Thursday, September 14, 2017

How Coach Became New York’s Ultimate Millennial Brand

Over the past four years, Coach, the heritage American accessories house has re-cast itself as a beacon of millennial taste. Under the direction of dynamic CEO Victor Luis and Brit-born bag king Stuart Vevers, the brand has transformed its fortunes. Coach, which is 76 years old, is now riding high with a legion of young fans and sales that are on track to reach $5.9 billion for 2017. Vogue caught up with Vevers before his spring/summer 2018 show to gain some insight on what he's doing right.

First he says, choose your muses wisely. When Vevers joined the brand in 2013, he made a conscious decision to take Coach to a younger audience, but he didn’t just do that with product rooted in American nostalgia (prairie dresses and varsity jackets) - he did it with people, making clever choices about who his gang of "Coach Gurls" would be.

Women like Hari Nef, Winnie Harlow and Chloe Moretz were all more than pretty faces, they had something to say and they connected to their generation. “It’s not just the people we choose, it’s their communities and their people,” says Vevers. “It has to be authentic, it has to be natural.”

Coach gets involved with its muses, and recently co-hosted campaign girl Adwoa Aboah’s Gurls Talk festival of female empowerment in London. It's not just the price points that are democratic. "It’s really interesting seeing a Facebook thread talking about the Coach casting. Our campaign last season was seen as one of the most diverse. It’s great and it resonates," says Vevers.


Next, he took fashion advice from Selena Gomez. Coach signed her to design her own range earlier this year. With 135 million Instagram followers, she is the ultimate millennial sweetheart. An eloquent spokeswoman for issues of mental health and female advocacy, her sassy style is also perfectly in tune with the taste of her generation. Her recently launched Selena Grace bag is already the brand's top seller, so no wonder Vevers listens to her on matters of how her generation want to dress.

“She feeds back what she wants to wear," he says and for SS18 that means plenty of sparkle. "There's loads of shine and glitter, not materials I would always use at Coach but there's something about that exuberance that feels right."

Finally says Vevers, pay attention to the fashion nuances of his target audience. "It's really important to be personal today with your work. I don’t want to get formulaic. I want to be influenced by actual things I see." He's obsessed with how his customers style up their clothes and tells a story of the model Hari Nef who wore a Coach prairie dress to the brand's 75th anniversary show but took the dress off and just wore the slip to the after party. Cue a plethora of slip dresses for SS18, styled with satin bedazzled varsity jackets. They look right, they feel now. Job done.
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