Tuesday, July 4, 2017

Maria Grazia Chiuri On Dior's Fashion Story

Since her appointment as artistic director of Christian Dior last summer (not to mention her previous two decades of design success at Valentino), Maria Grazia Chiuri has been propelled to the very top of the fashion pile - perplexing, therefore, to think that the Italian-born designer can recall a time when she questioned her employability.

"Honestly, I am doing more than I ever imagined doing in my life!" the designer laughed post-couture show in Paris yesterday, fresh from delivering another chapter in the storied house's tale. "When I started to work and study fashion at 20-years-old, I never even thought I would have a job! To stop here would be enough."

Let's hope not, as Chiuri has more to write into Dior's history - the fruits of which form the 70th anniversary exhibition everyone is talking about, Christian Dior, Designer of Dreams, and which Paris's finest gathered in the gardens of Les Arts Decoratifs last night to celebrate in splendid style. It's a heritage that Chiuri has drawn on from day one.

"When I first arrived at Dior and did my first pret-a-porter show, I immediately decided to be a curator of its history," she explained. "But for this most recent collection, because of this special occasion when we have the exposition, I decided to concentrate my attention on Mr Dior's work - not only because he was the founder and he made the DNA of the brand, but because thanks to the exhibition I went into the archives a lot and found an unbelievable map that spoke about Dior’s work in 1953. 

Immediately it was evident that he was already building a worldwide brand and that fascinated me a lot, so I tried to make my personal map about Mr Dior's references for this show, choosing dresses from the archive that made me feel emotion to translate with my point of view."When I first arrived at Dior, I immediately decided to be a curator of its history

Relaxed and refreshing, Chiuri is a designer who is happy to acknowledge the successes of her predecessors and is keen to point out why the largest retrospective of Christian Dior - the brand - to date, has come at an apt time, as she reinvents the house's aesthetic once again.


"I think the main thing about Dior, is that it's like a puzzle of all these huge designers that worked at the house and what is beautiful in the exhibition is that you understand the time and history," she said. "I think it shows that the house has always chosen the right designer for the moment. After Mr Dior there was Yves Saint Laurent, who started to speak about women in a different way. After Saint Laurent, there was Marc Bohan, who moved the house very well between the Sixties and Seventies. Then when you see Gianfranco Ferre, who I remember very well, it is evident that he started pret-a-porter in Italy – he changed the communcation about fashion. 

Also with John Galliano, his was a point of view from English guys who look to Paris - for example his references to Versailles, they're not present in Dior’s legacy, but Mr Dior's relationship with England and English designers is a very strong vein. With Raf Simons, it was another moment in time for the fashion world, just a little bit more intellectual, and so probably with me, it’s a moment to speak about women in a different way. It’s a huge responsibility to speak about women, but I try to do my best."With Raf Simons, it was another moment in time for the fashion world, just a little bit more intellectual

Being a luxury fashion designer in 2017 is, for some, a perilous moment with schedules changing, world economies in flux and the collective consumer's need for speed biting at the heels of the slow-fashion movement. But, for a house like Dior, Chiuri believes that it comes down to adhering to its established codes.

"Luxury fashion houses need to maintain a code of quality, craftsmanship and knowledge," she explained. "Luxury is not necessarily expensive. Luxury for me is something to take care of, so of course with couture it's one of a kind, but it’s not expensive because it’s just expensive, it’s expensive because you need many hours to produce a dress with many women who work on it for hours every day – but luxury can also be a T-shirt, when it is made with expertise and the best cut. Luxury is not only clothes with price but also value and the human touch. Luxury is when you can feel the creativity."

Guests at the exhibition's opening soireé can attest to the palpability of the brand's creativity, surely the strongest compliment of all after 70 years. As Chiuri said herself: "Fashion is emotional, it's story."

Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams, sponsored by Maison Swarovski, is showing at Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris, from July 5 2017 to January 7 2018.

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