Friday, September 8, 2017

Couture Techniques With a Modern Approach: Inside Ermanno Scervino

The Tuscan hills have long been a breeding ground for Italy’s fashion industry and one of the hallowed factories that lies nestled amongst rolling vineyards and postcard-perfect towns belongs to Ermanno Scervino. A place that sees three generations work shoulder-to-shoulder, creating collections that blur the lines between haute couture and ready-to-wear.

While the world finds itself in a tough economic situation, it's Ermanno Scervino is a business thriving. “2016 closed in a really positive manner, with a sales volume of €100 million,” Ermanno S”, Mr Ermanno Scervino, creative director, tells us in his sizable office-cum-atelier that houses an impressive collection of art, tomes and the new collection. “The achievement of such results is extremely satisfactory for us, considering the general context of great difficulty for the luxury market and the persistent instability of the international economic scenario."


This business success is the result of a formula that customers – particularly those who choose all-out glamour – appreciate and are keen to buy into, according to the designer. Everything is made in Italy, a business decision that has become intrinsic. “It’s fundamental. Made in Italy means the excellence of materials, cuts, design and know-how in manufacturing,” enthused Scervino. “The product is then charismatic and has an energy that differentiates from any other in the world.”

However, Scervino and his highly skilled employees are conscious that while these hand-crafted approaches are for the best, they need now need to be developed in a modern way. “We have to be careful not to fall into easy nostalgia. My will is to translate this excellence into modern language, combining the values of sartorial tradition with glamour.”


While the brand does centre the design on bespoke craftsmanship, it’s also done with a forward gaze on the latest technologies and design practices. For Scervino, this is the way that the brand can stay relevant especially in an over-crowded market. “Nowadays, the fashion world has an almost infinite proposal, women have any kind of dress in their wardrobe. You must therefore be not only current, but even a step forward, projected to the future, in order to offer women clothes a moment before they desire them."

As the sales volumes reveal, this approach is working both on and off the red carpet. Lookback several months ago and Ermanno Scervino was one of the most worn designers at the Cannes Film Festival. Answering the call to the events that call for high-octane opulence, the signature lace gowns were worn by fashion darlings Sara Sampaio, Lottie Moss, Martha Hunt and Jasmine Sanders.

Getting bright young things to wear his gowns is one thing, but getting younger people to work in the ateliers – especially those located in rural towns – proves a more challenging task. “It’s difficult, yes, but not impossible. Fortunately, there are many girls who come out of school and want to come to work in my atelier. In a global economic crisis, I hire, which shows how the industry is flourishing. For us then it is very important to have young people working in the atelier, because they bring ideas, modernity and technological skills.”


 As for the focus that has been placed on shifting show schedules, it’s interesting to consider how Ermanno Scervino – a ready-to-wear brand that holds couture techniques at the forefront of their practice – finds the demanding timetable. “The world of fashion has today frenzied rhythms, one presents a collection, and immediately has to start working for the next one, which will be presented in five months,” shared the designer. “This is one of the hardest problems that designers have: they have not only to stimulate continuously their creative part, but also have to adapt to the times and needs of marketing.”

“My ready-to-wear is almost haute couture, because this is the norm with which I work in my atelier,” Scervino continued. “Our garments are not suffering from industrialisation. They are unique, obtainable only by couture, handmade manufacturing. This allows me to create something new every season, such as the millefoglie lace, a plissé work so difficult to obtain that I almost gave up. It took months and months of tests and experiments with my toiles before getting the desired result, but it was worth it.”

Looking to the future, there is much to be conquered: more stores, more unique techniques and red-carpet gowns, looking to create a greater global presence. “We are working on many projects, in particular to consolidate our visibility at the international level. In these years, we have reached an important position. In 2017, we have the determination to consolidate and expand. On the creative side, my goal is to continue to dress the most beautiful women in the world, enhancing their beauty and femininity.”


Amal Clooney in Ermanno Scervino. "This plumetis bustier on a base of impalpable tulle fully exalts her femininity and her elegant and refined sensuality", the creative director shares. "Amal is an extremely contemporary woman: beautiful, with an innate grace, but also committed and profoundly passionate about her job as a lawyer. This dress is therefore generally suitable of for all women with a strong personality, who must be free to express their beauty during a cocktail or a special evening as well, not just on a red carpet."

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