paris, Biarritz and London, after abandoning acting, she started designing home décor objects, many of them combined with gems and semiprecious stones. She made more than 800 one-of-a-kind pieces, each signed and numbered — vases, boxes, Indian jeweled handmirrors, picture frames, bookends, animal figurines and trays, for example, which made it into the New York’s Chinese Porcelain Company and the Thyssen Museum.<br /><br />She said she began designing when she couldn’t find a gift she liked for her friends Anne and Kirk Douglas, so she decided to make one. Among her several charity initiatives, she was a patron of the Children of Africa Foundation.</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-74315276562651992552024-02-20T07:27:00.002+00:002024-02-27T10:57:16.350+00:00Tiffany & Co.’s Fashion And Film Party At Annabel’sShe masterminded the champagne-fuelled bacchanal that has embedded itself into the very fabric of TikTok since Saltburn dropped on Amazon over Christmas, so who better to co-host a party than Emerald Fennell? As well as the BAFTA-nominated director, British Vogue’s head of editorial content Chioma Nnadi invited supermodel-turned-West End star Cara Delevingne and actors Ayo Edebiri and Emily Blunt to join her in throwing Vogue and Tiffany & Co.’s annual Fashion & Film party.<br /><br />Granted, there were fewer deer antlers and far less murderous plotting at Annabel’s than there was in the cult film – more like Tiffany & Co. diamonds and powder-room selfies – but there may well have been an impromptu rendition of “Murder on the Dancefloor” at some point, given that Noughties pop queen Sophie Ellis-Bextor was among the guests to make her way directly from the BAFTAs red carpet to the private members’ club on the Sunday night of London Fashion Week.<br /><br />The brief for Fennell’s BAFTA night look was “elegant and elevated, yet not too serious”, her stylist Rose Forde told Vogue. The duo ultimately turned to Giorgio Armani, and landed on a dramatic black form-fitting gown with long sleeves and a seductive neckline embellished with 3D red roses (a trend her Saltburn star Rosamund Pike has also been taking note of this season). “The look was inspired by the autumn/winter 2023 runway, but the sexy cut, 3D roses and strong shoulder and train really make the dress Emerald’s own,” said Forde. For the Fashion & Film party she swapped it for another slinky Giorgio Armani look: black velvet tailoring over a deep red waistcoat with a chunky gold necklace by Tiffany & Co.<div><br />For The Bear darling Ayo Edebiri, BAFTA night was all about Bottega. The Rising Star nominee followed up her Old Hollywood peach gown for the red carpet with a “full 180” in a white shirt and jeans – also the work of Matthieu Blazy, but a very different mood. “Genius vibes, sorry!” is how Ayo sums up the designer’s work. “It’s hard not to feel cool in their clothes.” Tiffany & Co. jewellery provided the finishing touch.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://media.vogue.co.uk/photos/65d279a7addc74fa53a4285a/2:3/w_2560%2Cc_limit/GettyImages-2013757846.jpg" width="427" /></div><div><br /></div><div>Blunt, a BAFTA regular who was herself nominated for the Rising Star prize for her breakthrough performance in The Devil Wears Prada back in 2007, arrived on the red carpet in shimmering Elie Saab – and watched as her movie Oppenheimer took home several prizes, including Best Film and Leading Actor for her on-screen husband, Cillian Murphy. To hit Annabel’s with her co-hosts, she swapped all that glitz for a more muted alternative: a black fishtail skirt and matching cropped jacket over a white bralette with floral detail, plus jewellery by Tiffany & Co.</div><div><br />For British model Delevingne, meanwhile, presiding over the dancefloor at Annabel’s represented something of a homecoming – she has a palatial LA base, but will shortly star in The Playhouse Theatre’s lauded revival of Cabaret in the West End. In lieu of Sally Bowles’s Bauhaus prints and faux mink coats, for the Fashion & Film party, she chose a sequined midi-dress with a dramatic neckline and Tiffany & Co. jewellery.<br /><br />Speaking of homecomings, the Fashion & Film party is Nnadi’s first as British Vogue’s head of editorial content, after the London girl returned from the US Vogue office in New York following her historic appointment. “It all feels quite auspicious” she said, given that the party coincides with London Fashion Week, which this year celebrates its 40th anniversary. “I’m especially excited and honoured to be joined by such a talented line-up of co-hosts,” she added. “I’m a huge fan of all of them.” As for her own look? Nnadi, a vintage obsessive whose fantasy celebrity wardrobe would be “a combination of Fela Kuti and Mrs Prada’s”, wore Tiffany & Co.’s classic Elsa Peretti Bone cuffs in gold, and opted to represent one of LFW’s most fabulous females, Vivienne Westwood, via an altogether appropriate (and one of a kind) archive Union Jack gown.</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-50963803289632458222024-02-15T17:19:00.001+00:002024-02-15T17:19:26.586+00:00And The 2024 Met Gala Dress Code Is…To understand the 2024 Met Gala dress code – announced today as “The Garden of Time” – requires, first, an understanding of this year’s exhibition concept.<br /><br />On Monday 6 May, Met Gala co-chairs Bad Bunny, Chris Hemsworth, Jennifer Lopez, Zendaya and Vogue’s Anna Wintour will welcome guests to the museum for an exhibition entitled “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion”.<br /><br />The forthcoming show has nothing to do with the Brothers Grimm or Disney, but is rather a celebration of clothing and fashion so fragile that it can’t ever be worn again – and are therefore sleeping beauties in the scrupulously maintained archives of The Costume Institute. (In this analogy, we can consider the Wendy Yu curator in charge of The Costume Institute, Andrew Bolton, the Prince for rousing these fashions for a show.)<br /><br />Per the Metropolitan Museum of Art, we can expect to see a range of fashion on display, dating back as far as a 17th-century Elizabethan-era English bodice, that embodies the beauty of the natural world – its fragility and its inevitable decay. More modern, less delicate pieces imbued with the same spirit as the spotlit fashions will be showcased alongside them, and broken up into three sub-themes: Land, Sea and Sky.<br /><br />The second part of understanding this year’s dress code of “The Garden of Time”, involves examining its inspiration: a short story of the same title written by JG Ballard in 1962. (The author is perhaps best known for his novel The Empire of the Sun, which was adapted into a film by Steven Spielberg.)<br /><br />The story tells of a Count Axel and his wife, the Countess, in their utopia of leisure, art and beauty. They live in a villa with a terrace that overlooks a garden of crystalline flowers with translucent leaves, gleaming glass-like stems and crystals at the heart of every bloom. Though, as in all of Ballard’s work (“Ballardian”, per contemporary dictionaries, has come to represent “dystopian modernity, bleak artificial landscapes, and the psychological effects of technological, social, or environmental developments”), there is a dystopian element to their paradise; holding onto it is like trying to keep every grain of a fistful of sand intact in your palm.<br /><br />Beyond the walls of Count Axel’s villa, an encroaching and chaotic mob draws nearer with every hour. To restore tranquility, the Count must pluck a time-reversing flower from his garden until there are none left. The story ends with the unthinking mob descending on the villa, by now a derelict property with a neglected garden, in which a statue of the Count and his Countess stand entangled in thorny belladonna plants.<br /><br />But to borrow from TikTok, a sponsor of the gala: “Okay, but what are we wearing?” Let’s break down the many ways to interpret the theme. Boiled down, the dress code, as well as the exhibition, is about fleeting beauty. The most obvious interpretation would be to embrace the “garden” part of “The Garden of Time”. Think melancholic florals (as moody florals aren’t moody enough).<br /><br />One piece we know is part of the exhibition is a black evening coat by Charles Frederick Worth from 1889, cut from a jacquard textile woven with parrot tulips that, per the Met, have an “aggressive dynamic quality” to them.<div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://media.vogue.co.uk/photos/65ce298af87068d48613c7e8/2:3/w_2560%2Cc_limit/COLLAGE_met.png" width="427" /></div><div><br /></div>Something from Dries Van Noten’s Spring 2014 collection, which features parrot tulip embroideries seemingly plucked from Worth’s cape, would be a smart choice. Likewise something from his Spring 2017 show, which saw models walk down a runway flanked by exquisite flowers frozen in blocks of ice by avant-garde floral artist Azuma Makoto – the crystalline floral reference would be a lovely wink to Ballard.<br /><br />For those keen to embrace the floral element of the theme, there were a handful of unapologetically floral fashions seen at last month’s couture collections. Consider a look from Simone Rocha’s couture debut via Jean Paul Gaultier, where models walked with silver-dipped roses in their hands – as if Rocha knew this theme was coming. Or look 36 from Giambattista Valli would work well, with its melodramatic impressionistic sequined florals.<br /><br />Beyond the most recent season, there’s Karl Lagerfeld’s flower-embellished pieces from Chanel’s Spring 2015 Couture collection, which was set in a garden that mechanically bloomed – very Ballardian. We’d even encourage looks with real-life flowers, rotting preferably. Essentially, guests should set out to look like a walking memento mori while ascending the Met steps.<br /><br />One could look to the non-floral clues in Ballard’s text, too. Though destruction looms, the Countess plays Mozart and Bach on her harpsichord, which would make the musical note look from Valentino Spring 2014 incredibly fitting. And for those who want to follow the text faithfully, Count Axel is described as wearing black velvet and a silk cravat.<br /><br />Time – the reversal of it and our powerlessness over it – is another theme to explore. Someone could wear Cartier’s Salvador Dalí-inspired Crash timepiece on their wrist. Or, for a camp take (and a wink to a previous Met Gala theme), Moschino’s grandfather clock gown from autumn/winter 2022.<div><br />Alternatively, gala-goers could put Ballard’s tale aside and dive into the exhibition itself, which celebrates nature in fashion. We know that Loewe’s blurry floral dresses from autumn/winter 2023 are included in the exhibition – any one of those would be lovely. We also know that there are several Alexander McQueen looks in the show, as he was a master of cabinet-of-curiosity-couture. His gown from spring/summer 2001, constructed almost entirely from razor clam shells the designer collected from the beaches of Norfolk, is featured; as is Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen’s monarch butterfly winged minidress. This tells us to go beyond blooms – look at the less obvious incarnations of flora and fauna found in fashion. If we consider the Land, Sea and Sky subthemes, we might put forth fashion inspired by the grain of wood (perhaps a lovely silk moiré?), the pattern of fish scales, or the iridescence of a dragonfly’s wing. Nature gives us so much more than flowers to fawn over.<br /><br />Finally, there’s the broader concept of the exhibition itself: bygone fashion that deserves attention. Natalie Portman has already worn a recreation of Dior’s Junon gown (which features in the exhibition), so perhaps someone attending with Dior will turn up in Dior’s Venus gown from 1949 (also in “Sleeping Beauties”).<br /><br />To select an outstanding archival piece, whether a recreation or not, would acknowledge the spirit of an exhibition centred on the passage of time. But while most exhibitions use chronological time as a way to parse objects up into digestible progressions, “Sleeping Beauties” forces the viewer to jump ahead. One day, everything in the exhibition will be too fragile to be worn again.<br /><br />It’s a dress code that takes some unpacking, but what is the Costume Institute Gala without a bit of cerebral fashion theory?</div></div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1588524367295624715.post-47011322504004970582024-02-14T17:03:00.000+00:002024-02-14T17:03:09.804+00:00Your Favourite Noughties Model On The Michael Kors RunwayMalgosia Bela is on the runway, the rich and beautiful are crammed cheek by jowl into Barneys, and “No One” by Alicia Keys is playing over the speakers. But this isn’t a pre-financial crisis Manhattan in 2007, it’s New York Fashion Week in 2024, where on Tuesday evening Michael Kors filled the space that used to house the iconic (and now sadly defunct) department store with some of the faces who helped to define fashion in the Noughties.<br /><br />Down the curved spiral staircase came Mariacarla Boscono wearing a grey double-breasted coat, black heels and a slash of red lipstick, followed soon after by Alek Wek in slouchy tailored trousers, Guinevere van Seenus in a belted charcoal suit and the icy blonde Amber Valletta, wearing a leopard-print coat that simultaneously evoked Jackie Kennedy on the Upper East Side and Whitney Houston in the ’90s (a reference picture that was pinned to Kors’s autumn/winter 2024 moodboard).<div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://media.vogue.co.uk/photos/65cc8cda79d3bdccfc621fd5/2:3/w_2560%2Cc_limit/KM-MK14224-GETTYCMP.jpg" width="427" /></div><div><br /></div>“Timeless” was the watchword for the Manhattan designer’s latest collection, a term that could as easily be applied to the beauties gliding along his runway as the nipped-in suit jackets, slinky bias cut dresses and oversized trench coats they were wearing. “One of my hallmarks has always been fashion that stands the test of time,” Kors said. “And when we talk about what’s timeless and what endures – it’s quality, it’s simplicity, it’s sophistication, it’s clothes that make you feel confident and powerful.”<a href="https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/new-york-fashion-week-front-row-aw24"><br /></a><br />There were plenty of confident and powerful Kors fans on the front row to see his polished take on New York classic up close: Blake Lively (“I will always and forever show up for him,” she said of the designer), Katie Holmes, Gabrielle Union, Brie Larson and K-Pop star Dahyun were all there. Among the standout looks on the mirror-lined runway? A double-breasted black jacket paired with a silky slip dress with a split train, inspired by a photograph of the designer’s grandparents on their wedding day in the 1930s. “There was such a simplicity to it, so chic,” he told Vogue’s Nicole Phelps, before adding: “I started thinking about what endures.”</div><div><br /></div>FASHIONmode Newshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14337583871846524422noreply@blogger.com0