Thursday, February 8, 2018

What To Expect From The Autumn/Winter 2018 Shows At New York Fashion Week

If what-to-expect lists usually read like a string of news, the one that’s about to unfold reads more like a what-not-to-expect. It should tell you something about the winds of change blowing through the fashion system right now. Last season’s New York Fashion Week was marked by the departures of Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra and Thom Browne, who moved their presentations to Paris. Yet there were still surprises in store: 

Rihanna’s Fenty x Puma show received rave reviews, and Ralph Lauren hosted his show in his Bedford garage for a decidedly personal touch to the schedule. But for autumn/winter 2018, even more designers are abandoning the schedule, and only two are visiting from out of town. If the seven days of women’s shows (and three days of men’s shows that precede them) are anything to go by, it’s not the beginning of the end just yet, but this season ‘what to expect’ definitely has a different ring to it.


Celebrating the opening of his sprawling Madison Avenue store, Tomas Maier is relocating his co-ed Bottega Veneta show from Milan to New York for one season only. The move makes sense for the house. Maier’s ateliers are based out of New York, and recent collections have breathed a younger, fresher air into the house, which connects well with a transition to New York Fashion Week, even if it’s only temporary. The show takes place on February 9th at 8pm EST at the American Stock Exchange.

Joining the arrivals is Esteban Cortazar, who is going against the stream of designer emigrants, moving his show from Paris to New York.


Following last season’s departures, Alexander Wang – who staged several huge street parties in September – is set to present his final show on the official schedule on Saturday evening before going rogue with plans of showing in June and December.

There’s no Fenty x Puma show, Delpozo is moving to London, and Tome are packing their bags for Paris, joining the ongoing exodus.


In the wake of filing for divorce from Harvey Weinstein, Georgina Chapman has cancelled her Marchesa show in favour of a different format to be confirmed.

Lastly, in bad news for New York but good news for London, this season marks Victoria Beckham’s last show in the city this year. Come her tenth anniversary show in September, the British designer is relocating to London Fashion Week.

Some of fashion’s biggest show magnets are staying put: Raf Simons isn’t just showing his third collection for Calvin Klein this season but keeping his eponymous brand on the New York menswear schedule.

Tom Ford follows troop with two separate men’s and women’s shows three days apart. And true to tradition, Marc Jacobs – whose last collection featured on the cover of the first #NewVogue in December – is closing the ball. Coach, Michael Kors, Oscar de la Renta, and Philipp Plein are still waving the establishment flag in New York, while newcomers such as Matthew Adams Dolan and Eckhaus Latta are bringing all-important emerging-designer energy to the table.

For those of us who went to January’s men’s shows it was clear: the fashion system is in rapid evolution and every brand – whether menswear, womenswear or both – is forced to rethink its show and sales cycle.

The changes happening in New York only reflect the mottled show schedules in Europe where co-ed presentations are now confusingly spread out over the men’s and women’s weeks, and ready-to-wear designers have infiltrated the haute couture schedule. Why don’t we just merge it all, you ask? There are simply too many designers and too little time. But as the upcoming New York season will prove, the shows must go on.

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