Thursday, November 16, 2017

What The First Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show Was Like

In 1995, a mid-market lingerie brand based in Ohio decided to host a fashion show. Staged in New York’s plush Plaza Hotel, some of the biggest supermodels of the time - Stephanie Seymour, Veronica Webb and Beverly Peele - were recruited to walk.

Models wore modest bias-cut slips, cheongsams and bralettes on the runway, accessorised with cardigans, prim handbags and plaid dressing gowns – wearable, yes, but lacking a certain razzle-dazzle. There were no TV cameras, no musical performances, and certainly no wings. Some model castings were done over the phone. A few hundred people saw it, and virtually none of the journalists in the room chose to cover it.

Fast-forward 22 years and the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show has changed almost beyond recognition. The TV broadcast is watched by a global audience of millions, accompanied by live performances from the world’s biggest pop stars – Taylor Swift and Lady Gaga among them. Models undergo months of rigorous training, donning expensive, elaborately constructed outfits that can weigh upwards of 30 pounds.

But the first show, masterminded by Victoria’s Secret executives Ed Razek and Monica Mitro, gave a glimpse of what the modern fashion show was to become. Celebrities – including Donald Trump and Russell Simmons – dotted the front row at a time when the prime seats were reserved solely for editors and models dominated the covers of magazines. Victoria’s Secret understood the power of celebrity in fashion well before the fashion industry itself did.


Below, six attendees of the original Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show tell us what it was like.

Catherine McCord

Then: Model
Now: Chef and entrepreneur

“I remember the fittings, Ed [Razek] was there and so was Monica [Mitro]. I was totally nervous – oh my god! You forget that back then it was all about print, and the Victoria’s Secret catalogue was everything. Back then, you were either a runway and magazine model, or you were catalogue, but somehow Victoria’s Secret was able to break that boundary. I don’t think the show prep was intense in the way it is now, but I do remember doing lymphatic drainage, and having lots of leg massages. It’s comical when you look back at the photos – we were almost fully dressed. There were cardigans! Even so, I did feel scantily clad. I’d done shows in London, Milan and Paris, but I remember getting to the end of the runway and suddenly feeling self-conscious because the atmosphere was different. It was more a mix of normal people and journalists. I’m sure I remember seeing Donald Trump in the audience. Models didn’t have publicists, we were just throwing off our clothes, we were naked – I’m on the more conservative side, and I don’t think any of us thought twice about it.”

Ron Galella

Then: Paparazzo
Now: Retired

“I didn’t pay much attention to the audience – I couldn’t stop looking at the models. The models were the heroines. I know some of the models were nervous, but they never showed it, they were so graceful on the runway. Today they go overboard with the costumes; they have wings, they have gimmicks. In 1995 they didn’t have all that: the models were the main event. I think that something got lost; to me the first show was best. If you have Stephanie Seymour on the runway, what more do you need?”

Veronica Webb

Then: Model
Now: Model, writer and founder of Webb On The Fly

“I was lucky, my casting was a phone call from my agency saying, ‘Go to your fitting for the show’. [Victoria’s Secret Executive Vice President] Monica Mitro is one of the nicest people you’ll ever want to meet and she supervised every fitting personally. I had this white corset with white stockings and suspenders and white high heels.I think I did nearly 1,000 squats the week before and went on a ketogenic diet to reduce bloat. You’re in your underwear so it’s all about your body and how strong and healthy you are — there’s nowhere to hide a single body flaw. It was a great exercise in overcoming fear and self-consciousness. But it is a show like no other. It was a big, glam pyjama party with all your besties sharing the spotlight.”

Gail Elliott

Then: Model
Now: Designer and founder, Little Joe Woman by Gail Elliott

“I walked thousands of runways for 24 years and the two I remember are the first Victoria’s Secret show and Gianni Versace’s ‘Freedom’ show. Back then, backstage was almost as exciting as the shows. Champagne would be flowing and all the models' boyfriends – who were actors, movie stars, rock stars, musicians and screenwriters – were photographed having fun. I don’t remember it being stressful or feeling nervous, although I guess doing a show in my underwear should have been. I probably wore less clothing at Versace shows! During the show there were a lot of wolf whistles from the audience. The audience wasn’t there to buy: Victoria’s Secret’s vision for the show was different and they’ve certainly kept it up today with the Angels, pink planes and mega hype. It’s a clever company.”

Holly Brubach

Then: Style Editor, New York Times Magazine
Now: Author and screenwriter

“I have only the dimmest memory of that first show at the Plaza. It doesn’t surprise me that there wasn’t much coverage back then. I do recall that most members of the fashion press regarded it as not ‘legitimate’ in terms of design and trends, more of a mall brand. Which it was. But I thought it was such an interesting phenomenon, and I’m not surprised that it has been such a big media success. I think of it as being in the same category as the Sports Illustratedswimsuit issue—something that gets a lot of attention and builds a ‘halo’ around the brand. The product is sort of beside the point.”

Ingrid Seynhaeve

Then: Model
Now: Founder of June 7.2

“I was very proud to be opening the show. It was quite nerve-wracking, as we were in lingerie and I was used to the couture and high fashion shows like Valentino, Ralph Lauren and Dior. You have to walk in a sexy way, playing with the camera, feeling — and looking — like a million dollars with not much on. But it was a fun change to have eye contact with the public and cameras, and to make a statement at the end of the runway. The show grew bigger and bigger each year, I think I must have walked the show five times. It helped with our day rates and became the most prestigious show to do. It gave me a voice as a model afterwards as so many people saw me in interviews on TV.”

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